CazzaVR

Oh yeh, also fitted the under-engine splashguard I've had in the garage for a few years! Anyone got the second one for the pulleys?

Looks very clean! Nice and standard too, apart from the squiggly map outline thingies. Personally, I'd get rid of them if I was selling. Click here to post in Cars For Sale.

Keep the Speedies. Get them done in anthracite 8)

Lowered the rear Koni shocks a couple of notches. Padded the rear axle to stop the exhaust knocking. Fitted 10mm spacers to all the wheels- much better stance now on the standard BBS rims.

I'm a total novice- do these polishers leave swirl marks at all?

What a nightmare! Had a real go at it today. 2_Door_fun, there are the 3 bolts you mention, + one long one you have to remove from above, + another right next to the stat housing. All the others came off easily enough, but the last one simply wouldn't budge. Really hacked off- a real waste of a Saturday afternoon. Gonna have to go to the garage yet again as there's no way I can remove this.

Yep, take the whole lot, including the sensors off. The 3 bolts are pretty obvious, although it's difficult to see them because of the layout.

33 Mini City 1.0 (Cream/Rust) Nissan Sunny 1.6 16v (Green Pearl) Pug 306 ST 2.0 8v (Gunmetal Grey Metallic) VW Corrado G60 (Aqua Blue) Honda Civic VTI 1.6 (Black) VW Corrado 2.0 16v (Brilliant Metallic Black) VW Corrado VR6 (Blackberry- see Nikki's sig above, although it was a bit more standard when I had it!) Honda Civic VTI 1.8 (Pirate's Black) VW Corrado 2.0 16v (Classic Pearl Green) VW Corrado VR6 (Black) Skoda Octavia vRS 1.8 20VT Estate (Black Magic Pearl) VW Corrado 2.0 16v (Aqua Blue)

Bit fiddly tbh. You'll need to remove the dizzy/coilpack for easier access. Once you've removed the old housing give the side of the head where it was mounted a good clean, especially if it was siliconed before. I would definately replace the rubber seal too. Don't do the bolts up too tightly when refitting it either, as over-tightening can damage the plastic housing.

Best to talk to Vince at Stealth- they can also do a mod to the warm-up regulator which has excellent results.

Not too sure about the redline, but Castrol SMX-S is damn good and you can get it off the shelf in larger Halfords. It's also cheaper...

Not too sure about the reliability of flowed heads- would think it should be just as reliable as standard as long as it's not too drastically ported. Definately drop in the KR inlet cam from your 1.8 16v. It's a straight swap and should give you around 10 extra horses. Free too :wink: . Exhaust and panel filter help with the breathing, but not much bang for buck though. Think you'd be lucky to see anything more than 5bhp from those two combined. Stealth do a good rolling road tune up/remap for the 9A too.

My local specialist charges £370. They send it off to the guy who did all the TSR flowing- top quality stuff apparently. There's a guy on Ebay who does them for less than that too, they look good and he's got good feedback. For the actual head, look on Ebay, here, Edition 38, VW breakers etc.

Definately a VR. You could get something pretty tidy for that money. The 16v seems to be depreciating terribly at the mo, whereas the VR will always hold it's value better.

Cheaper option to a G60 engine would be another 16v. You could probably get a decent 9A head pretty cheap. Drop in the inlet cam from your 1.8 and get it gas flowed and you should see similar bhp to a standard G60 anyway.

Well done! Has the other ISV turned up yet?

Daily driver, unless it's ill, then I use the vRS. Usually use the vRS for longer drives, going away etc- really love it- comfort and a bit of oomph when you need it too.

Sounds promising- hope it's finally fixed!

It's a valver, but from what you describe it sounds very similar. I'll have another go tomorrow and let you know how I get on- cheers for your help!

Cheers! Where is the PS pump/bracket? :oops:

2_Door_fun, cheers matey. Sounds like a lot of hassle :( Got any pics?

Welcome! Really nice G- always liked those Stilautos. Any more pics?

Anyone?

Eric, this will be an absolute disaster if it happens. 99% of us have got at least a couple of mods on our cars...

The car has suddenly started to run cooler, and on the last couple of cold mornings, the oil hasn't reached 80 and the water has barely moved off the bottom of the dial. Started from cold today, and the hoses to the radiator warmed up pretty quickly along with all the other water hoses. Am I right in thinking there shouldn't be any water movement to/from the rad until the water temp is at least 80C? From this evidence, I reckon the stat has stuck open. Ordered a new one + housing. When I went to fit it today, I couldn't find the old one in the engine bay :oops: (not as straight forward as a VR!). Has anyone got any pics? Any tips on removal/fitting new one? I want this to be as pain-free as possible. Got a feeling it's at the front of the engine at the bottom somewhere :? (hard to get at). Cheers! :)