andycowuk
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Everything posted by andycowuk
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Hi I have a 92 J G60, and am planning to ditch the CAT, I am certain from the reading I have done that this will be ok, but I want confirmation first hand from someone who knows the answer! Is this exempt from the emissions testing? Will this pass MOT? In case anyone is interested I am hoping to go for a supersprint manifold and system with 120 x 80 oval tail. Thanks Andrew
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I always get my tyres from Costco, the wholesale place. They can supply any tyres sold by Michelin uk. I usually get pilot exhaultos, they are really really really good in the wet (sinse it pisses with rain all the time in scotland, this is good!), and average in the dry. They are about £55 each (from memory) I can check for you if you like. Only problem is you have to join costco to buy (really any professional can join - £25) or I can post to you if you want. HTH Andrew
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I had a set of Infinity reference 603c components in my golf, they gave superb sound quality - I beleive this quality is comon across the whole range - you get what you pay for! Do you know what the lower cut off frequency is on the components you have in the front? What you could do is put an amp inbetween them and the head unit, this will give you a much better sound straight away. The amplifier in any head unit is rubbish. The value quoted is usually the highest value obtained from hours of testing on a bench. Using the head unit to power the components is a bit like running your surrond sound system in the living room from a walkman. A good idea might be to try getting a four way amp, 75 - 100w rms/channel, to run the components and what ever replacements you use in the back - if you still want a sub, after that then change running the rears off of the head unit, to free up a pair of amp outs for bridging. My infinities had a relativley high 'low pass cut off', but when i had only them on, runing from a 2x100w amp they had a good bass note, not at all flappy! (this is the reason for the powerful amp) HTH Andrew
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Hi I was wondering two things 1 - Does the C with the KR engine have the same gearbox ratios as the golf? 2 - If it does, is it cable or rod change? My thinking is to put the gearbox onto the PG engine, because it seems to have a fairly high ratio'd box, so the lower/closer ratios would be a good improvement. Cheers Andrew
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exoert reqd: Is The 1.8 engine the same as a golfs?
andycowuk replied to madhatta's topic in Engine Bay
The 2.0l 9A engine (and the ABF from the mk3) have milder cams than the KR, the increase from 1.8 to 2.0 was due to the cat killing the already useless 'torque at low revs' of the KR. You can put the cam shafts from the KR into either of the 2.0L engines and it gets the more 'peakish' top end again that the ABF and 9A desperately lack. I have an ABF in my MK2 golf, with a magnex manifold and system and KR cams. It has good torque from idle speeds - i drive around in 5th gear all day! Andrew -
exoert reqd: Is The 1.8 engine the same as a golfs?
andycowuk replied to madhatta's topic in Engine Bay
identical....Kr engine code, kjet management. Fairly tunable. best step is to change bottom end for 9A or ABF block. Simple swap all ancilaries are the same (except the gear on the end of the oil pump drive shaft) -
If you work in halfrauds just look up the job in the MK2 golf manual, it is exactly the same suspension parts/set up.
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1. undo hub nut - you are unlikely to be able to do this without a powerbar or airgun 2. remove wheel & hub nut 3. remove bolt that goes through lower part of hub, then force bottom ball joint out of hub (do not touch the 3 locking bolts that hold the bottom ball joint to the wishbone - this will ruin your tracking and camber. You will probably need to hit the wishbone downwards away from the hub. 4. You should be able to pull the hub towards you and away from the driveshaft at this point. 5. pull outer CV off of drive shaft. you can then remove the old boot, re-grease and put new boot on. remember to put the ties on each end of the boot as tight as you can - to stop you loosing all the grease you just put in. Put it all back together in the reverse of above. Have none of your mates got a Mk1/2/3 haynes manual? The job is exactly the same. Good Luck Andrew
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It is far from cheap, but sinse you are going so far, would it be worth while to concider stand alone engine management? http://members.aol.com/emeraldm3d/ This has the same spec as the DTA management, but you get a loom with it for the same price (and all the mapping software).
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Hi, I have recently bought my C, and the only fob for the factory Fitted imobiliser is falling to bits. I went to my local VAG dealer to see about a replacement, but for some reason the sticker on the inside of the case is gone - so they cant order a replacement. How can I get a replacement? Cheers Andrew
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Hi I think everyone will tell you their combination is best.....I also think that alot of people will tell you the green stuff will eat your discs faster (this is actually true in my experience). I have just got a G60 corrado, and as the brakes need some attention, decided to use the combination that worked best on my golf...Zimmerman X drilled discs, and padgid fast road pads....these pads are very dusty but I have found they bite really well, and are not bad when cold either. I am using EBC Red stuff on the 16v golf just now with the afore mentioned discs and that combination is disgusting, the pads are sqidgy and never really bite all that well, having said that, I had it on the track once, and even after 1 hour, there was not that much fade. (but how often do I spend an hour on the track?) Just pick a combo and try it, put it down to experience! Andrew
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All these chips do is intersept the signal sent to the OEM ECU, condition them then forward them to the OEM ecu, to make it act differently. There is no question about stand alone being better than Chipping; Stand alone will always be better, I want to know how much.
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Hi I am fairly new to the G60 and Digifant side of VW, have spent the last few years messing with the 16v MK2. In the KR the difference between getting full engine management and adding a k-star or similar is huge......This is because the K-jetronic is crazy and you can only improve it so much. I think I am right in saying it is Digifant management on the PG engine, which I do know is much more versitile than the K-jetronic, but how much? Has anyone done complete engine management overhaul? or is it just not worth it/no need? Incase you dont know prices/spec, Emerald ECU and Lume is around £600, and it has multiple, fully programable 3-d maps. Any comments? Andrew
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HOOOOGE SERVICE BILL!!!!!! ARRRRRGGGGHH
andycowuk replied to BigTartanJudge's topic in Suppliers Forum
Me and my mate have done it on my MK2, his 1st MK2, a mates MK1, and most recently his 2nd MK2. Have got it down to a fine art.....less than 2 hours. :lol: -
What do you expect to happen when you put a large wait ontop a spring? If it only happens when car is full I dont think there is anything to worry about. My Golf does it with people in the back, it has Leda fully adjustables and 250Lb springs! Nothing wrong with them!
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there is a swartz black g60 on clubgti.com classifieds just now for £3750. good luck.....I found it hard enough trying to get a red one.....they are reletively common!
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I have just taken all the calipers of my g60 on sunday, and they were ALL shot. All of the seals were good but the pots starting to seize up. I just bought the car knowing there was a brake prob, I drove it to my flat slowly because it aint taxed or insured, even then the brakes were really hot, like it had been driven hard! They also rattled like hell when I was braking. The reason for my rattle is the brakes got hot when driven, then when it stops the pad binds to the disc, then when it was next driven the surface of the pad is torn off leaving it on the disc. All of the pads and discs were goosed, even though they were all reletively new (6 months). VAG have dropped prices: Front calipers £35 Rear Caliper £55 Handbrake cable £8 Be sure to do handbrake cable too! Andrew