h100vw

Uneconomical because of the cost of NEW parts. Different score when you use secondhand bits. 2 wings is like 600 plus paint, a pair of secondhand ones would be less than half that fitted. Some insurance companies wont even consider letting you have it back. Got to be worth asking. Lots have a policy of not letting the public have cars but traders often can get them? Agreed the charger could be worth 500 on it's own plus interior plus etc etc. Have you got the time and space to do this? Insurance is a complete diddle. If I ever have a bump, it's got to be worth paying to have the car recovered yourself, to somewhere you have access to it. They have you over a barrel when it's locked behind closed doors, so to speak. All kinds of bits go missing form them while the claim get sorted out. MOMO steering wheels were suddenly never there etc. Best advice is fight hard.. It's going to ocst you in increased premium for the next X years so make sure you get every penny you can. Gavin

Yeah, posession(sp) is 9/10ths.. Where is the car at? In a yard somewhere? Is it beyond repair? That's different to what the insurance company assess. Could it be put back on the road with bolt on panels or is the shell damaged. Have they offered/have you asked about having the car back. Maybe a grand and the car would be a deal they would go for? Gavin

I would use one without thinking twice. Gavin

Do you recon I could take the hub and suspension off attached so I won't have to get the camber reset? YES How easy is it to change the front bearings? Pretty simple, pull the circlip out and knock/press the bearing out. A bit of heat on the hub will make it a bit easier to do. You planning on using the press to get the old one out? Good idea if yes. If you plan on using a hammer, don't hold the hub in a vice, my mate had one fitted at a garage once and they bent the hub knocking the bearing out. Press is easiest way to fit the new one. Gavin

The VW ones will probably be the wrong style, curved rather than tapered like most aftermarket wheels seem to be. The likes of Halfords sell wheel bolts and lockers. Just makes sure the threads are clean when you fit the new ones. A tiny bit of copper slip is good and don't forget to check the bolts are tight after 100 miles or so. Gavin

Print out from VW should be easy to get. Any service desk can get it I think. I had one done on my MK3 16V, that's when I found out it was clocked :cry:

Do a search on autotrader.co.uk countrywide theres loads on there between 2 and 4 grand. Just print off the relevant pages. Ring one of the traders on there and ask them to value yours based on the mileage and pre accident condition. Tell them your looking to replace yours but your fighting the insurance company. I am sure they'll spill the beans. You want trade and retail prices. Ads from the VW mags will also be useful. Henny went through all this when he stacked J DUB. Had yours had money spent on it, shocks, charger rebuild etc? Any receipts you have to prove it was 'cherished' will be in your favour too. Best of luck Gavin

You wouldn't have to. Just take the wire off it. Drill the sump plug and thread it to take the sender in the middle. Are there any blanks in the top of your oil filter housing? You could get a sender from any GTI and wack it in there and run a wire into the cabin. Other solution use teh std oil temp sender and don't have the MFA read out working. Gavin

I once kicked off that all the breakfast stuff, cereal and toast had beened cleared away 'early'. The Sergeant came out to see what all the shouting was about. Then he told me to sit down cos dinner would be out in 5 minutes. Breakfast finished at 10 and dinner started at 11, course the clocks had gone forward.... Had to have humble pie with me chips and beans :roll: :oops:

Sitting here at work thinking it's chuffing quiet this morning. Then realised, due to having to clock in, I am at work an hour earlier than normal. :roll: :roll: Some would consider it a bind, thing is now there's no way my gaffer can press gang me into doing cover at time, it's all on the computer now, licence to print money. :lol: Gavin

The intank pump is part of the fuel contents sender. Gavin

Yes, no point in hotting up a motor with worn out plugs with gaps you measure with a ruler. etc etc. Gavin

The pumps are in the electrical items section 9 sub group 6. or do a search on pump. Gavin

Go for them, arrrrrgh :) Did he really think he was going to generate some work :roll: Gavin

Confusion between pressure and flow. Pressure is a measure of restriction as Olly says. Gavin

I cannot find an in tank pump for a 93 16V. The number I have is 191 906 091 H up to chassis, 50 L 005732 Going to search earlier and later cars now Gavin EDIT There is a pump 357 906 092C but I don't think it's clearly for the 9A. I could be wrong though..........

Boost is a product of engine speed. The faster you spin the charger the more you get. It whizzes to 9-10PSI cos it is making that already, just most of it is being bypassed back to the charger inlet. When you dump the pedal it shuts off teh return and everything goes into the manifold. Then the pressure rises as you accelerate. Easy?

The Syncro is easily the most expensive car I have had just with the fuel it gets through. Off the road following the discovery of the front tyres being nearly thought to the cords due to ripped to shreds rear wishbone bushes on both sides. I won't start the poly or std debate again. :mrgreen: Also done 320 quid on aircon parts in the last 3 weeks to no avail. A wife that doesn't work, 2 daughters and emigrating to Adelaide finish off any chance I have of buying myself anything.......ever. One day my number/s will be up :roll: Gavin

I am with Bill I am afraid Tom. :lol: The ISV might not be working? I would check the tickover speed by disconnecting the red/black wire by the coil on the bulkhead. The tickover should be nice and even with the wire disconnected. Be prepared for the engine to stall. If it does, wind the tickover screw out a turn and start the car again. Reconnect the wire after you are happy with the tickover speed. Gavin

Chuff, beat me to it. :mrgreen:

It'll do the VR6 so you'll get some ideas from it.

The wiring is similar across most VWs so a MK2 or Passat manual would probably do you. The Corrado Bentley would be the best though if you can get hold of one. Where are you? I might be able to fax you some of it from work? Gavin

When you go to a full throttle condition, it takes a couple of seconds before the ECU starts to ignore the lambda probe and go into open loop. This has been termed digi-lag by SNStuning.com in the states. They have re-written the code to remove it. YOU CANNOT FIT A 68MM PULLEY WITHOUT A CHIP! IT'LL RUN VERY WEAK AND YOU WILL BLOW SOMETHING UP...... I'd get a 68mm. Torx is a star shaped bit used for security as not everyone has them. Gavin

Only in that they don't have no lag technology like the SNS chips. If you fit one you'll still see a difference in the way the car runs, even on a std sized pulley. Chips are pretty easy to fit. You need some torx bits I think? Gavin

The reduced voltage to the fan may be deliberate. There are 2 speeds and only when the engine is really hot would the second speed be activated, unless the low speed switch in the Rad is kaput. Gavin