h100vw

Only the ones that didn't know me, were actually able to move at all. Gits. Luckily it was about 10 to 1 and most people had already set off back up the hill to work. Only about 2/3s of the singlies on camp were actually there to see me on my ar5e. :oops: Got my own back on friday though, made everyone in my bay stay til 5 :mrgreen: Something about 'power corrupts and absolute power, corrupts absolutely'. I think it was Gene Hackman said that.

Its an ABF 16V out of a SEAT, it runs with digifant management. I don't think that cover will fit anything else TBH. Gavin

Steve and you usually find the easy way unquote. Did you take the tin plate off the bottom of the bell housing? Two 11mm bolts? Then break out the 1/4 drive socket set. Proper easy then. Just make sure the bolt holes are really clean of that oil and road muck blend that gets everywhere. I rinse the holes out with brake cleaner. Crossthreading them 2 can be bad news. Before I got my 1/4 drive socket set, I once cut a slot in the head of those 2 bolts to put them back with a big screwdriver :mrgreen: Got a name as a bit of bodger when I was younger. Now, I buy the right tools for the job first instead. Gavin

Have you tried adjusting the pot to minimise the dead spot Kev? Similar thing on motor bikes with carbs. Whenever you take one for a dealer service the grease monkeys introduce a mile of slack in the throttle cable so you've no idea when the throttle is going to open. Nasty to ride one thru traffic, a 4 stoke bike nearly stops dead at walking pace when you shut the throttle. I always adjusted it out before setting off to prevent embarassment. Although that didn't stop me dropping the GSXR when the front tyre slipped while doing a burnout for the lads outside the block. 'Get it off me and stop laughing before I charge you!' One of the benefits of RHIP, rank has it's priviliges :lol: Gavin

I guess this is what prompted the ABF question I just replied to. No, I haven't anything else to write down ....................................... :iamwithstupid: just about covers it. Gavin

I have an ABF MK3 16V, I think it is a top engine. Far superior in all aspects to the KR and 9A. It should be a straight forward fit, the only complication I can see would be the factory immobiliser. That can be got around by making sure you remove the engine from the donor and get everything yourself. If you are not sure if the engine is the immobiliser variant, get the number off the ECU and ask someone with ETKA to check it. Chip to 175 and fettle to 200????? Gavin Forgot to mention mine does 40 to the gallon between 70 and 80 and over 30 at a steady 90-100. In Germany :roll: What more could you want from a car?

Pumps are an hour to do on a 4 pot. G60 has a special one. Check the level and then the switch. Also it may not be the pump but a partially blocked pickup pipe. Gavin

There is a closed throttle switch on the TB. It obviously tells the ECU there is no throttle applied. This would have the ECU cut the fuel by not firing the injectors during the overrun. This is an economy measure. As the engine speed comes down to around 1500 revs or so then the fuel is re-introduced to stop the car stalling. If this cuts in too late(not adjustable) then it may feel that the engine is going to stall. Was a big issue with Pug 205 GTIs in the 80s, always stalling in traffic. The cure was to turn the tickover up a touch and hope that it stopped doing it. The other time it would come into play is when opening the throttle. As the switch opens the ECU would expect to see the engine speed up. If the switch was sticking closed briefly then the ECU wouldn't advance the sparks and up the fuelling. This would feel like bogging down. I would have a look for the switch, not a VR expert having never had one but it must be there somewhere. Check its operation. You should be able to hear it click open and closed. Gavin

The K-jet pumps run at a higher pressure. Not by much, I think they are about 70-75 PSI which is about 5 BAR. Thing is anything over what the FPR is set at just disappears. Flow and pressure both need to be considered when chossing the pump. I'd stick with the KR pump for ease but would do some research when you go turbo. The wiring should plug in but don't be surprised if you have some messing about with a Bentley manual to get it right. Ask gibber....... Gavin

http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewto ... crank+bolt Gavin

Bill, I use a 2.99 Netto one and it works ok. :lol: Certainly no different to the one I use on planes which cost a lot more. Gavin

