Timbo

WHP vs BHP?

You could buy an entire Mk3 VR6 for that!

Well my bank account is 230 quid lighter, so I assume they've put the order in.

So I had my VR6 sitting for a while as I did some welding on it. I hadn't started it for about 3-4 months. Symptoms: When cold it took ~20 seconds before it started.[/*:m:3o12wqu5] Rough idle, misfire and hunting[/*:m:3o12wqu5] Black smoke/soot from the exhaust, especially on overrun[/*:m:3o12wqu5] If left for at most a few hours and started again, it started straight away[/*:m:3o12wqu5] Idle fuel pressure normal at 3.5 bar, rising to 4 bar with throttle[/*:m:3o12wqu5] After stopping engine, fuel pressure dropped to just under 3 bar after 10 minutes (which accordingly to Bentley is fine)[/*:m:3o12wqu5] Number 6 plug wet with fuel, all other plugs very sooty[/*:m:3o12wqu5] The cause? Number 6 fuel injector was intermittently sticking open. I rigged up some cheap injector cleaning apparatus like and after a wee while I had the injector behaving again. I also used an ultrasonic cleaner on the injectors and got a lot of crap off them, though I suspect this was mainly from the exterior as opposed to the internals. After I got it all back together, changed sparks and leads, it starts immediately and idles more smoothly than it ever has before. I'm still getting a little soot out of the back but I'm hoping this is just the contents of the exhaust and it'll clear eventually. The car has no MOT and I have a few more jobs to do on it so I haven't had a chance to give it a good run on the road yet, but I'm optimistic. Since I'm a curious little rhino, I also decided to do the fuel pressure test again. After stopping the engine this time, the pressure doesn't drop at all after 10 minutes. In fact it goes up a little bit, I'm assuming because various things cool and the volume of the fuel system decreases slightly. If I come back after 24 hours, the pressure has still barely dropped. So either the test in Bentley is bunk (remember, my engine passed it, despite fuel pissing into one of the cylinders), or it's based on a different fuel system that allows some pressure loss back into the tank. Anyway, just thought I'd post this incase any body has a similar problem; I didn't come up with anything obvious by searching.

If you're gonna be making manifold jigs and tacking up manifolds then I would just get a MIG welder and some stainless wire for the tacks. TIG is overkill unless you're gonna weld the manifold up yourself. Yeah you need gas; the IG part is inert gas. When you weld in oxygen the metal oxidises as it melts which makes for weak welds and tricky welding control. By blasting a cone of inert gas (usually some mixture of argon and carbon dioxide) over the weld, the oxidisation is minimised. Enthusiast MIG welders take little 60/110 litre bottles of the gas, which are pretty uneconomical for doing a lot of welding. They can easily be converted to use larger industrial sized bottles though. When professional welders make manifolds they do what's called "back purge" with gas, meaning to force the welding gas through the back of the manifold they're making rather than or in addition to the gas that comes from the welding torch. This ensures the back face of the weld (the inside of the tubing) ends up good. I'd love to have a shot at welding up a manifold some time, though. My skills/budget/equipment at the moment are limited to MIG unfortunately. A nicely TIGed manifold is really a work of art; beautiful. Good luck :salute:.

Alright, I've signed up on the condition that the updated price dan gave us is the one we'll pay. It's a bit of a scunner that this isn't the original deal but on the other hand it's still a significant saving. My current hoses aren't going to last forever, OEM ones aren't going to be any cheaper, if at all, and I doubt a deal like this is going to come around again any time soon, even if it isn't as sweet as it seemed originally. Stupid inanimate object sucking my wallet dry :(. (You know, they're probably watching this thread ;). Hi guys :wave:.)

I want stainless steel body panels :(. And no, not a Delorean.

Yep, I'm not putting any money down until we have a firmer idea of what we're paying.

Perhaps you could suggest they split the difference between their original quote and the latest one i.e. halfway between 255.25 and 289.91, so 272.58 ish. Minus 30% = 190.80. I reckon most folk would be happy with that?

