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h100vw

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Everything posted by h100vw

  1. Depends who is looking to buy it. A trader would offer you book value and you'd be lucky to see 1500/2000. Others might see that they could buy it and inspite of the mileage realise that most of the bits that fail/wear have been replaced already. Saving them a tidy sum. In which case it would be worth more to them. A car of this age will pull money on condition and I would think that you could get circa £3K. You should certainly aim to sell to an 'enthusiast' over Joe Public. The Autotrader probably not the best place to get the most money although the coverage is excellent. Gavin
  2. No bleed points so crack the return pipe at the pump and catch it coming out of there. As you top it up it'll pump round. You could just flick the starter with the dissy plug off to stop it firing. After you fill it, turn the steering lock to lock to work out the air. Gavin
  3. I bought a 16v mk3 that turned out to have 150K on it, not the advertised 78. It went like a rocket and had a full VW history up until the clutch change 6 weeks prior to me buying it. One of the best cars I have had. I like big mileage cars myself for the reasons Yandards has posted. In constant use a lot less things go wrong. Gavin
  4. 28296 EXH RUBBER HANGER MOST MODELS 0.50 Add 28296B EXH RUBBER HANGER-REINF MODELS USING 28296 2.00 Add 21246B SILENCER-FRONT+DOWN PIPE CO 16V 4/89 > 125.00 Add 21508 CATALYTIC CONVERTER CO G60 >1/91 185.00 Add ************************************************************** 21513 CATALYTIC CONVERTER CO 2.0 16V 9A Eng. 8/91 > 96.00 *********************************************************** 22234B SILENCER-FRONT(BQ) CO 16V All 23.50 Add 25328 SILENCER-REAR CO 16V >7/92 82.50 Problem solved??
  5. Dropping the engine is a bit hammer to crack a nut. That would turn an hour job into an all day and night one. Only need to pull the engine if the crank is damaged. Gavin
  6. h100vw

    Redrilling discs

    I don't see why it'd be a problem. There was a site in the states that sold off the shelf 4 stud 288s. I can't remember who though. Can you not get 4 stud 312s off a Seat of some kind? Gavin
  7. My G60 you could only just hear it on a whiff of throttle at 1800-2500 revs. I noticed it most just after setting off from home. There is a set of lights 75 yards away and it wasn't worth changing to second, so I dribbled up to the lights in first. They were wasted though when I took them out. They are made of soft metal so as to stop the crank getting damaged. Gavin
  8. It would have to have been knocking for a fair while or run without oil to total the crank. You can re-use the bolts, I did in my G60 with no issues. For the money though it's not worth the trouble. I couldn't get mine as I had it in bits the night before a trackday and had to get it back together. Gavin
  9. Nah, 10quid for the bearings, get a sump gasket and if you are feeling real flush a set of rod bolts and nuts too. Total under 50 quid. Gavin
  10. Don't stop there MelG60, tell us more, links etc. Gavin
  11. Headlight loom is the next step, see my sig. I assume you meant uprated bulbs. Gavin
  12. Not Schrick but does the same job. http://www.pipercams.co.uk/NewPiperWeb/ ... rames.html Gavin
  13. I used to get that sometimes, my chip was based on an SNS. It didn't do it if you came off the throttle slowly....... Usually worst in 5th, coming back into orbit, from a top speed check :mrgreen:
  14. If you chop the fat bit off the top, there won't be anything to grip the piston so the bumpstop will be free to move and the dust shield won't do anything. You might be able to glue the bumpstop to the piston?? Did you get advice from C&R? Gavin
  15. Supersprint sound very sensible IMO. You can delete boxes and have link pipes if it is too quiet!! Gavin
  16. No reason it should be difficult. Just get all the bolts started before you tighten any all the way. That way you can move the sump about a bit when necessary. Gavin
  17. Cam change would be cheaper and more of a home job. Do a search on 'exhaust inlet cams' or PM flusted. Gavin
  18. Deep socket, 3/8ths drive, remove the plug leads carefully. Undo the plugs, refit the new ones. The hard part can be getting the socket off the plug after you have done it up. I have a snapon extension that holds the socket on, so that doesn't happen. Gavin
  19. Have you got the reg number off it? You could check with VW what history they have on it. Without any history it is worth less money but that doesn't mean it's a bad car. Gavin
  20. A loose wheel bearing might feel the same. The duff angle of the wheel knocks the pads back, as the speed drops it's easier for you braking to stand the wheel up, so the pedal sinks. Gavin
  21. HPI check it, people do lay cars up for the weirdest reasons. Check the log book is in his name. If he can prove ownership, no reason not to buy it. Gavin
  22. Do a search for PSI tuning and get yourself over to see Andy Walker in Newcastle. He'll give you some good options. This one might do for a cheapish job. Andy saw the car in question, it didn't run perfect but wasn't fitted by experts either. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= Gavin
  23. That shouldn't happen normally. I wonder if the cam timing is out or maybe the bottom pulley has moved?? The pulley bolts are dodgy on all 4 cylinder VWs of this era. Maybe you should start from scratch and check the physical timing of teh crank and cams. Gavin
  24. VAGCOM can't do much on the 9A IIRC. One is for wide open throttle, the other for a closed throttle.
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