h100vw

No, lots had dealer fit ones and the majority would have had one fitted by now for insurance purposes. Gavin

Do you mean PSI or BAR. 25 PSI would be no good for fuel injection as far as I am aware. Summittracing.com have all kinds of gear like that though. Gavin

Either 75 or 90. Give me the engine code from the log book, service book or data sticker in the boot and I'll look it up. Gavin

They are about £200 for a kit. Superior carb in all respects. More power and better consumption too. A fella I know had one on a carb Jetta years ago, he threw loads of brass at it. Finally going for the Weber and regretting not shelling out on that first. I had told him. Gavin

I don't reckon the BTS would kill the rev counter. I am leaning towards the hall sender and ECU relay. Realy first based on cost and ease of replacement. The G60 dissy is the same as an 8Valve PB engine, so don't pay extra for one cos it's going on a G60. Often seen them on ebay. Gavin

He can also unload it on the next highest bidder anyway. Gavin

Phil, I like them too, Club Sport and M030 . Black would be my choice... MMMM nice

I bought a Cupra on tuesday. A Y reg 180. Seems to be a goer. Not sure whether I'd run it long term as it's not as solid feeling as the MK3 GTI I have. Good value IMO at 4K for a 5 year old one, leather, air no computer though but I guess they have to leave some benefits to bying a VW or Audi. Could spend a bit on it to make it faster. The std wheels look pretty pants but that needn't be an expensive fix. The R would be better with the 225 motor. Not sure an R would be cheaper than a 225 TT, I saw one last week for less than 10K and it was a RHD too. I think you could make a TT non-hairdresser with the right addons and a matt black respray. :lol: GAvin

If you were looking for a way around the factory immobiliser, Custom-code.co.uk can do that on the std ECU. You just send it to them. You can have the ECU chipped at the same tiime if you want. Gavin

Doesn't look that bad to me but a tiny bit of burning oil does stink. I'd clean the area up first with some degreaser and then run it. It might be easier to see the problem if it's clean. There is a bit under the breather outlet too, that might want a clean out too. Gavin

The major components, head and block aren't interchangeable with the PG motor but if you stick the whole lump in then it's a goer!! Don't bin the PG though, fix it up as a spare. Gavin

No worries and apologies for calling you Cai, when clearly you are in the wrong country... :oops: :oops: Gavin

Cai, just buy the rubber hose and replace the one in your line. Jubilee clips will replace the std ones. There won't be owt wrong with your hardware. Gavin

See attached pic

Get another engine dropped in it. Rebuild yours with another crank and flog it to recoup some of your outlay.

All the 1781cc cranks are the same, PB KR etc. A scrap motor would fix you up for pennies. A good time to get a flowed head on there? You can get PG motors for what I think is reasonable money. Plenty of folk have blown chargers which means the engines are somewhere. Gavin

I wouldn't tap into the ECU line. VW state the length of the pipe on ETKA for a reason. Adding Ts and pipework will be adding volume to the ECU line and may/probably does affect fuelling. I have driven a G60 Syncro Golf that had an ECU pipe that was 85cm long and it ran like a dog. My own G60 Golf had one that was 95 cm when I bought it. It didn't run any different that I could detect, after I replaced the pipe. Again though, VW didn't state use a metre for no good reason. As for tapping into the FPR feed, your choice, I wouldn't be happy introducing another connection in there that may leak, on any forced induction vehicle that could lead to a weak mixture and engine damage. Gavin

I don't think I have ever heard of any. If they do exist, then I would expect them to come from the States. Is there even room to fit some in? There is a very good reason for using 4 valves per cylinder... Gavin

A function on ETKA, lets you see where else a part is fitted if at all. See screen shots on how to get to it.

Water in the handbrake cable may stop the cable from moving after you pull it up. If you can push the arm through the wheel, it'll probably release the brake. TBH I rarely use a handbrake for fear of the bloody things sticking. In the extremes of Norway I'd just leave it in gear. If you get it in the garage you may find the slightly warmer temps allow the brake to free off, if it is the cable frozen. Gavin

191 919 149D screenshot attached

put the number in atp and it'll say if it is fitted elsewhere.

not normal scoobies I can confirm that. :mrgreen:

M62 not far away, eh Gazza.... just use a hacksaw on the cam, cut through like butter. I bet Andy has an air one somewhere, easier still. Gavin

It should be fitted in the cat, access from the right side of the car. Plug sits on the engine mount on the same side. Gavin