h100vw

No, providng the crank hasn't been damaged. The pullies seem to wear out before the crank luckily? You can do it from under the wheel arch. A good time to fit a new belt really as you need to de-tension it anyway. Get the DX bolt in and be prepared to buy a new pulley. Maybe ring VW and order one and don't go and get it if yours is OK. :mrgreen: Gavin

It could be bottoming out, 60mm is too far on std shocks. Maybe the top mounts are loose or the spring is too short to remain in place on full extansion of the strut. Bottom ball joints can rattle when they have gone. I had one on a Passat that knocked a bit going over speed bumps but was silent otherwise. Gavin

I am thinking that you have a problem with the cam timing. The glowing manifold is the key IMO. I suspect that the crank pulley may have moved. I suggest that you pull the plug from number 1 cylinder. Poke a longish screwdriver or similar item down the hole and turn the engine with a socket or rock in gear. You want to get the piston in #1 to TDC(top dead centre). Then check where the rotor arm is pointing. It should be pointing at a small notch in the body of the distributor. The reasoning behind my theory.... A mate had a 2 litre 16V mk2 that someone created out of a KR. It pulled like a train at small throttle openings but pinked badly if you went too far. We clocked an oil leak from behind the crank pulley. Having bought a new seal we pulled it apart and discovered there was no key left in the bottom pulley. I have had this myself on the Syncro. It went while I was driving it home from buying it. The crank bolt was little more than finger tight. Having 'created' a glowing manifold on a mates MK2 GTI years ago. We fitted a 4 branch and snapped a bolt off. Head removed to helicoil the hole. Head re-fitted and cam belt re-fitted. We pulled the intermediate shaft round ( in our ignorance) when doing the belt, the car ran like carp and the manifold looked like it was on afterburner. While you haven't mentioned pinking, the glowing manifold would hint at the mixture burning in there, rather than the cylinder. A really late spark. Seriously consider checking the tightness of this bolt and I recommend replacement with the DX bolt. Gavin

There's a fella on dubforce with dragster that he has fitted a blown ABF to. That's got an Mini blower on it. Seems to go Ok but I don't know how well it would fit transverselt. He is using an Audi gearbox so the motor is inline. Gavin

Finally. 8) Note to self, 'check fuel rails first'. :lol: Gavin

Bonnet switch is always the favourite. Try taking the wire off it and arming up. Assuming it does it on arming then I don't think it'll be the ultrasonics or microwave sensor. After the bonnet check the door switches and boot. Gavin

Are you mentioning these wheels or this car is 96 but with round side repaters (they are 15'' ) or Middle ones. I don't like them, no way to tell a 16V from an 8V, not that many have std wheels on them now. Gavin :D

All MK3s with the nasty multispoke wheels, whose name I forget have 288s. 8, 16 and VR6. The oval indicators is about the best clue as supercharged says. The Anniversary has 288s and 16s but not to clear the brakes. Gavin

Lambda probes and blue temp sensors are the usual suspects for this one. Gavin

You have to have a new gasket, the belt cant be more than 15, you should do the tensioner as well. I can't see it needing a set of 16 valves, half a dozen tops. Like I say I have some KR ones at home and I'll check ETKA but I think they are the same. You can have the lot for a tenner delivered. Seriously, if you have the money it has to be worth buying a modified head and using yours as the exchange. You woukd then have a head good for another 100K easy. The costs to fit either are the same. just the belt and tensioner to add. At 800 I'd be able to make money on the job, even with the petrol and digs. It's maybe a half day job to remove and fit, plus the cost of the engineering shop to do the valves, not too many places would do that in house. Gavin

Bummer. And there was me 2 months ago gutted NOT to get made redundant. I was angling for the payout and then could have had a contracting job at Heathrow on more money. Don't sweat it but don't kick back too far either. Listen to me with the 'dads advice' :lol: Gavin

Far easier to fit low comp pistons in a KR/9A block. The 'normal' route to doing a 16VG60 as far as I am concerned is to start with a G60/PG and use a KR motor and go from there. A lot less parts to obtain. Put 16V G60 into google and lose a day or 2 reading. Gavin

Should be. :lol: They should test it all anyway. Gavin

Air leaks can be a nightmare on vac locking systems. I think the pump is behind a panel in the rear quarter somewhere. Goodluck Gavin

Right then, as you say the passat handle won't lock the door, no lock. The boot won't lock them because it was never able to. The drivers door probably doesn't work because you didn't connect the cable up by taking the door panel off. What I recommend is, sit in the car and push down the drivers door lock button. I think you'll find that the pump runs ok. If it does then just get the alarm fitted and forget it. If the doors don't lock off the button inside then you do have a problem come alarm time. Gavin

Have you an alarm fitted at the moment or is it not locking off the key? Have you tried the passenger door? If it locks of the passenger side don't worry about it as the alarm will take care of things. Gavin

Valve guides tend to go before rings in my experience. What engine are you running? 16V/G60/VR? The 4 pot bottom ends are pretty robust, the VR is ok too, unless abused with infrequent oil changes. They all tend to do 100K plus before needing top end work. gavin

You haven't got a vac pipe to the ECU? Is that what you are saying veedub. If that true then I am surprised you are moving in your car. Tell us more...... Gavin EDIT seen you are 16V, still expecting a pipe to the ECU though. No wat for it to sense the load otherwise.

Kerchiiiiing, Good job I was sat down. :lol:

Difficult. Tell us the rest of the question, why do you want to know? GAvin

Have the toad or autowatch done tomorrow. The GT is too expensive and does no more than the others. The autowatch has an antihijack setting which is good once you get used to it. The GTs cost a bit more to buy in at trade but they aren't 100 quid harder to fit. I know cos thats the ones I use. When my stock is gone I'll be doing Autowatch purely on price. The digital bit refers to the siren trigger pulse, I think. It is a square wave output frm what I can make out. The older analogue sirens do nothing when you use a digital alarm with them. How do I know?:roll: 2p.

Mamps, which engine are we talking about here??? None of the 4 clinder engines will cost £800 to sort out. Even if you had to buy another head you could do it for well less than 500. On a 16V you have probably done 4 inlet valves. Of which I have some in my garage. TBH though. You would be as well, chopping the head in against a ported one. The other thing that could have gone would be the crank pulley bolt. Really need to know which engine and exactly what went wrong. Out of interest, what are they doing for the 800? Gavin PS don't spend anything without running it by the forum. We hate to see folk get turned over..... :x

A 4 pin, inline one. The earth bolts to the top of the engine mount.

If you think it could be the tappets, try dropping the sump and cleaning out the pickup for the oil pump. Obviously it'll need an oil change at the same time. I am not a big fan of additives personally. It's a bit treating the symptoms and not the disease. Have you got the right spec oil in it and when was it last changed? Gavin

Lambda probe is screwed into the cat. You can check the output of it with a digital voltmeter. Find the signal wire (purple/violet colour) where it comes out the top of that plug. Once warmed up the voltage should be changing between about .7- 1.0 volts. If not then chances are it's gone. When the car is warming up the output will be lowish and then climb as the probe heats up. Only when the engine gets towards operating temp will it start to oscillate up and down. Don't worry if you don't get a steady reading, it should be hunting constantly as the ECU alters the mixture to keep the CO correct. Gavin