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Ok cool thanks I'll have a look.

*Disclaimer* I'm not putting a cheap spal fan on the VR. I briefly remember reading a post on here where someone used a cheap alternative (ebay special) to a spal fan and having good results, basically identical in design and spec but much cheaper. I am having some heat issues with my Subaru engined beetle and want to play around with fan options. I don't want to buy a expensive Spal one in case my ideas don't work and I need to change the rad size/position etc and then the fan not fit. Does anyone have any experience with the cheaper versions and whether they are any good?

Oh right, out of curiousity is there an easy replacement for the PVC (read, alternative)? Found this image on the web, the small return pipe, with the clamp on the RHS, I have put a bung in the end of mine because that part of the PVC broke so I had to fit a bit of copper plumbing pipe so I could fit the rubber hose The small nipple from the valve has broken on mine. Either way my PVC has failed on me before and has been cleaned, and glued back together. Does the MK3 still use a damper box? Can I swap the PVC for a catch can?

I will fully inspect it before I go home from work today, it looked well protected so it should be ok as you say :) Cams you say eh. Heard that thrown around a few times on here, not really thought too much of it but if it'll benefit from the OBD2 upgrade might think about that too. What would you suggest? Thats what I like to hear! If anything it'll cure the fact mine was down on power (RR'd a few years ago, got 178 at stealth, Vince said the throttle wasn't opening properly or something) and once a month at least it just cuts out, not stalls just dies. Always restarts though. I've thought about going down a turbo route later down the line so at least this will give me a good base line, even just for better throttle response and better torque curve as you say. Always had a bit of an issue with the ISV and the damper box - every now and then I'll go to start it and it'll struggle then I'll hear a bang as it pops the foam from the inside of the box..replaced it a couple of times already! Rich, as a side question, I had the catch can deleted from my engine, do I need to reinstall it with the OBD2 conversion?

Hey Rich, parts arrived yesterday however I wasn't impressed with the condition of the box upon delivery! You might want to have a word with UPS, I don't think they paid attention of the word 'FRAGILE' on the side... I have had a look and all seems ok, obviously I won't really know until its all bolted up which I'm hoping I can start next week.

Hey mate, don't want to step on your toes, you kinda made first refusal however i'm definately interested as it'll cure some issues with my engine!

What benefit does this give to the engine?

I still have this problem with mine, currently running it without the upper cover...have been for months :lol:

I tested the continuity on the cable and it was fine, there was 12v to the red/white cable at approx the correct temperature, and then red/black again at the correct temp, I never got any voltage showing on the red/green however. At one point the red/black was showing no power even though the temp gauge was showing 110 degrees. Also when there was power on the red/white (1st stage and aux pump/after run) as soon as I killed the engine the after run wouldn't come on and the aux pump was off? As I was getting power the second time around I plugged the connector back into the fan and they spun into life, disconnecting the rad switch so it got to a higher temp and plugging it back in the high (full) speed came on and then switched off, turning the low speed on every now and then. So its still not conclusive whether it is the control box or the fans????

OK so the plot thickens, went to test it all again as I wanted to be totally sure that it was all functioning and giving power when it should, I was getting power as the temperature was going up, thought what the hell and plugged it into the fan and woooooosh, they spun into life...WTH So something is working and something is temperamental, ideally I could do with being able to test my controller on another VR, or possibly it could be that a sensor is faulty and throwing up incorrect values for the controller?

Ok so I have a cooling problem, I am led to believe that my fans are completely shot now but I really want to rule out the controller before I go ahead and buy new fans. Is there anyone in the MK/Bucks area with a VR6 or even a golf VR that can help me for an evening and lend me the controller/swap controllers to see if mine is good/fans are good? Thanks!

Put power straight to the fans via 12v to all three connections; red/white, red/black and red/green and nothing. Started the car up and ran it till it got warm to the point when power should be fed to the fans and i got power to red/white, eventually got power to red/black but then it turned off? But never got power to red/green? The system got up to about 110 before I turned it off. I guess the fans are shot, but also shouldn't there be constant power to red/black once it turns on and what about red/green (big fat cable)? At no point did I hear or feel the control module click or anything to show the relays were working...

I thought it was relay number 15? I too thought that since the aux is coming on that the wiring is probably fine and the controller is happy enough to turn this on. Reading a bit more the low speed isn't even controlled by the module so it should have come on when I'd bridged it I'm going to try and force the fans to run later today, there are 4 connections, red/white is speed 1 direct from the rad switch and fuse 19, (30A hot at all times) so should have turned on when it was bridged, red/black is speed 2 from the controller and the red/green is full speed again from the controller, although as my system is only set up for 2 stage at the moment possibly 1 of these isn't utilized? I can use these connections to test the output on the controller whilst the engine is running and check for 12v and likewise feed power directly to each connection and see if it spins?

Any ideas?

Bridged the connections on the rad switch and the fans don't come on, connecting the red to the red/white cable the aux water pump comes on though? Red/black does nothing. Does this mean the controller is probably shot? Also should I have a run on relay?

