h100vw

Ok then mate, a new 16V clutch cos the 20Vt ones are pants :mrgreen: The standalone stuff from Ben Leach comes mapped already. Gavin

VR6 clutch cos the 20V ones are pants. There are a few folk on here that ahve done this job. Bolting the bits in is easy but making it run can be a bit more complex. Ben Leach does a plug and play stand alone ECU for 20VT conversions which is mapped to take the 150 to 200 HP. Its about 6-900 quid I think. Might save some grief. It'll cost you around 4-500 to get one mapped anyway. He was supposed to be working on a conversion for 210/225 engines too. Not sure if that is sorted yet or not. I like the idea of standalone if you plane on doing a series of upgrades later then you can map it yourself if you dare!! Gavin Gavin

http://www.g-werks.com

The year code is the letter in the chassis number WVW ZZZ (insert year letter) W123456. The year code runs from August I think it is, thats why everyone gets wet pants about the MK1 Campaign and EW chassis numbers. 90 spec Golfs came out in late 89. Gavin

Oh yeah, I remember those rotor arms. First thing in the bin, not paying 4 times the cost of an ordinary one! :mrgreen: And no one else was prepared to either, I guess that's why the engines blew up then? I never tried to get to a limiter on my MK2 GTI with K-jet. It wouldn't rev much past about 6000 anyway. I did know about the short prime and that the relay had to see an input that the engine was turning or it killed the pump. I did a vehicle electronics course at college years ago and we did all kinds of stuff like this. Why did they change the prime from after ign off on MK1s to before engine start on MK2s? Is that just to improve starting in general, following line pressure drop? What about a 16V, as it has an ECU what about the pump relay? Does that have a rev limiter in it or does the ECU decided when you have had enough? :) I fitted VSAM on my 1800 16V Corrado and had it so the ignition timing would let you run well past 7000 and it never cut off on me even on trackdays. It'll never make me rich but all this information interests me greatly. It's also good for baffling the little kids when they turn up at CGTI meetings. :mrgreen: Cheers, RW1. Gavin

rev limiter, tell us about that RW1... GAvin

Who could tell just from the picture. Most people on here have already got one so I doubt you'd get jumped on the auction. Post a link Gavin

Boring Henny :mrgreen:

You can check the sensors from under the bonnet and under the back seat. Unplug them and check the resistances with a meter. Chances are one will be different to the other 3 and Bobs your uncle. No need to even get dirty. If they all check out then switch the meter to AC and jack each wheel in turn and spin the wheel. Check for an output on the meter. If the light doesn't go out at all then I reckon a sensor is dead. If it goes out and then comes on as you go through 10ish MPH then it may just be dirty. Either way I think you could diagnose it cleanly! Gavin

I would check the state of disks and pads first before starting the job. If doing it yourself then there would be no money to save on labour, just time at a later date. If you are paying for it, then yes replacing the fronts would incur no additional cost. The rears however, would have to have bearings fitted prior to fitting which would take a short while. The ABS cage would need transferring too. Have you a fault on your ABS? If not then don't mess with them would be my advice. The system knows when it has a problem and the light stays on. Cleaning in my opinion(electronic engineering) would not make them work any better if there are no faults. Gavin

Did the 1551 snag the CPS? Some pressure in the rail, did you undo something to prove that? The pump should prime when the ign is switched on. After that it should only run with the engine turning. Could be part of the pump relay failed. If you jump the contacts in the fusebox, then try it, it might run. Proving the relay to be the fault??? Or pull the cover off teh relay and look for dry joints which are pretty common... Failing that, RW1 will be along soon I am sure :mrgreen: Gavin

Spend 5 grand on the C and drink the rest? :drinking: 20Vt conversion with 4wd?

All bits of trivia you wold expect on a 14 YO car. All easy sorted. Did they quote you for fixing it? Get a Passat handle or a repair kit from dave16v. Tighten bearing up. Fit spare wheel. 50p exhaust rubber. Remove steering wheel and bend contact out. Sort teh wheel arch and weld a patch on the sill. Make up a brake pipe and bleed brakes. New pads. £100 tops. GAvin

Fingers crossed

92526 IGNITION COIL/TRANSFORMER CO VR6 -Distributor 120.00 GSFcarparts.com Whats it doing mate?

http://www.dubforce.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=3187

Aye, Darren and Steve have spent a lot of time and effort researching these chargers, it just wouldn't be worth trying to save a tenner in th elong run. I think they were doing a group buy on the Spray either on dubforce, here or pitstopdevelopments.com.. Gavin

I wouldn't mate. If I were you I'd just get on the phone/email Darren and get the right stuff. GT85 is well thin, not at all like the stuff they supply which is more of a spray grease. Gavin

Local specialist is coming over later with the 1551. Anyone with me on the dissy? Evens Ign switch 3/1 coil 5/1 pump relay 5/1 Anyone else?

A hard fault like that should be easy to sort. I would, if I were a betting man, stick a fiver each way on the dissy. No output from the hall sender = stop. The Crank position sender is somewhere on the front of the motor I thnk under the alternator. There are 3 plugs above the front engine mount 2 are for knock sensors, the other looks to go to something under the alternator which I guess is a crank position sender. Hook it up to VAGCOM and see what it thinks is broken is the quickest way to find out. Gavin EDIT can't find a CPS on a (guessing 95) ABF passat in ETKA

Defo get that crank bolt done. For less than a fiver, it is the cheapest insurance going. If the belt goes quiet with a few drops of water, I wonder if the belt is an aftermarket one. These tend to be smooth, where the OE ones have a crosshatching effect on them. On my Golf, I fitted a belt from GSF which was smooth and it sounded like a flock of budgies. My syncro doesn't make a sound in the belt dept. Thats with an OE type belt on it. The idler pullies are not that much from GSF 13539 RIBBED BELT IDLER PULLEY CO G60 15.75 You need 2 of them. VW number 037 145 276A don't know how much, more than 16 quid tho. GSF ones are OK IMO. Gavin

G60 pumps are the same as a VR and supercharged VRs do 300 ish BHP so I would think that a G60 pump would be good for it with a 20VT. Gavin

Glad you sorted it Phil. Mines been in the landfill about 10 years now :lol: I'll stick with me Oxygen pipe, never failed me yet. Gavin

Whenever I used an easy bleed it was crap. It filled the reservoir right up so it spilt fluid everywhere as you took the cap off. If you connected a car tyre to it again it blew fuild everywhere cos the seals onto the reservoir were no good. I did sort of get it to work with a bike inner tube with less pressure. Now I always use the pipe work you see in ER. The one the guy that's just about to die is breathing through. It's ribbed(?) on the inside so it won't collapse. I find that generally gravity does most of the job for me. Sometimes the back is hard to do because of the bias valve. This is worst if you have changed the rigid lines and have no fluid in the system at all. Gavin

All relative questions matey. The chip and pulley will make the car much more driveable in all conditions. 160BHP just wasn't enough IMO. Anymore though would have encroched on VR territory. If you have the extra get it flowed, can't comment on the difference it makes cos I have always fitted a 68 and chip when going from std. You mention stage 4, not going to Jabbasport are you? :wink: Gavin