That hissing is either the seal like you say, can buy the screw and seal from VW, nice one by the Little Chef or see if one from a 16V fits if you can find one in a scrappy. If thats not it then one of the pipes must be off/damaged. I rarely replace gaskets but again VW will be able to do them I am sure. It'll be on the pages of ETKA the spotty kid has never seen. His gaffer on the other hand, had a rear wiper arm and cover for a MK3 on the shelf when I asked. The loom from the plug above the probe goes straight to the ECU so that'll be an expensive replacement. Cutting back the loom and repairing shouldn't be that hard (says the aircraft electrician ;)). If you do need a new probe then it'll come with wiring on it and it might be easier to lengthen that and connect it to the ECU loom out of reach of the heat from the manifold. Full blend or plain rebuild. Depends on your funds today. You already have worked out the following I am sure but...If you intend to tune the nuts off it in the future don't do the job twice get the porting done. Not got the money now it'll have to be a std rebuild. It is not worth hanging on to find out the worst. £400 today or god knows how much next week. There are plenty of horror stories around about blown blowers. Gavin

I think this page is more important fellas. Test before replacement..... http://www.lambdasensor.com/main/mtesting.htm Gavin

Riley, don't go buying bits til you prove they don't work mate. You can check that probe out first. A Voltmeter can do it very easily and often its the wiring to the probe not the probe itself that is the issue. You really should consider getting what you have running perfect before blowing money on 'luxuries' :lol: A re-route won't be much use if the charger blows up cos you didn't have it looked at. The way to determine if your superchip is up to the job is by running the car on the rollers when you have had the charger done. If there are no holes in the curve and no weak spots noted by the probe in the exhaust then the setup will be safe. Only a change of chip or a full on mapping session will be able to tell if there is more power to be had. Everyone is hung up on numbers and it's not the full story. IMO anyone claiming 200 or more without some serious (Henny and stevemac as examples) money being spent, is just talking about it. My std engined Golf GTI G60 with stage 4, 68mm pulley and Jabba chip made 158 BHP at the crank according to Well Lanes rollers. With reds and a custom map it did 178 at ABG when Wayne Schofield was mapping it. It was substantially quicker than a std G60. Wayne maps Porsche cup cars here to ensure they are not more than 5% above original quoted figures from Porsche. All the cars in the series had to be run on Porsche rollers to confirm that no one was pulling a fast one. So I tend to believe ABGs rollers to be accurate. Spend your efforts getting your car running right before embarking on a modifying journey. By all means get he full blend done if you have the charger serviced, chips and pullies can be changed later. Gavin

Nastytastic.

The lambda probe has no effect in the first couple of minutes of running so I doubt that's it. It has to warm up before it works properly. The ECU ignores it until a certain water temp is reached. Try setting the tickover again, do a search on setting up or tickover adjustment. Gavin

The blue one is for the ECU. Try swapping the blue and black plugs round. Did it start to play up after replacing the sensors? Was it running ok prior to the replacements? Gavin

Thats what my syncro does too. It must be right :|

Matrix only about 40 quid from GSF

Changing the matrix is a dash out job, bad luck mate. The only thing carrying water inside the car, is the matrix so it won't be a pipe. The pipes on the matrix poke through the bulkhead and the rubber hoses clamp onto them. Gavin

If you set it wih a light then having the intermediate shaft a tooth out wouldn't matter. You find that the physical mark on the dissy rim won't be lined up but that doesn't matter to the engine if the sparks are at right time. Gavin

Thankyou, just need to buy the rest of the street and kick back :roll: Small matter of the deposits and off I go.

Just off the M6 north of Warrington. Only 40mins tops. Just bought a house in Burnley. Now a landlord :) Gavin

Only a couple of 13mm bolts to move the PAS pump. GAvin

Neil, where do you live? CGTI meeting at the Hermit in Hermitage Green tomorrow from 1400. I'll have a listen to your car if you can make it down. Gavin