CazzaVR

Perky, if you meet up with the the others, Vaughan can give you Daren's ticket as he can't make it now. Just change the name on the ticket ;-) give Vaughan a shout. Morning's looking reasonable at the mo...

:lol: they are sent to try us!

Undo nut at the top of mount. Jack up engine. Undo two bolts either side of the mount that bolt to the subframe. Lift mount out. New one in. Reverse procedure. Sometimes the top bolt doesn't line up very well, so it's a good idea to lower the engine so it's a few mm above the mount. Lift the mount up to the braket and pop the bolt in about half way. Now drop the engine down, turn on and idle for a minute, then fully and tighten all the bolts. Forgot to say, I usually undo the front mount as well which makes lifting the engine easier.

Thanks Rob. Will get a fuel pressure test when I get it serviced.

Definitely not the battery. Turns over fine and the voltage on the gauges is always strong. Will check the earth and ground stack etc though.

Well thought I'd fixed this when I found the inlet pipe was split underneath. Has been fine since changing it until yesterday. Wouldn't start at all. Had to spray some carb cleaner into the inlet again to get it started. Felt very lumpy for a while afterwards. Was also lumpy a couple of times accelerating gently on part throttle. It's done this before, but not very often.

Looks like aircon to me as well...

It was dyno'd at Stealth before and after, although there was a few months between runs.

My old VR gained 7 bhp from the bmc! Who actually said this? An open cone in the VR bay would have to have an amazing heat shield to stop heatsoak. The best fitting heat shield you can get is already fitted to the bmc :lol: An open cone routed through the carbon can hole is a different proposition though... I'd go bmc, carbonio or standard air box if it was me.

Dear me- and he doesn't just say it the once either! Pillock :lol:

The manual states that you should use 10W40 or 15W40. So Quantum Silver 10W40 has alsways been the ideal choice for the Rado, especially as it's cheap. Fine to top up with a different grade.

Thanks to Ollievr6 for the handbrake fix bracket. Arrived quickly :salute:

Used the castrol several times and it's good. Can get it in halfords too.

Just copy and paste the address ;)

Got the handbrake itself.

Have a good look at the coilpack. You'll have to remove it for inspection as sometimes the cracks are tiny and underneath. Only takes 15 mins to remove. You can cover the cracks in epoxy resin (araldite etc) if you don't want to buy a new one. vwspares.co.uk seem to be best on price. Also worth checking all the above + vac leaks. Recently found a hole underneath my intake pipe, which was causing lumpy running and poor starting. Would never have found it without removing the pipe.

Thanks for all the reg no's etc guys. I've got a whole bunch of tickets. Unfortunately I won't be able to make it in the morning due to unforseen circumstances, but I'll hopefully be along in the afternoon. I'll pass the tickets on to Vaughan. I would suggest meeting at the Cattle Country car park at 9am. It's only 5 minutes from the castle. You need to be through the gates by 9:30am. http://www.cattlecountry.co.uk/index.php/contact-us

I'll take the handbrake fixing kit please :)

Thanks to Charlie (Chazrad) and Johnny_5 for various parts. Excellent service!

Thanks Daren, thankfully all sorted... Lambda.

Please add a price ASAP ;)

Sorry to hear that Dave- crappy news :( . Let's hope it's not the bottom end. Any black smoke on overrun?

Nothing coming up on VAGCOM AFAIK. Done the unplug test on the MAF and it seems fine, but I know they can go wrong, but still appear to be working correctly.

The garage seem to think it could be something to do with the throttle body, ECU or MAF. It's had new plugs and I cleaned the BMC a few months ago. New VAG blue temp sensor a couple of months ago. Dunno if it's driving OK as I haven't driven it for a month. Was OK last time I drove it. Garage told me to call back tomorrow afternoon.

Bump- any ideas?