h100vw

Not usually, if there was a fault on say a VR, I think that X trouble free starts would cause the code to go away. I could be wrong. If there is a fault code stored and the probe is now working, then the ECU will recognise that and function normally. Gavin

I bought a MK3 8V GTI with only one key. I went out of my way to use a dealer in Blackpool that my mate uses, the key has a transponder and they can only be coded at VW now. Pete did me a deal true enough but the mechanic took over an hour to code the key up. I was wondering WTF was going on until I got the list. No brake lights!!! Blowing exhaust, leaky shock, anti-freeze weak mixture and a couple of other bits. He said they got pulled up a few weeks earlier in some quality inspection and were now having to go OTT to meet some target they were set. He was also obliged to quote me, even though he knew they wouldn't be getting the work. I had to sign a disclaimer to get my keys back because of the brake lights. Which turned out to be a double blown bulb situation. I took my self to Halfords for those on the way home. I hate to think what they would be like on an MOT. Gavin

1800 or 2 litre?

Water is a product of combustion, so all exhausts will produce steam. It is more likely to be a small leak at one of the water outlets on the head IMO. How long is it taking to put the warning light on? If the matrix was going it is likely that you would smell the coolant in the car and the windows would steam up. Had mine go at a oner on the motorway. Most frightening to suddenly be in a sauna. Gavin

What about spinning the engine over on the starter and hoping it lifts the head off with the compression? What engine is it, G60?

Does this picture help?

I don't think the outer CVs will fit in the MK1 hubs. Also not sure if the MK2 hubs will fit the MK1. That is the best way to do it. I paid 800 just for an engine and box when I did mine in 96. Where I bought an engine and ancilliaries off ebay before Christmas for 120.... Having the MK1 and MK2 Haynes manuals is also a good idea when doing the wiring. Gavin

Except there aren't many in the UK. I did one years ago, you need a 4 branch really, Ashley do a cheap but effective one. Keep the 16V box if at all possible as the ratios are correct. You should use the drive shafts from a late Cab or lateish Scirocco(100mm diameter cups on the box). Will need to use outer CVs to match as the Mk2s won't fit. Retain the idle stab wiring which goes into the centre console on the MK2s. I'd just use the MK2 metering head mounted on the LHS of the engine bay, I got some braided stanless fuel lines made up from the pump to the metering head and back. Consider a brake upgrade, although I have a mate with a Turbo Technics mk1 that runs std brakes. If you would swap your own engine then this is not much more than a weekends work. I'd try a get the 16V clocks in the dash too. Gavin

Easy go 30-40 mm on those rims I reckon. What width tyres you getting? Gavin

What did you measure the votage with? Can't see the battery going like that. Even if it were flat only the current would increase not the voltage. If you are reading the voltage set to DC and there is an AC component in the reading, it'll read higher. This is like the difference between AC and RMS voltages, one is .707 of the other. Gavin

The warmed up but is more interesting to me but check the relays anyway. When you first start up the ECU waits for the lambda probe to heat up before it gives reliable signals. It judges this by looking at water temps. The BTS doesn't register until about 50deg. This takes several minutes in which time the probe should be well up to temp. Poor/no signal from the probe would cause the ECU to overfuel for protection of the engine but not your wallet!! :mrgreen: I would also look at the wiring to the probe as it goes Very brittle with age/heat. You can monitor the output with a voltmeter set on DC. Look at the purple signal wire, from cold it will have a steady voltage close to zero. As it heats up the voltage climbs towards 1 Volt. Once up to temp the voltage will hunt up and down between about .5 and 1 volt. Your meter won't be able to keep up but you will be able to see the trend. If you rev the motor the voltage will go up to a volt(rich). On the over-run the voltage will go to zero until the revs drop to about 1500. Then, with a closed throttle it'll start hunting again. The black smoke is sort of leading me away from the relays and dissy. Although it could be 2 snags???????????? Gavin

The relays are all on the fusebox on the drivers side of the car.

The ECU stores faults I think so maybe you can get them read with VAGCOM? A wheel sensor is likely to be duff as you say. Have you done all the brakes? You could try disconnecting and re-connecting all the plugs and a quick sqirt with some contact oil from Maplins or RS? Works great on Aircraft!! :mrgreen:

Neither of those other snags would cause it to stop running completely that I am aware of. A bad Lambda sensor would cause it to run rough/rich IIRC and a bad temp sender can be proved by swapping the plugs over with the gauge sender. My money is still on relays dissy or possibly the ign switch. Gavin

There is a lump of steel or something on the plate. Not sure of the purpose, maybe to increase torque?? It would reduce airflow I guess but whether there would be any gain from removing it I don't know. You can just stick in the plate from a KR TB. If you take off the elbow onto the TB and have a look in you'll see it, may have to open the throttle as I think it's on the back of the plate. Gavin EDIT I can see where you are going now and if it were my turbo C I'd remove it if one is fitted. The 2 litre one is no bigger, so no use to you.

It could still be the distributor, also consider the ECU relay and the fuel pump relays. Either could have dodgy soldered joints in them which are intermittent. If you are not upto it yourself have someone replace them with known good ones. Or cheaper still remove them, take the plastic covers off and touch up all the soldered joints. I would look at the relays before the dissy as you can substitute them or usually repair them for nothing to prove they were at fault. Gavin

The same except the small plate on the 2 litre has a big lump on it.. IIRC Gavin

You won't have relays in every slot, it depends on the spec of your car. Gavin

You could get the engine and box for around £500, there is a bumped MK3 16V on autotrader for 550 at the moment. Fitting it is no biggy. It'll all plug into the fusebox AFAIK. I bet you could get someone to do it for less than a grand. It would take 2 solid days to DIY. Gavin

Which part number do you need madjackal, I have a G60 Golf one in my garage you can have cheap if it is the right one. Pretty sure it's a non-EDL one. I have ETKA so can check the numbers out. Do you know what's up with your ABS? Gavin

no mate

All the rotor arms on 16Vs are glued on by the factory. You need to crush them to get them off. I can't think of any 5 pin plugs by the airbox either. Only thing there IIRC is the over-run cutoff valve that dumps the metering flap. Gavin ONLY 5 pin plug on that loom from the fusebox that I can find is for the wiper motor.

I go round one bend on the way home from work, the M56 onto the M6 Northbound. The fastest I have been round it is 80-85. You could probably squeeze another 5mph out of it if you wore blinkers so you couldn't see the barriers. I have done that speed in all the following cars over the last 7 years 2 litre MK1 lowered, 1.8GT Passat std (and 150K), Syncro Passat std and lowered, Golf G60 std and lowered to death, MK3 16V lowered, 1.8T Passat sport std(125K) and 1.3 Polo breadvan std etc etc. I have chased a 968 Porsche round there in my G60 Golf and he couldn't get away and I could see him trying. So really the speed hasn't varied at all regardless of the vehicle or suspension. The only difference is the amount of lean. It is much more a question of driver ability than suspension, were Ayrton Senna still alive, do you think you would get past him in a std VR6 with a modified one? Not a chance in hell. Not without a shortcut anyway!! :lol: Gavin

http://cgi.ebay.de/TUNING-CHIP-Golf-3-G ... dZViewItem How about one of these RB. Almost cheap enough to throw away if it doesn't do anything. Gavin

The fuelling systems of the 2.0 and 1.8 are very different, the 2.0 has lambda control and can be chipped. The 1.8 ECU cannot be messed with but the fuelling can be adjusted within limits to improve performance. The best way to alter the KR management is with a piggy back system such as VSAM or Kstar. Gavin