The Samco price list lists the RHD Corrado VR6 at 246.73. Add VAT and you get 289.91. Take 30% off this and you get 202.93, which is what they're now asking. So that all makes sense. What doesn't make sense is that they're not charging the inc VAT price if you buy off ebay, which means they're either being naughty with regards to Mr. tax man, or they're confused about the Samco price list and undercharging. Anyway... If you take the RHD Golf VR6 price of 217.24 and add VAT, you get 255.25, which is what they originally quoted. So it looks to me like they've just made an arse of things and quoted for the wrong kit in the first place! I guess you could argue that the whole group buy thing came about on the back of that quote and they should honour it, but it's hardly legally binding. It's a bit disappointing that they didn't acknowledge their error though. Trying to put it down to VAT quite literally doesn't add up... If they're not going to budge on the new price I'm also going to give it a bit of thought :(. I'll let Miss Marple get to bed now.

I think I would be inclined to drill a wee hole through the plastic and the rod, then put a pin/rivet through it. For peace of mind if nothing else.

Maybe worth getting the thread moved to the main group buy sub-forum would help attract more interest, if it's needed?

I'll have a set (VR6, black, with clips) but only if we manage to get 10 folk wanting them.

Did you by any chance resolve this? I'm having similar problems at the moment and suspect some combination of fuel pump/pressure regulator. In my case it's possibly self inflicted as I've had the tank off to do a bit of welding, which meant disconnecting the fuel pump for a while. At the same time I cleaned the fuel tank of 16 years of crud and of course the fuel pump was drained as I had to take it out of the tank. Inevitably I introduced some air into my fuel lines but I would have thought this would be self bleeding to an extent?

http://www.bbc.co.uk/newsbeat/11071047

http://www.autoevolution.com/news/turbocharged-engines-in-formula-one-18108.html

I had a little nosey at your car when it was parked up in Morningside. It looked pretty mint before being sprayed to be honest with you :). I take it you're back on the west coast now?

I'm still holding out for the buy-an-early-to-mid-nineties-sports-coupe-for-a-grand challenge :wink:.

I have a TOAD Ai606 fitted to my car which has recently developed a tendency to randomly go off. On page 8 of the installation manual it explains how to put the unit into "test mode" in order that you test each of the alarm triggers and indicate the last trigger cause. Try as I might, I can't get the alarm to enter this mode. The instructions say: * Turn the ignition "on", then "off", "on" then "off, then turn and leave the ignition "on". * The LED will illuminate * Press and hold buttons 1 and 2 together for three seconds. The siren will emit a small chirp when in Test Mode. After the first step, the LED starts flashing rapidly, red. Once I press and hold buttons 1 and 2, the indicators flash, and it seems like the alarm has entered valet mode, not test mode. So what am I doing wrong here? Interestingly, I note that the ignition sequence to enter test mode is apparently identical to the one used to enter programming mode. Indeed, the alarm flashing rapidly is what the instructions for programming mode suggest it should do. Programming mode works fine and I have changed various alarm settings, so there is no problem there, but entering test mode is eluding me. It's strange that the ignition sequence to enter programming mode and test mode is the same - is this a case of a misprint in the manual perhaps? Probably a long shot posting this here, but has anyone got any suggestions? Thanks.

With removing the ignition switch it helps if you replace the screw with a small allen screw; 1-2mm. It's then really easy to remove and replace just using a ball-end allen key. Obviously this won't help getting it out in the first place though :). Alternatively/additionally you can get the sheer bolts off really easily using Irwins. You can then take the ignition barrel off the steering column altogether and the ignition switch is easy to remove. Obviously you need to replace the sheer bolts with cap screws or similar though.

I like the new Polo... and it'll give a VR6 Corrado a run for its money in a straight line .

Yeah, seen it. It's a bit crap though really isn't it? And no one really uses it.

Random thought: has anyone ever thought about setting up a Corrado or VW IRC channel?

That's proper rubbish. Hopefully you'll get a sensible offer for it.

I actually really like the MK2 TT.