officejunkie

might have already looked at this, but felt like trying to help you anyway. you have checked for boost leaks right? Also have you made sure that the ecu to throttle body hose is exactly 1meter long? if its not that will give it a missfire / hesitation.

I have called this guy up once after some parts and found him to be a bit grumpy as well. He should be happy having so many corrados lol

I dont want to flame but goodness me... no matter what you did to the G60 it could never keep up with a twin turbo Supra. its in a completely different league, esp as most of them get 400hp just from a few bolt ons - dont believe me then research! Even the internals are safe up to 600hp, try increasing the power fo the G60 by x3 and see if it lasts a trip roudn the block. You know sometimes I wonder why people who drive euro boxes like we do give no respect to the jap cars. My last totally bone stock rx7 TT did a 13.8 @102 quarter in full street trim (subs /amps /lots of random crap in the car ), and i did that time with no experience after only owning the car for about a week. If we went head to head on a track then it would annialate pretty much any FWD VW has to offer nevermind the poxy 8v. Jap cars are ace, you cant deny it for what you get. you can buy a mint teggy type R for 5k which will prolly break down less and have far less issues than equivelent cost 'rado. EXACTLY - at least someone made sense! Use the corrado for what it is, a fun to drive cult classic.

It functions absolutly spot on. The panel still clips onto the mech at the back but could do with being stuck on better at the front tbh. The only difference is that the mk3 sunroof doesnt have the lifting mech for the interior flap when you want to tilt it up. Easy solved by sticking the flap to the metal sunroof panel! lol. Pics, mate they look exactly the same, even the bolt holes line up and the panel fits exactly bang on, Its absolutly chucked it down today and theres no sign of any leaks either. Im sooo bad for not taking pics, but it was difficult balancing the sunroof on my head and putting the bolts in to take pics!

Hey guys. Finally got round to this job. OK so i decided that i wasnt going to pay a specialist corrado seller/breaker £100+vat+delivery for a second hand corrado sunroof which will probably die in a few operations (anyway the guy suggested that it was a bargain as dealers charge £500!), Not bargain enough for me mate! So I went to my nearest breakers and scored myself a sunroof from a mk3 golf gti for only £30. Of course i bought it thinking that it would fit straight in but unfortunatley i find out later by reading this forum that the glass is too curved and will catch on the roof. Well all is not lost as you can actually use the mk3 sunroof mech as it bolts right in! I dont have any pics because when im working on the car i always forget to take pics. I reused my old sunroof motor as my G60 is pre facelift and the wires are different. The following procedure is a relatively simple one and if you manage to get your headlining off then this shouldn't be too hard either. So get your old sunroof mech out. 1. Swap the glass panel on the mk3 roof with the metal one, 2. Remove the mk3 interior panel and swap in your corrado one. (Theres a stopper on each side and a cap on the end of the rail). 3. Bolt the mech into the roof. Change the motors over if you have to. 4. Get some sticky back velcro strips and then stick the flappy bit onto the metal roof panel. You must tilt the sunroof up to do this, (Note this was a bit of a temporary solution till i can figure out a better method, seems to be holding just fine for the moment) 5. Replace the headlining. 6. Jobs a good un.

you should try going to a jap meet - you see sooo many subarus and I guarantee that most of them are wearing the bloody blue rally jacket.

Steveo, How many miles you done since replacing your shells? Im thinking your right you know. cos after a good look on VWvortex (sorry lads i really should have dug a bit deeper there, but still makes good sense to have this info here as well) apparantly the bently manual says the following So i think i will reuse my bolts one more time and then scratch/mark them so that if I need to look under there again I know they have been reused once already. I know its always good to replace them but this means totally taking my engine apart and thats not an option at the minute. One day I will want to fully rebuild my engine... I have a friend who has done this job on his engine (a toyota MR2 Turbo) he reused his bolts and hes gone 50K without a problem.. BTW I couldnt get the PDF files from that russian site to work. I suppose I could get this info from Autodata.

Thanks for the replys so far lads. Much appreciated! I was reading this walkthrough here I found while scratching around on Google. http://mysite.verizon.net/janvdb/vw/Eng ... _Swap.html he says that you will need to replace the bolts as the stock ones are stretch type and cannot be re-used? He then goes on to say that the bolts can be removed by tapping them with a small hammer lots of times. I'm not convinced the new bolts will go in without taking the whole engine apart as i'm sure as that new bolts would need pressing in? can anyone confirm that? My car has only done 78K - this shouldn't be happening!! :roll:

HI guys - This :censored: car is starting to treat me to all sorts of problems. Last night i had the stereo off and while at the lights I hear a rattle - only occurs between 2-3000 rpm. So I do a search - the symptoms all point to my big end bearings. Fantastic - another weekend covered in oil!! So anyway I been looking around everywhere and i know how to change them but I need to know the following little tit bits of info. If you guys could help me that would be great. Are GSF a good source for these bearings? - Will they be made of cheese like the originals? if GSF are good for them, what part number is it? They dont seem to list any engine parts for the corrado? - I do know i need ones with an oil hole in them.. Also I thought - while im in there - why dont i change the conrod bolts for something more decent!! So i look around on the the tinterwebnet and ARP do a set - However - most of the time ARP require you to press a pin in to there and then tighten with a nut - with ARP botls for the G60 - are these the type that need pressing in? or is it a simple BOLT bolt? and finally how much torque do these conrod bolts require?

