Tattie

I saw my first C on my normal journey to/from work today! Not many round this way I think. A dark colour, possibly violet/grey M plate on the Martin to Woodhall Spa 'roller coaster' B road. I flashed and waved

The only way round that would be put another switch in somewhere and extend the wires to it. Mines the same, its connected to the earth line (goes from the lamp holder to the switch - grey wire) But to be honest why bother if its working? As the switch is built into the lock itself as soon as the lock is operated/opened the switch activates. And you have to do that to actually open the boot. That means it operates before any other switch would.

Yeah checked that it all worked before I reassembled everything. Also my drive is on a slight hill. Has came in handy once so far!

A metal bar comes from the door lock to that wonderful PLASTIC handle. Possibility that the bar has come off one end or that the plastic handle clip has broken. Another is that the whole plastic handle (handle/cup bit) has slipped in the door card. IIRC it has to be pushed forward hard into the door card. If its not fully home it won't open the door - had this on mine.

Just for info I had hassle with my boot interior light not coming on. Had power to the lamp but would not come on i.e. switch perm open. After a bit of investigating the actual switch for the boot light is in the boot lock itself, the part on the tailgate - not the body. The nice brass looking shackle bit with the movable latch. If you take off that shackle cover (4 plastic plugs which you have to push out the centres) and the tail gate cover (turn lock plastic screws) you can get access to it. There should be a cable with a 2 core plastic plug on it which pushes into the rear of the lock (if viewed from outside the car) . It comes from near the locking motor itself. The switch closes (operates the light) when the shackle part of the lock is open and opens (switches the light off) when the shackle closes/locks. Only reason mine didn't work was because the cable had become loose in the socket. Pushed it home and its now A-OK! I hope this is of help to anyone with a dodgy boot light.

Hi folks, boy was I lucky today? On the way to GSF at Lincoln just turned off the main road and almost into the car park. I stop to let another car out and when I lift the clutch to start moving again all I get is a horrible thudding and grinding noise. I thought the clutch was ok because I could get it in gear and it seemed to work as it should. Rang Volkskraft to pick their brains and they said could be a driveshaft or cv problem - quite comman apparently! Walked into GSF and they recommmended a garage just down the road to check it out for me. Anyway long and the short of it was that the inner CV joint drivers side had completely given up the ghost. All the bolts etc were still in place but the inner ball bearings had disintergrated or what ever. Luckily GSF had them in stock and the garage fitted it there and then for me. Cost 90 quid including the push there! Not bad but bloody lucky I wasn't on the way back from work. I would have been well in the clag then, plus in the bloody sticks. Could have been quite embarrassing in the middle of an overtake too

Wasn't cheap! I had a new windscreen fitted plus side windows taken out and then put back in by a specialist. Approx £300 for that lot if not a bit more. Sunroof was repaired (only tilted), wing (from Struan) replaced and the front bumper repaired. In the end just over 2K (ouch I know) but it is a bloody good job. A friend from back home who used to have his own bodyshop was very impressed with the job.

Depends on how cheap it was and how well serviced it had been. At the end of the day its a fairly basic 8 valve engine and they go forever, apart from the supercharger. Whats the general condition of bodywork, brakes, suspension etc?

Cheers for that guys, I'll just take a trip to my nearest motor factors then. Thought I could get away with some decent pipe. Of course when I went looking through my garage I couldn't find any either. Hence the cheap plastic stuff courtesy of the motor mechanics at work. Thanks for looking anyway Jim.

cheers for that Jim but your's is in bloody good order too! Can't believe you want to sell it

Mr Moderator sir!, could you please move this thread to the members gallery. ta very much!

After a long delay due to not having a camera handy after the cars has had a wash here are some photos of my car post respray. The bluetooth Parrot car kit is in and working brilliantly with my Sony Ericson phone. I've also fitted an Infinity Basslink to go with my Alpine headunit and Boston FS50 components. Speaker pods have also been deadmatted. The sound is now a hell of a lot better with that extra bass. I now have a complete (apart from a few small items) black interior fitted and I'm very happy with it. Perhaps if a black leather interior came along I might be tempted to change but until then! I need to sort out the suspension (boge lowering kit) as it's just too bouncy on Lincolnshire back roads. Not sure if just chopping the bumpstops will sort it out as they are standard (new).

You could take another CHEAPER one apart and fit the internals and bearings to your case. Problem is which one has the same fittings, output etc? I have one that looks similar back end wise and its from a peugeot BUT I have yet to try it out.

Hiyah folks, can anyone give me the part number for the fuel pipe that comes off the fuel rail on the manifold to the fuel pressure switch please. (according to the bently manual its for the fuel run on pressure switch). For a '91 model G60. Its on the rhs of the engine underneath the throttle cable c/boost control valve I tried bog standard (plastic) fuel pipe and it gets too hot and I get the wonderful smell of petrol in the cabin again. Can I use bog standard rubber pipe here as an alternative? I tried to find the russian online catalogue but it seems to have disappeared cheers

do you need to cut the front bumpstops down as well? do you also have to shape them or can you just cut them flat? The originals have a bit of a cone shape at the top to fit into the strut top mountings

Hi Folks, I replaced my dodgy original suspension a while back (approx 10,000 miles if that) with a Boge lowering kit (shocks and springs). Replaced all top mounts and bumpstops but I didn't cut them down. Now I'm doing the daily drive the rides far too crashy/bouncy over bumps. Especially on the B roads I use to work (Lincolnshire area around Woodhall Spa, Metheringham etc), it's like being on a space hopper! I can't afford the whole koni and H & R kit at the mo but considered just the springs alone, either H & R or G-Max ones (Been in a VR with them and Boge shocks, a far better quality ride than mine). The springs are a definate purchase, where's the best/cheapest place to get them from? Is it worth getting replacement bumpstops front and rear or cutting down the original ones? If replacement items which ones and where from? cheers

change the glass lens of the main light asap. If the water/condensation gets in it knackers the chrome/reflective part of the main light dead easy!! then its a whole new light!

Spotted a light colour J plate 16 valve on the Ancaster to Colsterworth road this morning around 7am. Couldn't really tell the reg or colour as it was minging!! Plus I overtook it in my diesel shed!

Got both front and rear from GPC £5 each IIRC

Darren, do we get the laminate flooring as well? cool? I need a few 'planks' to replace my scratched ones!

Darren, do you take our 'flexible friends' (or semi-regid depending on how much is on it!)' or is it strictly cash/cheque?

Darren, what sort of price are we looking at?? is it best to do anything else at the same time or before fitting the kit?

Contact Daz at G-werks He's on the forum as g-man. His web site is here http://www.g-werks.com/ a new one is going to cost about a grand, a recon/refurb about £800. As for starting the engine - has the supercharger belt been 'taken out of the loop'? i.e the 'fan belt' doesn't go round the supercharger pulley? If so you SHOULD be alright. It will just act as an 8 valve GTI type engine approx 115 BHP. You will probably need to clean out the intercooler when you replace the charger. Touch base with Daz first, very helpful and the 'font of supercharger' knowledge

Hi Gav (H100VW), yeah they might be.....but I'm a bloody shiney for a while now. (DLO again!)

OOOPPs, sorry for the double post, bloody works internet connection