VR6Joni

288's any day over standard 280's, 288's can be had dirt cheap, go for it, they are a vast improvement but still cookable when pads are getting thin as ^^^^^

If you look at the vacuum hose for the brake servo, you will see a one way valve with 2 small take off's that are blanked off. This will be just below the main engine loom connector (from memory). You will need to connect the Re-circ valve vacuum feed to the take off on the one way valve closest to the engine. Be warned though, the blanking caps are tight and its easy to break the Tee off from the valve. As for the isv feed, trust me on this, get a tee welded on to your alloy throttle pipe, might sound like a hassle but much simpler than any of the alternatives and fairly cheep as an alloy joiner will be about a tenner and for a fabricator to weld it on will only be 20 quid ish.

Only just noticed this, you can blank the small pvc pipe off in the red box, as your gonna be loosing the carbon capture can it feeds. You will need to keep the pipe with the red arrow pointing to it, this feeds the ISV (Idle Stabilisation Valve) which controls idle rpm's, so you may have to get a Tee welded into your alloy pipe work (should already have one though). As for the breather you could just pipe it down to around engine mounting height and stick the filter on, don't put the filter straight on the outlet as its dirty and lets smelly fumes into the cabin, I learnt this lesson the hard way. Keep the recirc valve, it prevent high pressures before the throttle which can blow hoses off, although I have heard stories of successful running without one, I don't think I'd even bother trying.

That's good to know, also reassuring that customer service is there.

Yeah, I'd love to know why they put this on the box, I used to use Magnatec and it's done no harm that I can see and doubt it will. I just don't like seeing things like this with out an explanation. And to top it off, castrol recommend it for the VR6 on their website??????????

This is a couple of pictures from the box, don't ask me why, just posting for users reference!

It was on the twin pack (8L) box's. Says VR6, no reference to 12V or 24V

If you check castrol's documentation it says not for VR6's, god knows why? Just thought I'd chuck that one in.

I've come to the conclusion you are better off piping the rocker cover breather to the charger inlet side! If you get smooth running with the MAF on the charger elbow I would be surprised, mine wouldn't idle because of turbulence from the charger picked up by the MAF. 18" from charger to MAF is typically required for smooth running. And I think you will have problems locating the BMC!

Liking the outcome of this thread, so just ignore the bill and it just goes away. Like it.

Needs to go into an ignition supply, eg fuel pump etc. I've run a relay off ignition live to power the charge cooler pump, it needs to run permanently for best performance. I think the aux pump doesn't run permanently, but may be wrong!

Haha. Collar bone really hurts, my mate did it snowboarding. Pain killers they gave him were like morphine. Hope it doesn't take too long to heal. Hope you bollacked the owner. Can't have done dog much good at that speed. How far did you fly?

They are Porsche calipers with the 223mm discs, I have a feeling they are probably a bit wider though. Knowing this hows 175 quid sound.

Hi, Can you tell me the disc to inner edge of the spoke clearance as I have some big brembo's fitted. They look to have plenty of clearance but don't want to waste a trip just to find they are miles off. If there is plenty of room I'm defo interested. Joni

Where did you get that 3" V-Band cat from Kev, I can't find them with google. I must be searching for the wrong thing.

12V is on the OBD port constantly so be careful with that idea, it will flatten your battery quicker.

Stonejag, you need to lower the latency settings and it will work with the ABS system too. I have the same cheapo one as you and once you change these settings it works no problem.

I'll second that, they arn't cheap but top quality, you'll be looking at the best part of £60 with delivery.

Kev the maths is quite simple, however you need to know the factoring used between measured values and the output which will be hidden away in the software. And then you need to know the rate of change of the cam timing which no doubt will be not be linear but proportional to the current position and actual position difference. Then you could model it in a spread sheet quite easily. I Guess what I'm saying is unless you can find out / work out those numbers simulation is impossible. Here is the basic maths that I use for my PID software loops: P = Set point - Measured Point (the easy one) I = P + P-1n + P-2n + P-3n + P-3n etc. etc.(where P-1n = previous sample and P-2n 2 samples previous to current, etc.) This may be divided by n+1 to give uniform factoring between P and I. Just another unknown to add to the equation. How many previous sums are totalled together is generally not clear and obviously determines how great the (I) constant should be. Alternatively the constant entered for I can also be the number of samples/time used giving the same effect. D = Measured Point - Measured point X many samples ago. Obviously X is another unknown. Typically X is the same as how many samples were used to calculate P. Then there are your multiples: lets call them p, i, and d. The loop runs in a cycle updating every set number of samples, the output is then adjusted accordingly. And will be something along the lines of. Current output + (P x p) + (I x i) - (D x d) Hope this helps for you guys messing with the PID control loops.

Kev, can you adjust the time constant for the pid control. If your not reaching your setpoint its too long or your p and I value are well short of what they ought to be. If you can run pid not just pi I'd highly recommend it as it prevents overshoot and oscillation.

Has anyone tried either of these 2. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINNER-HI-PERF-ALUMINUM-ALLOY-RADIATOR-VOLKSWAGEN-CORRADO-VR6-2-9L-M-T-1991-1995-/120766197453?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item1c1e39eecd http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GODSPEED-92-95-VW-CORRADO-VR6-RACING-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-/260776040416?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb77697e0 Its just with the price of radiators these days, and with me requiring a new one they are becoming very tempting. Opinions please! Also may be worth a group buy if anyone is interested.

My backup Rado rad decided to spring a leak last night, so I'm now on the search for a replacement. And happened upon this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINNER-HI-PERF-ALUMINUM-ALLOY-RADIATOR-VOLKSWAGEN-CORRADO-VR6-2-9L-M-T-1991-1995-/120766197453?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item1c1e39eecd#ht_1547wt_952 Anyone got any experience with these all alloy Chinese rads as it seem very tempting as I have an almost new rad on the Rotrexed Rado which could be swapped out for this. Anyone!! Joni ---------- Post added at 01:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:07 PM ---------- Just seen the Godspeed ones from the US, same applies!

One other thing, OBD1 ignores the MAF at WOT so clipping is not an issue, however it can still be present at say 80% throttle but the pot trick generally cures this. And keep an eye on AFR's as the fuel pressure needs to gets quite high with RR Regs and nobody really knows the standard fuel pump limits.

Hi mate. My tips would be: You'll need about 24" between charger and MAF or you will get noise on the MAF, most noticeably when changing gear at full throttle quite an unpleasant jerk if I remember correctly. You'll need to carry out the pot trick to prevent adaptation limits being exceeded. Measure the pot resistance, the 2 pins that stay the same resistance go to ground and MAF output respectively, the pin that changes resistance goes to the ECU. Therefore all 3 wires are used. Unplug your ECU lambda and tweek the pot to get 14.7 on AFR. I'd bin the resistors and just use a pot to maintain simplicity. As for remapping, all my experience is with OBD1 so can't really help I'm afraid. Good luck Joni

Where did you get the Koni's from if you don't mind me asking. My front one just exploded! They are a good 7 or 8 years old though!