h100vw

Running without the pump turning would cause the water to overheat. It won't flow around the engine on it's own. I wouldn't worry about the head, until you stick a belt back on it and try it.

I wouldn't do the crank seal personally. Need to remove the cambelt pulley and bolt, you know, the one that can break and spoil your day etc. Cam seal is easy never done a IM shaft one. I think you could be heading for a world of hurt.... Gavin

Because the power for the dip and main beam runs through the stalk regardless of the headlight switch position. The sidelights also have some control from the stalk for the parking light facility. I'd have the cowls off and make sure you have connected the indicator stalk. Gavin

There isn't any relays, that's why the lights are crap from the factory. Most likely problem is the stalk. Gavin

If you need valves, I have some in my garage somewhere which you can have for the price of postage. > Don't get caught up in big engines at your time of life. Everything comes to he who waits.!! My advice is to start learning about cars so you can do this stuff yourself, rather than paying someone £40 and hour. It's amazing what you can learn from a Haynes. Maybe even go to college for some night schooling. When I was at Tech, some years ago :roll: , you could take you car down there and have the apprentices work on your car for free. You just paid for the bits and some beer. The instructors used to keep their eye on things. When I came out of the RAF and did my car mechanics C and G at Catterick, it was just like working in a garage. Squaddies were in all the time getting stuff done. I made a few quid too. > Gavin

Eucalyptus oil gets oil and grease out a treat. My missus gets through loads on my clothes. Smells good too. Downside: Koalas try to hump your leg :lol:

upping the CR will gain power but the timing and fuelling have to be correct. A higher CR may also mean having to use better pertol if you don't already. Gavin

My trade guides don't go back far enough to give a value on that motor. Something like parkers.co.uk would probably go back far enough though. On a car that old you have to buy on condition. So if it has 4 good tyres the exhaust isn't on it's last legs and it starts first time. The V6 goes well but isn't very economic. If you want a lazy cruiser it would tick the boxes. For the same money you could be in a TDI Passat of the same era which would be cheaper to run in all respects. I am biased towards Passats though. :mrgreen: Gavin

Something not quite right with that then. Not sure if the roof on your year C should be part of the total closure. The early C is definately not. The face lift interior cars do I thnk. I suspect there is something, possibly in the disused alarm that is shutting the windows via the window controller in the drivers side rear panel. Can't say much more without having the car in front of me. Gavin

They should have the head off in under 2 hours easily. The head can be skimmed with the valves in usually, taking the cams out should have all the valves out of harms way. You can certainly do this on an 8V, it's a while since I looked at a 16V. The headset from GSF would be sub £50 and £50 tops for a skim. £50 extra to do the belt isn't bad, I am surprised they don't insist on doing the belt and tensioner anyway. A lot of places wouldn't warrant the belt after it has been de-tensioned, leading to an increased risk of failure (loss of reputation). If you were handy then you could do it for just over £100 all in. If you're not then £400 doesn't see too bad. Have we had the 'who says it's on it's way out' conversation already? Gavin

I guess that's a welcome side effect then. :roll:

http://www.ndimports.com/00_global/index.html I'd call ND about your lights. They used to do relay kits and Euro lights. I can't find them on the site now but it's not that far to go from the Bay Area. I d id it when I was in SF in 2000. Gavin

You feed the amp with the signal you want amplifying. The amp does it's job and you run this signal through speaker cable to each speaker. Six speakers will require a 6 channel amp or someway of splitting the output, like a crossover. TBH a lot of modern head units have pretty adequate amps built in. Unless you are feeding big bass speakers. Gavin

What he says! :D

Are you saying the windows roll up when you turn the ign off? That's not normal. It sounds like the drivers handle may be worn out/dieing/dead. There is a switch in it that triggers the CL. If the return springs get weak, I have seen locks that only need breathing on to make them operate. Have you got an alarm fitted, even one that you don't use? Gavin

Without some tolerance the thing would blow up. Gavin

How 'limited' is the 'limited' capability of the non genuine leads?? Does it restrict you to early model cars and not 1.8Ts etc? Is it worth the saving or is a pukka lead worth the additional outlay for the better function. I have borrowed a proper lead off a mate before but if the cheapy does the same job then...... Gavin

Are you sure it was paint Steve? The displacer looks unusual after 100Ks worth of sh1t has been mashed around in there. Gavin

Can you qualify 'all over'? The name implies that it lubricates. Smoothering the whole scroll wouldn't do a great deal as it is only the teflon strips that actually touch anything. Grease anywhere else would just be squeezed about. The scroll doesn't (shouldn't) touch the casing. I am not the expert but I have rebuilt several chargers in my time. I used the spray grease given to me with the kit I bought and only sprayed the surfaces where the strips would touch the casing or scroll. Gavin

Give us a budget and let us pick your next car! Gavin

Where the sealing strips meet the casings/displacer. Gavin

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. There may be something special about the VAG bearings but I can't see it? There was a problem with the early G60 engines wearing the big ends but most of them were sorted under warranty years ago. Gavin

If the chain is under tension because you were just turning it in one direction, the chain won't move. You have to do it with no tension on it. The way I do it is squeeze together the top and bottom runs, between the chainwheels and then see how far it pulls off at 90deg. Those cams are a swine to get just right. One or other always rotates off a bit as you do up the cam bearings. Having it one tooth out makes a big difference to the running. The sprockets don't seem to wear like on a motorbike, maybe the constant oiling has something to do with that? Gavin

mike did you get a price from VW?????????? They are a tenner a set from GSF and a tenner each plus VAT from VW!!!!!!!!!! Gavin EDIT sorry, I lied. They are 14.50 plus VAT. :lol: 16193C CON ROD BEARING SET-STD G3 1.9 TD/TDi 1Z/AAZ Engs. 91> 14.50 Gavin :lol:

They way to check chain wear is measure 'X' links and they have to be under 'Y' in length. Or Half way round the sprocket, pull the chain at 90 deg and see how far it comes away from the sprocket. There is no limit that I am aware of but a new chain doesn't move much more than a couple of mm. Gavin