VR6Joni

Mine appears to be about 100degC above yours for all readings other than Full boost which is roughly the same, max I've seen is 930. Do you/anyone else recon I should be looking to get these down a bit? FYI it's a rotrex setup with the EGT probe in one of the lambda holes on the six branch manifold (rear bank one)

Although mine is rotrexed I'm seeing a similar sort of thing, in hot weather cruising at 80 my oil sits at about 100degC, but when an R32 went past it rocketed to about 110degC within about a minute, never used to get that hot that quickley. Although cruising at 60-70 and will drop to about 94-96 degC which it used to be able to manage at 80 easily. Anyone recon its because the charger is permanently generating boost and constantly heating intake air although the boost is not being used just being recirculated???? On a separate note, when the engine is warming up my water seems to lead the way by 15-20degC (all the way up to 100degC) and I can't remember if this was how it was before my rebuild or could my stat be sticking a bit, this is more noticable in traffic but the water temp reading is affected quite a bit when your on the move?????

My bro has a DSG box on his car and has been told that it would be the limiting factor if he was to go for big power without spending big money on it, so I would say stick with the manual box as its easier to fix if anything does go wrong and cheaper to uprate as your bound to want big power otherwise you wouldn't have fitted 4wd. right???? So charge it :D

I wouldn't say properly but it's drivable without killing it too easily. On a few hot days I've noticed it holding back a bit after an extended run until the aquamist kick in, this to me seems very much like detonation occuring :(. I really need to get some logging equipment sorted so I can have a look back at what was happening as it's very difficult to monitor guages and take in what happened during the brief time this happens. I have now reduced the boost level from 8psi to 4psi that the aquamist kicks in so hopefully this will help. I also have a high speed solenoid so will hopefully be able to make it proportional soon. (KV automation sell them if anyone is interested) Anyway Rob, if you aren't able to get the rotrex completely in bits just give us a shout and I can either give you guidance or have a look at it whenever is convenient.

Now it's up and running I thought I'd put a few back together pics up. Just washed before VWFestival. Just Fitted aquamist so its a bit messy, will tidy it all up when I get some conduit or spiral wrap. Running reasonable but definitely in need of more chargecooling, aquamist is doing its job for now though.

I wouldn't like to say, but I did manage to get some 12.5 rated ones from BAPP, for only a few quid. Probably 12.9 actually.^

I've got a matched pair of mintex 312mm plain discs and pads without the brembos, and they are better by a country mile than my 280mm setup (EBC grooved discs and Pagid FR pads), no brake fade witnessed yet. However that tends to creep in with worn discs and pads (which mine aren't yet), also the elimination of the grooved disc grating is nice and pleasant.

Roughly yeah, if I dare take my eyes off the road long enough I can actually see the boost stop building momentarily. I was closely monitoring the AFR's earlier today and found that it seems to jump to being a tad too rich when the aquamist kicks, but I can't seem to explain that one, anyone got any ideas on that one? I would expect it to go leaner when the aquamist kicks in if anything?? And I don't have any meth in there at the moment!

Just thought I'd post my findings on the aquamist system which I fitted last weekend. (thanks black dub) Tapping the washer bottle is a PITA, I ended up plastic welding it to make it double thickness. Bleeding the pump is also not very easy, I tried a head of well over a metre and it was having none of it, tried sucking, blowing, sucking and blowing (don't ask) and eventually had to use a bicycle pump to force the water through. But once its through your off. By this point I was getting worried about running it dry though. Anyway I can tell you that it is most certainly effective, when it kicks in I loose a good 2-3psi (good job the hysteresis on the pressure switch covers that) which can only be put down to the cooling of the charge, I'm working on measuring the temperature so hope to post the results in the coming weeks. And I've not even tried it with methanol yet, that should be interesting as I could see the fear in my mate eyes when we went for a spin to test the system :lol:

Yeah it was rather annoying that little incident. Anyway aquamist is now fitted and I have to admit it must be doing its job well as you actually see the boost drop off by 2-3psi when it kicks in, I'm not sure of the actual charge temperatures but I'm working on that. It is nice to actually see that it is doing something, it gives me that extra boost of confidence to take it one step closer to the limit :D When I tidy the wiring up some pictures will follow.

God darn rotrex oil system sprung a leak the other day, I recon I lost a good 20-30quids worth :( Fixed now but system is a touch low on oil so gonna have to buy another bottle :( :( :( :( at 75 quid a go, beat that for an expensive oil leek. Was my fault though cos I put a cheapo section of pipe in where it stepped from 6mm to 8mm, and the worst thing was it was on my list of things to sort. :epicfail: Couldn't leave it on the drive though :roll:

Over the weekend I took the C out for a few runs and saw 0.6 Bar (8.7psi) at 5K, and though it best to restrain myself at that point. Can anyone else with a Rotrex guestimate what the boost is gonna top out at?

