VR6Joni

Fairly sure I have a full set I removed when I refurbished my head, got 100K on though! You can have them for postage, assuming they haven't been lobbed. What's your thinking for going back to standard?

Just browsing and came across this interesting way to control boost: http://www.900aero.com/ Go to Tech-APC Theory Parts can be had from the bay for peanuts. Just thought it was a novel idea and could easily be transplanted to give it a go.

Badger 5 ones are top quality, but not the cheapest.

I take it you mean a late Golf box, what's the difference then?

Try RS or Farnell. What the hell does it even do?

Try your local Peugeot breakers. Or sell the easily removable bits on ebay, then weigh it in.

Indicators are on a spring clip, push them towards the outer edge of the bumper and pull them out. This will reveal 2 screws on the outer edge of the housing and 2 next to the fog light, I the whole housing should then pull out. Hope this helps cos I can't get a picture at the moment. Edit ^ look at the wiki.

Doubt you'll be able to get them as they are moulded onto the flexi from memory, however goodrich flexi's only come with what can only be described as a grommet which are penny's.

Yeah, I was quite surprised how much it took to keep up the Renault, my brother was also a passenger and couldn't believe how quick they are. If it was standard I'd hate to bump into a tuned one. Anyhow I wasn't expecting to hear that you see 4psi at 2500rpm from a GT35, although you do have the BVH. This is most definitely a big improvement over the Rotrex where 4psi is more like 4000rpm. Even though it does have almost the same size compressor dimensions as th GT35 it's simply held back by the engine speed. From then on the boost does rise exponentially which does make it feel quick but its just not quite as wide a band of torque than I'd really like. Oh and cheers for the heads up on the classifieds.

Another question. Having bumped into a Renault Sport Megane R26 the other day and only being able to keep up at ~5000rmp + I've decided its turbo time. Not sure he expected me to be stuck to his rear bumper though, :) So GT30R or GT35R? I want lower down torque than the charger but at the same time, do not want to break any of my drive train components with relative ease. So what's people's opinions on the 2? Ideally I'd like to know what rpm people experience spool up and full boost at? I know both can handle 400bhp with easy but are there any gains such as cooler charge air with the GT35 at this sort of power?

Its whilst stuck in traffic with the heater fan on when the fumes become noticeable! A catch can is my favourite option however I'm seriously low on space and not sure I can even fit one under the bonnet. :( I'm currently assuming that recirculating the crank case fumes back to the charger inlet is a bad idea due to fouling up the compressor wheel/housing and charge cooler. Unless this is acceptable, anyone fancy enlightening me? I'm sure I've seen OEM doing this???

What's everyone doing with the engine breather setup? I've noticed mines been a bit smellier with the milder weather, an oil change improved it but I'd like it to be better. So what's everyone else's experiences?

"I recently bought a hand zapper for swatting flies, the electric kind! Not electric flies, that would be silly but an electric zapper. The temptation to try it out on myself was too much, it hurt much like I imagine giving birth to a hybrid cactus/food processor would. The reflex action from the zap was enough for me to slap myself on the eyeball. I can now exercise restraint when wishing to try the zapper on myself." This bit is quality.

That was more than likely me, I work just down the road.

Cooling system is a weak point mate yes, just get stuck in and fix it. Or buy a new car and wait for something really expensive to break or monitor the depreciation, its just as depressing.

I accidentally left a set of allen keys in my laptop bag, got all the way from Mexico to Spain before they took them off me. I said there's no way they can be used as a weapon, to which I got the reply "well you could take the plane to bits" WTF.

Deffo do this, its a common fault! Seen this done before, worked a treat. Put a bit of WD40 on contacts too.

Had a bit of joy with my twin mapping idea today. Stuck a 27C1001 in place of the 27C512, doubled up the maps by stacking one on top of the other and voila, I could select one of 2 maps from pin A16. I ran from both without a problem, just need to make them selectable from outside the ECU now. This did need an adaptor PCB to give me a 32pin socket from the 28 pin on the ECU PCB. but there's really not much to it.

Gutless was a bit strong, it's just when you give it some it's just not all there at 4K rpm +. For normal driving its not noticeable.

It will feel guttless, been there done that!

Annoyingly there are 2 different MAFs for coilpack engines, I believe 5 pin is for AF ECU and 4 pin is for CP ECU. Obviously loom must match ECU and MAF.

I'm very interested too. And ditto about living close to KIP.

I can maybe take some pics and measurements if you need, providing I don't have to take the dash out. Sure this would please a lot of other people too.

I have the DieselGeek kit and have to say it is great and comes highly recommended. Much better than the Neuspeed kit I have used in my other Corrado. Read the reviews, everyone else seems to agree.

Don't think its recommended! Absolute minimum unplug the injector on that cylinder to stop cylinder wash.