RichG60

I tested pins 1 and 3 of the co pot and it is set to 700 ohms is this too high?

Thanks for that, I marked the co pot with its current position and tried to adjust it. Turning it a couple times made no difference to the car at all e.g. it kept idling and running as it has been. I unpluged the co pot from the boost pipe and blew across it and again no change to the car. Does this suggest its dead?

Anyone?? :( This is the first car I've had that has failed an mot, I have a few other things to do but the emission thing is the biggest thing and I don't have long to go so any help would be much appreciated :).

The full test results are :- CO 8.15 % vol HC 292ppm CO2 9.50% O2 0.72 % vol LAMBDA 0.80 Do the other figures help in diagnosing my problem?

This is my lambda sensor :- Best picture i could take given the position of it. Does it look like a Bosch one? If the lambda is faulty wouldn't my idle be erratic?

Why would that make it run rich? :confused4: I didn't say that it made it run rich I said it smells rich because the boost return is vented to atmosphere.

Is this the one to get? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Bosch-Front-Lambd ... 286.c0.m14

Looking at the receipts G-werks replaced the co pot last year on its MOT, I can't find any records of a new lambda though. Which one would I be looking at getting? I notice there are a few Bosch Lambda's on Euro car parts for the G60.

As far as I'm aware the car was set-up by g-werks when the previous owner had it. The car is running a 68mm pulley with a stage 4 charger. I did a full service on her last weekend. Yes the car smells a bit rich but that Is from the deleted boost return up front. The car runs beautifully and mpg is very good. No unburnt fuel coming out of the exhaust and it's not blacked with fuel. The old spark plugs were very healthy with no signs of over fueling. As for the lambda I will get under the car tonight and check. Do you think it could be this that's shot? Thanks Rich

Thanks for the response, the car doesn't have a cat, doesn't need one as pre Aug 92. I haven't set the co pot with a wideband.

Hi guys had my MOT today and failed badly on emissions. As far as I'm aware all sensors are new about a year ago by the previous owner. New co pot and Lambda sensor. The car is running an SNS 5.5 chip. The test results are as follows :- co level 8.15% vol hc level 292 ppm co2 level 9.5 % vol what should I check first? I guess I should be looking at adjusting the co pot but what reading should I be looking for with this chip? What is the exact procedure? Take the reading when at normal running temperature across contacts 1-3? Cheers Rich

What I did was make up an mdf baffle plate which I bolted to the door behind where the Audioscape pods fit. I treated it with resin to water proof it and used some skins moisture gaurd to protect the back of my speakers. Next I glued a close cell foam gasket to the baffle, refitted the door card with the Audioscape pods on. put three long screw through the back of the Audioscape pods in to the baffkes on the door compressing the foam and creating a gasket. Refitted the speakers and they are sealed and vented in to the door and no movement at all, its completely rigid!

Thanks for all the advice, pot holes are not the issue, the road surface is terrible in places, the road surface is cracked and not all tarmac. The road is a crappy A road, not tarmac'd completely or in the last 20 years! I drive 25 miles a day with a work colleague, never drive fast to be honest. The car has Toyo T1r's on which I'm happy about, no need to change them. But actually thinking about it my Standard Clio Williams was worse lol I just think I'm getting old. I will definitely look at getting the suspension lifted up, I didn't set it that way. I have set the dampers to the softest setting as it was ridulous half way. Perhaps when I get some 16's for it with raised suspension I might get an improvement.

I managed to improve things greatly by playing with the phase, I believe the mids need more time to run in before they get to their full potential. Things sound great with the engine off but as soon as its turned on all low frequencies are clouded by the ambient noise.

I've decided to look in to replacing my Koni coilovers as they are far too hard for Devon roads, great when your driving on a smooth surface but there isn't a lot of that round here. I want to maintain the ride height, the car is on standard 15inch G60 steelies 195 50 15's but have a notably softer ride. Is this possible??

I will clean up the joint and attach a crocodile clip to the earth wire then use that epoxy glue which should sort it. Thanks for the info, I'm sure I will be able to sort something out :)

Thanks for the reply, yes the pods are vented in to the doors through the standard holes in the door. Do you think I could be getting some cancellation issues running both mids in positive phase?

