veedub16v
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Everything posted by veedub16v
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i wouldn't agree with that, would much rather have 1-3 than just 4 (would rather have them all but hey ho). i think the 10yr owner had no foam on his heater flaps or something :lol:
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i had the same problem and changed the resistor but now get speeds 1-3 and not 4 :cuckoo: :lol:
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the permanent solution is to use a heater matrix from a later car that wont explode! GSF supply the one for the audi TT that fits. Then you can delete the bypass valve
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http://www.vwspares.co.uk/ :salute:
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well they are still rubber with metal ring in them. apparently they dont last long either. For the money you spend (over £200 for a full set isnt it?) theres better ways of doing it for less money. A solid ally mount is, what £40? if you like your poly bushes fit them to the front subframe as well, because these are effectively part of the front engine mount. Tightens things up nicely 8)
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Nice one! ill give them a ring cheers :salute:
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those vt mounts are a complete rip off for what they do. Im a big fan of the solid ally front mount and standard rear 2. Theres FA engine movement and a small amount of vibration through the pedals. thats about it. Remember to change the bushes on the front subframe as well, these often get overlooked
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old ht leads can cause this, id try this first
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do corrado's have the bypass valve for the matrix like mk2 golfs? If so its pretty much guaranteed to be that sticking!
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fill it up again, start the engine and look for the leak!
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without reading 31 pages, are standard replacement exhausts available from anywhere now? i need the big middle box from a g6o with the bar type hangers and hate stainless exhausts with a passion :lol: cheers guys
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Hi guys, whats the latest situation with after market standard exhausts? Like the guy above I am after a middle box for a g60 with the bar hangers, but just want a standard box. If not available aftermarket anyone know how much from vw? cheers mark
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yeah its stupidly heavy :lol:
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was changing the cv joints on my g60 the other day and had to remove this heavy block bolted to the subframe. anyone know what its for? my only guess is that its to catch the engine incase of rear engine mount failure :cuckoo:
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well whatever had moved has sorted itself out because the gears feel fine now :clap: its healed itself!
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you pretty much have to strip the whole gearbox apart to get to the diff, so yeah quite an involved job
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Rounded of the bleed niple - Any tips on tools to use?
veedub16v replied to Mawrick's topic in Drivetrain
dont forget to rub cheese into it :lol: -
cheers mate. well i have managed to get it into 1 and 2, but its not easy at all. i think the whole shifter unit needs rebushing and maybe when i forced it out of reverse the alignments gone out a bit. its like im driving a mk2 golf again :lol:
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have just had a fiddle with that and its not solving the problem. im pretty sure somethings broken in the shifter box, but its hard to see in there. im guessing its an exhaust off job and drop it down to examine. :censored: :censored: :censored:
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Rounded of the bleed niple - Any tips on tools to use?
veedub16v replied to Mawrick's topic in Drivetrain
lots of plusgas on the thread and then try some molegrips. its only a small thread so be careful! shouldnt require too much force though -
hold on, ill go take some. it all looked ok though. its like somethings misplaced and is causing the linkages to be forced down into the reverse position when you push the lever to the left :shrug:
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cant say how it will handle with r888's on the front and normals on the back, but r888's increase grip by a good 30% i would estimate from running them on my golf. i cant see it being good having that much less grip on the back!
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i think the one your talking about is there. heres a few pics to see if anyone can spot anything!