I did this job on the weekend it was a bit of a 'mare when i got to the front suspension. im trying to be quick with this walk through so try to use common sense. Its not a really hard job - just a pain. Ok lets see - you will require some extra tools for this job. 17mm, 19mm 22mm and an 18mm spanner / socket and ratchet. Breaker bar - or as i did a 6ft scaffolding pole. Special suspension dismantler socket - this is used for the front only. £8.00 from GSF a 7mm allen key - most sets come with a 6 and an 8 but NO 7 - why is that!! :censored: A 22mm 02 sensor bung removal tool - it has a big slot in it that allows you to remove the top nut while holding the shock shaft with an allen key.. Spring clamps Buy new top mount bushes for the rear and new top mounts for the front (you may as well as you dont ever want to take the suspension off again if you can help it!) Ok if like me you bought coilovers you need to make sure that both the rears and the fronts are all built up and adjusted to the same level - i always do this part first for some reason. If they came with instructions =- always handy to read these. lets start with the rears, this is easy as its a very simple arrangement. Take out your rear shelf and put the back seats down. Remove the rear shelf supports - there are four 8mm bolts holding this on and a crosshead screw. Now you will have access to the top of the rear shocks. take the caps off. Crack the wheel nuts loose Jack BOTH sides of the car up and support the car with axel stands - this will make your life much more simple trust me. Take the wheels off. Now take a good look at how the suspension is fitted - its simply held on by two nuts one at the bottom and one at the top. Spray copious amounts of WD40 or similar on the nut at the bottom - and dont forget to spray inside the rear axle where the bolt goes through. - remember both sides. Have a minute to let it soak. Choose a side and attach the spring clamps on to the spring, no need to do them up too tight! just enough to give the spring some tension. Undo the bottom bolt with a 17mm (i think!) now go to the top of the rear suspension and remove the top nut. remember which order things came off. renew any old bushings. Get the new suspension fit the bushes onto it and then place into final position. and do the suspension bolts up nice and tight. Same thing other side. the reason why this was so easy to remove is that both sides were hanging down thus giving you just enough room to remove the suspension!! Ok once you have done the rears then its time to move onto the fronts. Now prepare your self for war here, the fronts are a little more difficult. crack wheel nuts - jack up and axel stands - remove wheel - spray bottom two bolts with plenty of wd40. get an 19mm socket - preferable a impact gun socket! and your decent ratchet / breaker bar. slide the scaffolding pole over the end and then give her some basterd. When i did mine i was able to swing on the end of the scaffolding pole. once it starts moving put the 18mm spanner on the nut and then use all your human strength to undo the bolt. Undo the other one with the same method but leave the bolt in for now. Now to undo the top nut - Get your 02 sensor removal tool, and the 7mm allen key - the allen key must go in first and then you should be able to hold the shock shaft while turning the 22mm o2 bung. This takes a little patience. God help you if he-man also did this nut - it wasnt too bad on mine. Now you will take off the top plate and the nut you will see a nut with two grooves cut into it - here you use the special socket to remove it that you got from GSF / similar.. put the spring clamps on to hold tensoin of the spring. now undo this slotted nut - the shock should sink to the bottom of its travel (if its not too knackered!) Now the key to removal is to undo the bolt and then hold the spring and then slide out the shock into the space between the driveshaft and the wishbone. This will allow you to separate the spring and shock and remove them both. Get your new /old top mount undo the top nut on the new suspension, place the top mount on and then fix on the slotted nut till its nice and tight. now offer up the suspension to the turret and place the top nut on. You can jack up the bottom of the disk to meet the bolt holes and put the bolt through. Now as they say fitting is the reverse of removal. -- do the same as the other side. now you have it all fitted and everything is on nice and tight its time to start the adjustments. i got a tape measure and counted the amount of distance between the bottom platform locking ring and the bottom of the threads and made sure both were the same distance. Put the wheels on drop it down see how it sits, the spring perch needs to be lower to go lower and higher to go higher. get your desired drop but always make sure your springs have some tension and dont rattle loosely. If you get stuck with any of this - post up.