I've almost completed my install now and there is one thing left I need to improve, the mid bass from the Audioscape enclosures is pretty poor. This is what I've done to date, doors are completely sound proofed (2 layers on inner skin, 1 layer on the outer skin that faces the door card back) and holes sealed. The components I'm running are Focal K2P. I'm running these off there crossovers and these are being powered by a bridged JL 600/4 giving them 2 x 300wrms so they have plenty of power on tap. I've checked the phase of the speakers so they are all relative. No EQ has been applied at the moment. I have constructed an mdf baffle which bolts to the door and then you screw through the back of the audioscape pods to it which makes the pods solid. Can anybody tell me if they have managed to improve the mounting of the pods or have run these components with good results or any components for that matter? Thanks Rich

Thanks for the reply :D. The problem is that the earth connection where the wire connects to the nozzle ring is rusted. The earth wire is fine as I can make a new one up. Don't really want to be messing around with a hot soldering iron around the fuel tank :shock:

Hi guys, I decided to clean up under my arches and give them a general inspection and everything looks sound, I took the rubber shroud out round the fuel filler cap and inspect the metal around this area, as I understand it can be problematic with rust. Everything looks in great shape bar the ground which goes from the chassis to the metal ring on the fuel filler neck; the ground connector has rusted off! I appreciate this is quite important so that when the fuel nozzle is put in the tank static electricity doesn't set off the fuel. Pic :- I phoned up VW and they suggested I needed a new fuel tank which is utterly ridiculous! can anybody suggest a solution to reconnect it?

Sorry for the delay in updating this thread, had quite a few changes in my system. After i built the pods from the existing door pockets which fitted the dls nobeliums i decided to make up custom baffles mounted to the door skin. I had a focal k2p setup i planned to run instead of the dls speakers, i ran the mids on the door skin and the mid bass was fantastic but had a change of heart and...... now have 7 inch cdt euro sport 06 drivers in the doors in audioscape pods which i Fitted at the weekend ha ha :) Any way i have a new amp as well, JL HD 600/4. I have the cdt's running active through 2 channels of the JL and the Focal tn52 tweeters through the other channel but running through there passive crossovers as they were too goregeous to not be used. I have a new source unit as well ha Alpine ida x200 + h100 for imprint and other crossover goodies + a mint 12 disc ainet cd changer. Have the dual mono powering the subs but will get a move on with the custom sub enclosure so i can get my aliante 12 in :D. And b4 u say it i have the ice bug bad and have had for years lol. Have loads of spare speakers and amps i haven't used lol Will get pics up buddy at weekend.

What a weekend!! Replaced the window slot seal on the drivers side with a new part (£50!) Water was running down the glass into the door! Replaced the rubber aperture seal with a second hand part (bit that the door sits on, old one had torn in the centre) looks as good as new. Went to replace the electric window mechanism with a new part I bought from Volkswagen (£240!) only to find that they had ordered the wrong side! I was fuming! I spoke to them yesterday and they said there is nothing they can do about it, my word against the parts guy that served me! I definitely know which side I asked for! Anyway had to temporarily fix the glass up for the time being until my second hand part arrives. I vapour guarded my speakers with some special foam; spray glued the door and then fastened the foam. I have fitted the pods to the doors and they look good apart from the fact that the beige vinyl I ordered from Audioscape is more cream than beige! Got tweeters mounted on dash but have an issue where the DLS tweeter grille does not fit under the dash tweeter grilles. Might need to make a custom baffle up do it sits lower. At present I hole sawed the original mount and sat the tweeter in. Will get pics up later. So last thing I need to do is fire it up : D

The 6x9's I'm using on my parcel shelf are proper subs, they operate between 30-500hz. I'm only using them as a fill in gap until I get my aliante 12 in a custom enclosure. Def don't use rear speakers unless you want some kind of surround sound environment for films.

I agree, don't add rear speakers. A decent set of well fitted components in the front will be enough. The rado isn't large enough to warrant rear speakers, it would also drag the sound stage back which you don't want to do.

Thanks buddy, Where the the amps are hidden away behind the seats there is plenty of room for them as they sit in the apex. They don't touch the seats and there is ventilation at the top. I have the Dual mono powering the DLS Nobelium mids and 4 channel powering the Tweeters and the other channels bridged to run the Genesis 6 x 9 subs : ) I haven't had anything playing yet as need to get the tweeters and mids installed.