rado mc

It is, but obviously just waiting on jims decision first. thanks

Hi Jim, Sorry for late reply, my internets been playing up. For pump, pulley, brackets and bolts job lot is £20 + posting ok unless your passing by Preston anytime! cheers Andy2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfmonte 140.jpg[/attachment:2umy16gh]

i have an early spare power steering pump complete with pulley and bracket, it came with a job lot steering bundle i only needed some pipes from. part number is 191422155 if that helps. let me know. Andy

when i get the revs close to idling speed using the arm it struggles not to cut out, so naturally reaching for the throttle and twisting it never made a difference. Would i be wrong in searching parts for another metering head/airbox etc? its prob gonna be a few more weeks until i get time again to have another good look and its a bit lighter in the evenings, makes it worse when i saw mint burgundy VR6 cruise past my work place today :(SP_A2930.jpg[/attachment:1oltqgcg]

Right thats xmas, new year out the way etc! Sorry for the delay. Regarding the battery its been off the road for a while now, but is garaged, i'd taken the battery out and always had it charged plus its relatively new, cranks away no problem so i'm sure it isn't that. However I did get a chance to take the metering head off as suggested and the arm did have consistent resistence as mentioned, so I was happy with that. I wedged a rag just under it so it was up about a cm and as soon as I turn the ignition I could clearly hear the fuel eventually gurgling on its way to the injectors. Cranked it and sure enough it fired, but straight to 3-4k rpm. oops! Soon figured that the less raised the arm was in the metering head the less it revved. However in more lower idling speeds its sounded dog rough with a lot of juddering and the gas pedal made no difference in revving speeds. the only thing that altered the revving was that arm. I let it run for a few mins, then turned it off and put it back together but it didn't work. Only seems to fire when that arm is about half a centimeter raised and cuts out when it drops to its normal starting point and thats pretty much as far as I have got with it being this time of year and winter etc. so in a nutshell, fires up ok, idles awful, can only alter rev's with that metering head arm. :brickwall:

cheers guys, i'm gonna have a double check on that different positioning and connection of the vacuum pipe, i've have been away for a few days and not had chance to have a real go at anything yet just oked my nose under and scratched head not wanting to be splattered with fuel again. The cold start injector is definately in place, i even losened that when originally looking to see what had fuel and didn't and it soon squirted out on half a turn. Is the ISV the idle stablisation valve? if so thats buzzing away quite nicely so i'm ure thats fine, but i'll give it a crack anyway for good measure. i'll wait till i 've got a mate over too so i can try the raising the arm and cranking advice and hopefully have some firing which will spur us on. I have primed the pump on and off without actually going for ignition and after the 2nd or 3rd go the note of the pump changes a little like its slowing or struggling. but fuel shoots out of the metering head when the main fuel line bolt heads are slackened afterwards so i presumed the pumps ok? will post again as soon as any news thanks again!

hi all, i've a 1.8 16v 91 and recently swapped over my 42mm to a 50mm inlet manifold whilst my rado was off the road for a while, everything came off and went back togther ok surprisingly, however it plain refuses to fire up now?! Checked for spark, got that and double checked all pipes and connections. fuel is getting to the metering head as it sprayed out when i losened the main fuel in bolt and at the cold start valve. but it doesn't appear to be making it to the injectors. i've taken off the metering head and cleaned up the arm and so on so it moves ok. And also swapped the four fuel pipes and injectors with a spare set but still no joy :( i found another thread (no fuel to injectors on 16v) which is very similar to my problem but it doesn't offer up a conclusion. Do i need to take apart the metering head, do these things break or could it be something else really simple, cheap and easy (please). thanks in advance andy

cheers for aid of location, got it unbolted. like i said it was working fine until it went. the break is on the cable/rod that comes from the slave too the pedal and its just snapped right off. Look's like its all one part and when contacting various suppliers say they don't stock that part anymore nor can get hold of one as its pre 92 on a H before they must have been redesigned :( Looks like its trip to the scrappy for a spare one then.