I haven't no, its on my to do list when I get home from work though. Which connector do you mean? The wiring from the control module is pin # 1 (8 pin plug), I couldn't tell you the values of the senders in order to check if they're ok unfortunately, you could test it in hot water if you took it out and see whether it switched over at the right temperature (I've tested senders this way using a meat thermometer in the water and heated water on the hob).

I've also got a problem with my fans not coming on so I've been doing some investigating, looking at the diagram there should be 12v 'hot on' on the black/yellow chaser wire which is pin 4 on the large plug in the controller. The cables from the fan controller to the pump are correct; black/red chaser pin 1 to connector; red/black chaser to pump. Brown to each on head or block. Bridging the sender the fans should come on, which connections did you bridge? I believe it should be brown/black chaser and brown on the yellow plug?

Hey guys, as the title states, what wires are the best to pull an RPM and speed signal from? I've got a problem with my radiator fans so figured whilst I investigate I might as well continue with my climatronic AC install. Reading a bit more about the climatronic it is fed into the speed and RPM signals so I should connect these just to ensure that everything is working as it should. You can also use the climatronic to digitally show the speed and RPM using secret codes :lol: Looking at a wiring diagram its Blue/white chaser from ECU, pin 65 this then goes to a junction which splits; blue/white to f/b; white/blue to spoiler/stereo/cruise control; blue/white to f/b. THEN violet from f/b to cluster, pin 7. However the diagram for the cluster shows an additional white/blue chaser from the VSS to pin 27 via a white cable through the f/b? Which of these is the best wire to use? There is also a green/black chaser from ECU, pin 22 which states it goes to the tach but looking at the wiring diagram for the cluster it doesn't show where this goes, which pinout? Any ideas!

Thanks Jim I'll have a butchers. I've been meaning to look into my system anyway so I can wire in the aircon controls for my climatronic so seems like this is the opportune moment to do so!

Haha yeah me too, plus I'm car less at the moment too!

Do you mean aux pump? On a clear run on a motorway it's fine, as it should be but obviously that's no indication of anything working properly. I'll short the terminals tomorrow to test, already read a bit on the guide for reference so I'll use it as a step by step to rule out potential issues. Got it recovered home, didn't want to risk of sitting in traffic and it fully overheating, the break down man reckoned the controller although he had no way of checking anything apart from seeing that there was 12v on a sensor and the main fuse for the controller so I'll take that with a pinch of salt :lol:

I've checked fuse 19 and it's fine, that and the 20A one on the controller were both good whilst the others had blown. There is power at the 'big fixed fuse' (the one that is screwed on) so it's getting power. I imagine the aux pump works, wouldn't know though to be honest, but surely the standard pump will drive enough fluid through anyway especially as the whole system is hot and not just 1 half of the engine. I'm going to take the black sensor out and swap it for the brown 4 pin for A/C anyway so that doesn't matter but yeah, possibly just used to fill the spot?

Hey guys, as the title says, the fans aren't coming on. This is at neither the 1st or 2nd stages (and should be third but that's a different question!) I won't bore you with how I know, subject to say the warning light came on, filled it, came on again, filled it, did a test in a car park, 15 minutes to 120 degrees, warning light on, fans aren't turning on. I check the fuses and the 5amp is blown on the controller and the 10 amp after run is also blown. Swap these out and let it cool down for a bit, letting it heat back up again and still nothing, checking the fuses again and they're fine. Both top and bottom pipes are hot but this doesn't rule out a blocked/broken thermostat. Failing that it is an electric problem as 2 fuses were blown? The question regarding the 3rd stage is I have the black 3rd connector in the housing but there's no cable attached to it? It hasn't got AC (although I do plan on fitting the brown 4 pin sensor and wiring this in as I have climatronic fitted). It is also a later '94 car and according to the definitive guide all later cars were 3 stage? Any help would be much appreciated, currently 60 miles from home and will probably have to get it recovered! As although there is a nice 70mph motorway to keep things cool getting there proved too hot in the first place! (well, coming off the motorway anyways...) Thankfully the oil doesn't appear milky so looks like I've dodged a bullet there, I cannot see any leaking pipes or anything else untoward immediately.

The fact that you are pulling the system out of a 2002 passat shouldn't pose too much of a problem as it is the connections on the Corrado loom that I am interested in, ie whatever system will get installed the ECU needs to know to increase the revs of the engine when the AC is turned on regardless of what system asked for it, if that makes sense? Purple Tom had a fair bit of experience but got stuck at this point I think, I've done a lot of research not quite found the relevant information. I will be trying again over the summer so will be getting more stuck in then.

Hey mate a couple of questions, I fitted climatronic a couple of years ago but as of yet I haven't done the wiring for the actual AC just the fan and hot/cold/directional controls. How are you wiring the AC control in as it needs to automatically adjust the engine revs and radiator fans i thought? I've got a new brown 4 pin temp sensor which needs swapping out but the standard one has less connections (2 i think) so where do the others go? Any help will be much appreciated thanks!