RichG60

Supercharger sent off today and getting stage 5 done :) I think my future plans are BBS alloys to replace the ones the previous owner took off and then 20v turbo conversion. My friend in Padstow had one done by his friend who owns pure motorsport, also did a mk2 golf which went like the clappers! :)

My Audioscape pods :- My Improved standard ones made to accommodate 6.5" drivers :- And finally I'm almost finished on Stage 2 of my standard one's which will incorporate a linking system to the door so there is a perfect seal. I will get pics up when I finish :)

I appreciate that I won't make big bhp without further engine work. I just wondered if the extra work from stage 4 to 5 is worth £80 more from a standard rebuild. I've been told the torque will come in lower. Yeah in exeter too mate black rado g60, g60 steels, quite low on koni coilovers with beige leather storm interior. Also on swdubs but use this forum more :) Haven't seen your rado around though. My Car:- With Centre caps on though :-

Also its done 27000 miles on a 68mm pulley, does that sound about right now to get it serviced?

I'm removing the charger for a service on Monday and wondered if I should get G Werks to port it to stage 5. Will I notice much of a difference on a standard engine from stage 4 to 5?. I have 68m pulley and sns 5.5.

What would be the side effect of running open loop all the time? My car starts first time and has lots of power and idles correctly so assume everything must be alright :).

Thanks for the response, that's how it was set up. When you say reconnect the sensor and at the same revs it should be 30odd. What are you referring to 30 degrees? If so how can you tell. Cheers

Cheers dropped him a pm :)

Cheers mate, I tweaked the ignition timing as per the instructions and the car is spot on. Re the spring damper on the charger that attaches to the tensioner guide can you get replacement isolator mounts for them? The rubber ring with a metal insert that fits in the bottom of the damper.

Anyone? Will the engine timing affect max boost or is it the ignition timing. Thing is I'm happy the engine timing is correct.

Also can someone confirm that the 6degree btdc marker is a deep groove.

Hi guys, I did a major service yesterday and attacked the timing / serpentine belt today as per the definitive guide on the forum. Well started her up and she was running lovely, I marked the fly wheel with tipex to make it easier to spot the timing mark. Dad tweaked the ignition timing but only at idle, no Blue Temp sensor disconnected and not up to temperature. The car again was idling correctly after the adjustments were made. On the way home I noticed the peak boost was lower than usual. about 10-12psi. The car seemed to drive well but not making full boost. Car is running (68mm, gwerk stage 4 and sns 5.5) Would this be caused by the ignition timing not being carried out correctly e.g. 2000-2500rpm with blue temperature sender disconnected and up to temperature? Also when I disconnected the spring tensioner unit I noticed the rubber isolator ring has perished and is causing a rattling sound. Can this be replaced separately or will I need to buy the whole damper unit? Cheers Rich

Hi guys, My speedometer has been behaving strangely. When I set off sometimes it will stay at rest until I get to about 30mph and then springs back to life. This problem has been getting steadily worse and think today it might have stopped altogether. I believe my instrument cluster is a late electric one. I have a digital distance counter / odometer. I have read through various posts and can't find a definitive answer. Do I need to get a new speed sensor? Does this fit behind the instrument cluster? Thanks Rich

Cheers, you're a star!

Hi guys, I want to change my suspension back to normal struts (have koni coilovers at present) and need to make up a list of parts required. I've read there are differences between the plates. Can any one enlighten me? I literally don't have any of the orginal parts that make up the struts. I have been on vagcat and looked at the parts required but want to be certain they are correct. I think my car is an early model converted to late spec interior etc. Cheers Rich

Cheers mate, This is exactly what I wanted, mine doesn't have the hole in the back but I can create one and mount it that way. Cheers Rich

Someone must have fitted one of these?

Hi guys, I have an Audioscape sub enclosure that I'm trying to mount, currently it's fixed with industrial strength velcro. I want to fix it more permanently has anybody mounted it with brackets? Any tips would be great :) Cheers Rich

In the end the problem was the snapped wire on the ecu to lambda probe connector. Car passed the MOT without any adjustment to the co pot : )

I have a McIntosh mx406 really suits the the car with its glass front :- http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/products/Mc ... player.asp

Think I've solved the over fueling issue, went to remove the lambda and noticed a wire had snapped at the connector(ecu loom to lambda). Was a real pain to fix but got there in the end and plugged in a new lambda while I was at it. Hopefully that has sorted it now, retest on weds!

Today I have been pretty busy on the rado, Changed the n/s brake line to master cylinder n/s rear calliper flexi hose n/s rear brake line to ldv o/s steering rack boot & track rod end ball joint Adjusted the parking brake Adjusted the headlight height But finally changed the bts (Blue temperature sender) Problem is the revs rise slightly from 750/800 – 900rpm when the BTS is disconnected at normal running temperature. Is this something to worry about, I read on the forum that they are supposed to drop. I have no idea if the emissions have improved though, put some kitchen roll against the tail pipe when the car was up to temperature and there was no soot (excess fuel) on it.

Ok cheers, does the blue top coolant temp sensor provide the reading to the ecu & the black top one do the temp gauge. Only reason I ask is because the temp gauge is reading correctly.

Anybody??

I guess with the co pot set as it is slighty on the side of lean this isn't at fault. I will try disconnecting the lambda to see if this makes any difference. Also I read that the blue coolant sensor could be causing a problem. Is this worth changing?