h100vw

Thankyou lord, it keeps me off the streets and food on the table :lol:

Chuffing forum

Even on a 2005 edition?

Even on a 2005 edition?

Try route 66?

I reckon the switch refers to the scale so th etop picture is .6ish Gavin

I said sorry at the time :oops:

or vehicle wiring products do the right stuff that is self-extinguishing.. Gavin

one on ebay for 200 buy it now!! big hammer I think. Gavin

I wouldn't write it off mate. A wing and possibly a bumper should see it sorted. Else I'll bung you 500 for it?? :roll: Obviously new bits will cost the earth but if you are prepared to accept good 2nd bits theres no reason to put a bullet in it. A wing and a bumper would be circa £200 paint and fit same again? Cheaper still if you hang out for bits in the right colour. Gavin

Tempest, if you try and drive it with the BTS disconnected you'll notice a difference. You stop the ECU advancing the timing with engine speed and it sticks at 6 degrees or whatever it's set to. There'll be kids on bikes leaving you for dead. :lol: It allows you to do the basic setup, timing, tickover and mixture. Gavin

Exhaust on the back axle due to poor fitment or broken rubbers? Gavin

The worst part of doing the waterpump on a G60 is having to take off the charger and probably the air con compressor on a US spec car. After that it's pretty much as for a std NA GTI. It would probably take you a couple of hours solid, depending on how much cleaning of the removed parts you do before putting them back on. AFAIK there is only one pump for a G60. The only way it could be a different number is if you just buy the pump without the housing. I don't recommend this as you always come across siezed bolts that snap off. Gavin

Have you disconnected the BTS??

Don't do it.... Buy a real back box designed for the car. Supersprint ones are supposed to mate to the std system if you just want a BB. Otherwise I would say get a full system. Jetex are reasonable money and then there is the whole Magnex/Milltek debate but so I don't get slagged by the MODs I won't go further... :mrgreen:

No probs, best bet if you like meddling with your car is to get the Bentley. You may like me only use about 6 pages but it saves laods of money in the long run. Gavin

Tom, I am in York Saturday 9th, I'll bring a few tools with me if you like. Timing light and DVM. Gavin

1. makes no difference where you check it. Just a bit of a lag with the tailpipe cos of the distance. 2. 6 degrees +- 2 I think at tickover. With the BTS off. You should also check the advance at 2500-3000. From memory cos the Bentley is at home, 30 + the base setting. 3. More guessing, 1%+- .5 Yep the CO pot in the inlet pipe. The reason for setting it to 500 Ohms is because not everyone has access to a CO meter. 500 Ohms is a best guess and no substitue for doing it correctly with a CO meter. 4. 900+-50 seems good to me. IMO as long as it isn't stalling or sounds like it's going to fast it'll be ok. Not like it spends that much time ticking over anyway. Adjusting one may alter another setting, ie more fuel will increase tickover, so you need to alter all three in conjunction with each other. I would start with the timing, as that is not influenced by the other 2. And for Toms benefit, use the search. It must have been done a million times the G60 set up thing. :lol: gavin

Fellas, Scorpion bits can be obtained from 01257 249 928. I think they are called electro systems. Gavin

On the back of the WUR is a thin metal cap. Under this is a 4 or 5mm allen key. With this you can adjust the warm control pressure. Reducing it will increase fuelling throughout and increasing the control pressure will.......... have a guess. TBH I don't think you should mess with this if you don't understand how it works. If you have access to a K-jet fuel pressure gauge then at least if you get it wrong you can restore the original settings.. Gavin

Glad you are happy Dave. I'll keep schtum about the phone calls. :wink: Gavin

Sweet. :mrgreen:

I would be quite confident stating that there is a failed bonnet, boot or door switch causing the alarm to trigger. Try disconnecting the wire on th eonnet switch first and see what happens then. Gavin

I think you need to start from scratch. First check is the timing of the engine. I want to rule out a crank pulley failure. Another thing to check is the closed throttle microswitch on the Throttle Body. This tells the ECU whenthe throttle is closed, obviously. If the switch fails the ECU won't advance the timing which will prevent the engine from accelerating. Verify and clean all the engine earths. You also need to check the output of the lambda probe. You can do this with a digital voltmeter if you can get one. Probe the signal wire and the voltage should be staedy for a while and climd slowly before appearing to become erratic but not going much over a volt. Gavin

My syncro didn't know what had hit when I shelled out on a new battery. That 8 volt system just didn't cut it really. :roll: Sounds like a MK2 Escort with 24volt starting to overcome the monster compression. Gavin