Hi, the cable which is attached to the clutch pedal has snapped right at the pedal on my 1.8 16v. It just went with clunk/ping as i started putting my foot down on the pedal to change gear, the pedal instantly disappeared from under my foot and stuck down under the dash leaving me in 2nd. On closer inspection the pedal can be moved from pinned fully down to fully up but nothing inbetween. First thought was clutch cable gone, but as i now know that bits hydraulic so (i don't know why i did this bit first) i've looked it over and it seems in order. The problem i'm having is with the bit from the actual pedal to where ever it goes through the bulkhead. i just can't see where it is at all engine side and i'm stuck. Is this a DIY? ££? Has anyone else had this bother, hints tips much appreciated? or is it my Rado's just special :roll: Thanks in advance Andy

i'm not to technical sorry, all i know is what i was told and got the cog handed to me with smeared remains of this notch. just wasn't on tight app. feels great now and shifts :D despite sounding burbly and jolty when cold then idles at just over 1k when warm. hopefully will be just a few adjustments to the throttle etc after that and everything else got molested and adjusted in search of original problem :scratch:

thanks for advice, its been a very frustrating time, but fortunately i have a very good father-in-law/mechanic. who ended up having the car left at his. not wanting to beaten he stuck at it periodically throughout the week and has found the problem. whoever fitted the cambelt last hadn't tightned the cog enough it goes round on the end of the crankshaft (behind the twin pulleys). there's a notch on the inside of this and that had worn to almost nothing and if it had gone completely would have been just like a cam belt failure, app i was 'very lucky'. this threw out the timing and killed power despite the markers reading it was spot! :brickwall: hope this can helps anyone else who has had similar probs and tried everything else.

hi, i've had very similar problems myself recently with my 16v, it baffled my mechanic/father-in-law and his partner for a week but finally today after probing, unpluggling re-plugging and testing everything finally cracked it. turns out whoever changed the cam belt last had not tightened the cog (sits behind the twin pulleys?) on the end of the crankshaft and this over time had worn away some notch on the inside thus throwing it out of sync and dropping power considerably like you mentioned feeling like a spluttering 1 litre micra. when checking the timing it showed it as spot on but it wasn't case app. £20 later for a new cog and a cambelt the difference was immediate, all power back after weeks of frustration. app i was very lucky as there was not much left of this notch so came close to what would have been the same as a cam belt failure. sorry i'm not too accurate with descriptions etc but i hope this gives you another avenue to explore and hopefully works out.

i've also got this going on, one second 40mph next 140mph! and so on esp if i'm accelarating and yes the spoiler joining in too making people behing shake there head. tried cleaning and messing with gearbox connection. no help. hope its not any wiring behind the dash, been there once with heater matrix and don't want to go there again!! let us know please if you get any results?

Puddle was on passenger side, it spluttered to a halt but re-started 3-4 mins later fortunately as engine was already warm. so never bothered to look under bonnet. Regarding when its cold, its usually fine but recently it struggles to move when you engage 1st. esp if its on a slope. A hill it would normally take in 5th about 35-40 easily, its now having to be dropped to 2nd just to keep momentum :confused4:

hi, i've had my 16v for about 4 years now (1.8 1991)its been brilliant despite usual things going wrong. however it's recently lost its 'go' it struggles to rev past 5k rpm and past 75-80mph it feels like its a 1.1 with 50 bhp not a 1.8. i had the distributor turned clockwise about 5mm and it made a great difference but that was about a month ago but now almost like overnight its slumped back to slow mode were it struggles to pull out of road ends etc like its starved of something, checked air and checked fuel, both are coming through ok. new spark plugs 3 months ago, new air filter etc. mechanic has briefly looked over but couldn't find anything and tried various things to get it going. I'm thinking ECU but not sure? i did plough through a big puddle a few days before it went wrong and wondered if that was the culprit.... any help/advice much appreciated as people are trying to make me buy a ford probe and such like!! :(