The rotrex outlet does rotate at 60deg intervals so could possibly come out at a nice angle for an intercooler setup which is what made me think of it. I recon the price would be very similar between a PWR charge cooler and standard manifold compared to a short runner and an intercooler, but what would have the best cooling gains between the 2 and as James said earlier would a noticeable amount of charge lag be introduced with the intercooler setup???? (with a rotrex) Answers on a postcard please.

I had seen the PWR setup before and I liked it. Is it possible to sneak a charge pipe around the front of the radiator as that would be a nice cool route to the TB on a short runner or would there not be much of my front end left?

Ok it's just an air to air intercooler would keep pipework relatively short if I was to get a short runner, do you really recon there would be much advantage to the charge cooler, if so I could spent the extra on a PWR cooler and stick with the standard manifold?

By stay water to air do you mean aquamist or the chargecooler setups Kev etc. have on here?

Charge cooling is coming immanently if the form of aquamist, before my ultimate goal of putting a short runner on and running charge air through an intercooler between charger and throttle body in front of rad. How did you find the air to air intercooler James? Just seems good routing for use with rotrex charger. I have not tried dumping to atmosphere as it scuppers my temporary plans to use MAF before charger, long term plan is to go to MAP sensor though. Also not sure on boost cos I've been wimping out until I get my custom process monitor sorted so I can log boost, AFR, EGT and Fuel pressure. I've not gone higher then 0.5bar on a cr@p boost gauge yet though. I think I might try generating a MAF signal from a map sensor and see how that fairs.

Yeah that makes sense, however I don't think allowing this recirculation is doing my inlet temps any good as there is a noticeable difference in boost pipework temperature when I stop the recirculation! Must be due to re compressing the air! So do you recon I should live with the higher temps or try a slightly stronger spring in the DV to retain the pressure until the revs are a touch higher?

Wow, its been quite on here recently!!! Anyway, what are peoples opinions on this! I'm running the Forge diverter valve with my rotrex and just wondering what spring others have used in it? I have found that the yellow spring alone is not strong enough as it's recirculating on tick over, surely it shouldn't do this! So I've disconnected the vacuum line to the DV and am letting it reference atmospheric pressure, this works OK for the time being and gives me the added safety measure of limiting boost as I have no intercooling at the moment :shock: Is this likely to cause any overrun back pressure problems???? Also what temperature is anyone else's Rotrex running at? mine probable ran close to 70 when it was recirculating on tick over (god knows why), however now its probably 50-60 degC??????? I expected them to produce next to no heat, but hence the oil cooler!

I'm running the Forge diverter valve with my rotrex and just wondering what spring others have used in it? I have found that the yellow spring alone is not strong enough as it's recirculating on tick over, surely it shouldn't do this! So I've disconnected the vacuum line to the DV and am letting it reference atmospheric pressure, this works OK for the time being and gives me the added safety measure of limiting boost as I have no intercooling at the moment :shock: Is this likely to cause any overrun back pressure problems???? Also what temperature is anyone else's Rotrex running at? mine probable ran close to 70 when it was recirculating on tick over (god knows why), however now its probably 50-60 degC??????? I expected them to produce next to no heat, but hence the oil cooler!

That makes comical reading for the likes of my small mind :norty: Especially polishing twice before fitting. Mmmm, my pleasure.

Been quite on this front lately so I thought I best put a quick update on. It is now running, however I just could not get the inovate LC-1 to give a stable reading :( :( :( . Anyone else had this problem? I ended up setting the fueling up with an exhaust gas analyser which I fortunately had access to. With 359cc injectors tick over voltage from the MAF needed to be about 0.81V to give a good mixture (with Lambda disconnected). However this was at quite a high tick over rpm (probably due to me confusing he ECU, see how that goes later). Now the next step is getting some management wired up.

I did all the work in my garage, it is quite big though. I got the bracket modified by the machinist at work in his dinner hour, I now owe him a few pints! And I rebuilt the head on a bench I have in the garage, but basically I've done all the work with the bonnet up. Removing the sump is fun when it's inches above your face.

Have a word with Joni re bkts - he's recently hit & resolved all the probs with them. The issue's I had were as follows: Head need's a great chunk grinding out as you probably know. The hole for the tensioner pulley was not quite in the right place. One of the mounting holes was not quite in the right place. The locating pin was a shade too long. I also needed to cut a few screws down. So the equipment you will require is: Lathe. Milling machine. Grinder.

I've got a full shopping list with prices in a spreadsheet if you want, it's on my home PC so can't get it up until later though. I'm now very close so the list should be pretty much complete. If I were you I'd just get one of the charger kits from Storm Developments, they are not perfect but as far as I know its all that's available. And yes the C30-94 is good for 300bhp+, infact it's no good for less that 300bhp as you can't get a big enough pulley on.