Ah bang on - thanks for the reply!! my fault really like an idiot i didnt do a search on the mk3 sunroof, cos i went to the scrappers and they are both so similar its uncanny! Regards Nas

looks like ill be finding out the hard way! ill let you guys know how i got on after the weekend - hopefully its going to be nice n sunny on Sunday.

if your going to take fuel pipes off, start the car and then pull the fuel pump fuse wait till it stops running and then give the engine a few more cranks to get the rest of the fuel out of the rail. this should take the pressure out of the fuel system, so when you take the pipe off it wont spurt out everywhere! Your still going to get some petrol spill though so be ready with a cup or something.

Hi guys - im a firm believer in searching - i read 11 pages worth of threads and couldnt find a definative answer. ive got here a mk3 golf sunroof and the chassis for it looks dead similar to the corrado sunroof. I know i cant fit it as the glass bulges. My idea is this - could i take the moonroof panel off and then put my original metal one on? Or can i take the mech off it and use that on my original sunroof chassis? anyone had a go at this? Thanks in advance for any answers.

haha yeah once you done this job and if it ever needs doing again - set the car on fire!!!

I bought the top doller pro kit 200+ piece and a set of screwdrivers - they had an offer on it was 99 pounds instead of 200 although i think they have put the prices up now.. Im really chuffed with it - its got everything you will probably need. Always buy your tools once, and take good care of them and make sure that you keep them nice and tidy. In the long run you wont be scratching around looking for the odd socket you desperatly need.

my brother in law is mortified more than me. he works as a manager in the testing department for a company that supplies a few major manufacturers with switches, They have to pass a validation test. For example in this case on an ignition switch they have to do the following :- The simulate a million turns of the key in temperatures ranging from proper cold as and then another million times in really hot as conditions! They rattle and roll, and etc. He says that the company that supplied these igntion switches didnt test them properly. Clearly lol.

I went for the G60... im defo a guy that likes it "boosted". try all the models out..

you'd never know!! nice job - looks like the paint matches great too which is always a worry on older paint.

DAMN YOU!!! who ever designed the ignition switch that wears out, and is an absolute pain (obviously i know its secure) needs a slap. damnit!! its the stuff which makes you want to hit the car with a branch. goodness me what an absolute nightmare job, It wasnt so bad on the mk2 polo i used to have, i didnt care if i broke that lol. But bloody hell i sacrificed three screw drivers bending them to get that bloody screw out. :bad-words: :censored: I just thought i would share the pain.

I have the triangle and the first aid kit although mine has been opened there doesnt seem to have been anything removed. I had a look inside and to be honest that first aid kit is only good for something like a paper cut :lol:

Yes i did notice that screw, thing is that wasnt touching the tab it pushes against. I think the throttle body may not be closing all the way? Perhaps its worth taking the boost pipe off where it meets the throttle body and giving the butterfly a spray with carb cleaner?

OK today - i went to get my mk3 golf sunroof and found an earth wire on this golf gti that had some round terminals on each end and wasnt too long. SO i attached one end to the post the ECU uses to bolt down to, and one end on the bolt that goes through the firewall which clamps the coil on. This DIDNT work! Still idling at 1250 rpm. Then i fiddled with some hoses. Nope. Looking closely at the throttle body i noticed that at the back of the part which the accerator cable pivots on theres a little tab and next to it theres a microswitch. The tab wasnt touching the microswitch. I then bent the braket holding this tiny little switch towards the firewall. The idle is not 850 RPM dead. NO hunting no messing - 850 rpm exactly!!! :D :D :D :clap: :clap: :clap: This problem was REALLY doing my nut in :brickwall: . Makes you feel proud when you fix something if your a bit of n00b!! :wink:

well from what i read about these cars that theres a lot of general running problems - especially when it comes to idle. I think that theres four main components which cause the problems here. ISV Sensors + grounds Timing Air Leaks after much searching - I found this link http://www.corrado-club.com/faq/detail_faq.CFM?FAQID=16 In a nutshell it basically says to check the grounds especially the one your ECU uses via the bracket and the nut you use to secure it to the chassis..My car never came with no nut securing this ECU to the chassis! I discovered this initally when i refitted my refurbed 'charger changed the pully and changed the chip. I wasnt aware the ECU needed grounding in this way so i thought nothing of it! So heres what im going to do - im going to buy a nut and some sand paper - sand the bracket the ecu sits on till its really clean, not forgetting the points where it bolts to the chassis and then use the nut to clamp it down properly!! I will then adapt a "grounding" kit / make one out of four guage and then fit. Im going to replace every last hose in this car!! I dont want anymore of these annoying problems ever again. If non of this works im checking every sensor with a multimeter and then im going to take it to a specialist to get the timing done. Ill update the thread with what fixed it or if i decide that the car must burn to its death!

hi and thanks for the reply!! yes the idle drops when i unplug the isv or the blue plug or click the microswitch on the top of the throttle body, Ive cleaned the ISV out and it wasnt even that dirty tbh. I checked for leaks and all the hoses look like they are on properly. i think i might end up taking it to someone or perhaps even changing all the hoses for new ones. whats the crack with the standed hose clips? pile of crap!!!