h100vw

What work do you need doing? Electrics in general, alarm, engine wiring? MAybe we can help without the need of a 'professional' Gavin

Steady with the compliments :oops: I do think if it was going to blow it would have by now. Another big up to Darren for taking time out from nappy changing to ring me back so late on a friday night. When he should have been catching up on his sleep!!! Some kind of customer service that!! Or did he forget to turn his phone off? I am sure the inlet housing bearing is the one responsible for the noise. Mine made a horrible noise last year before the rebuild. No doubt in my mind that it was made worse due to the belt being too tight. Jabbasports tensioner cap is not required in my opinion. As long as the inside of the belt and all the pulleys are free from muck. Fitting the splashguard definately helps that problem. Cheers Gavin

The last thing I'd stick on a 'reliable' jap motor is a G60. You say 2.2L is that a US motor, we have only had 2litre motors here. I agree with Kev, get the gear and possibly the whole motor from a GT4. Gavin

Go to another powerflow dealer. There must be one close by. Have a look on http://www.yell.com here's 2 http://www.yell.com/search/DoSearch?loc ... OCKHOLDERS Gavin

IMHO it is better to think of boost as a measure of restriction not flow. Flow is what is important. The easier it is for air to get in the cyilnder the more fuel can be added and therefore more power produced. If you port the head for example, there is less restriction which results in a drop of boost pressure. The flow is improved and you get more power. Stick on a pulley and chip and see what you get. 1700 is .7BAR which is over 10PSI, just. What did you have before the charger was rebuilt? It is possible that there was nowt wrong with your charger as it was prior to the rebuild. New bearings and seals make sure that it is in tip top condition and will more than likely not throw itself apart, for 40000 miles at least. Gavin

Boost depends on pulley size. What pulley have you got fitted? If its std, then the boost you have is round about normal. If you have a 68 then you need help. Also is your chip std or uprated? Gavin

Was it more than 95 quid? :lol: like my GT

That VAG manual will have the specs in it for sure. Check and set up the one that is fitted before you consider replacing it. The VAG manuals have a massive amount of troubleshooting info, just need a 1551/2 for a lot of it. VAG COM should be able to give you the same info though. Gavin

Could be that the throttle pot is bad then. If you haven't checked that with a DVM you should. No idea what it runs to/from but if there are dead spots on it that could be causing some of your snags. You need to check that it increases or decreases from closed to open smoothly. Any sudden jumps to open or short circuit would indicate a problem. Bad info to the ECU that it cannot or badly interprets would make it run badly. The ECU would probably expect to see a certain value represent a closed throttle. Maybe Kev knows what that is? The pot may need adjusting to get that right? There is fella always selling VR6 engine manuals on ebay, I reckon it would have the right info in there. gavin

Not much to go wrong with an FPR unless the diaphragm has got a hole in it or it's the wrong FPR all together. Might be worth buying a fuel pressure gauge. I don't use mine often since getting rid of all my K-jet motors. I did use it most recently after making my 3.5 BAR FPR from std one. My guess work was spot on. :mrgreen: You say it cuts out on the overrun, does a VR have a closed throttle switch, maybe that's gone?? Gavin

Take it to Kershaws mate, you know they'll fettle it. :mrgreen: Gavin

In my experience, chargers rumble when they need bearings. I suggest you take the charger/alternator belt off and run the engine briefly. No cooling as teh water pump will not be spinning. You need to make sure it is clear of the rotating pullies but it is a good way of eliminating the charger/water pump and alternator from the equation. If the noise is stil there it is in the engine or PS pump. Big ends like Gazza says or maybe tappets. If the noise is gone then it could be the alternator, charger or water pump. Should I cancel the loom?? gavin

You should consider getting it registered, my insurance company were going to pull the plug as it was covered under the chassis number. It had been nearly 2 months mind. I was actually at the registration office in Stretford when I got the call which meant I didn't have to lie to them.. gavin

No worries, anytime. :)

Nick, just wondering, maybe you have changed the bulbs but did a previous owner?? Gavin

In case anyone else experiences this Henny is right, tap the relays. Sometimes the contacts fuse themselves together, the tap breaks the joint and the relay usually operates normally afterwards. No need for replacement. edit> no need for replacement, usually. Gavin

I ran german metal plates for 3 years til I flogged my car. Swapped to plastic for the MOT got stopped once by a pair of jobsworth coppers on a sunday afternoon on my way to Blackpool. If the spacing is correct then i think you have a good chance of getting away with it in the long run Gavin

sweet :mrgreen:

You can get 'universal' probes. I cannot comment on how well they work having never needed one. Touch wood :mrgreen: If I were to replace mine I would consider missing out the factory connector if possible as that is a potential scource of problems. Setting the pot to 500 Ohms is for folk who have no access to a gas tester. It is just a safe value to use. No substitute for a proper setting up. I think if taping up the switch made no difference then you have something else wrong. Not the probe. I would look at vacuum pipes. The 2 on the TB and also the short piece that goes to the FPR on the drivers side of the inlet manifold. Has your tickover screw would itself out?? The pipe from the TB to teh ECU should be exactly 1 Metre long make sure that has not been shortened sometime. Cutting 2 cm off doesn't make a noticeable difference but 5 or more does, in my experience. Also check that the battery voltage when the engine is running is high enough. If it drops close to 12-13 then the ECU starts overfuelling as a safety measure. This scenario can also be caused by a engine bad earth. There should be one from the TB to the coil bracket. Hope one of the above nails it for you. gavin

Alan, it's the blue plug that feeds the ECU temp. The lambda probe should be visible by looking down the back back of the engine on the drivers side. The plug is a 4 wire one, the wires are usually very delicate due to the heat in that area. To eliminate the lambda probe, you could try taping up the Wide open throttle switch on the throttle body. With this switch taped up, the ECU will ignore the probe and run purely from saved maps. Have a look on http://www.snstuning.com in the DIY section for other pointers. Gavin

A std pulley will be made of steel for sure, aftermarket ones could be ally or steel. Ball park figures, a std rebuild should give you a minimum off 8PSI. A stage 4 won't, in theory, get you anymore boost. A 68mm pulley should get you up to 1BAR/14+PSI.. There is a difference between boost pressure and volume of air moved. There is not a true relation between boost pressure and power. I like to think of the boost pressure as a measure of resistance to airflow. Porting the head or changing the cam will reduce the restriction in the inlet, this will also drop the pressure on your gauge. However, the engine will be more efficient and therefore make more power, with less (apparent) boost. Gavin

16VG60 has a group buy going on with Milltek, they do one. If you are looking for power you won't notice the difference. IMHO. If your cat is dead just knock the guts out of it and stick it back on. Spend the difference at the pub or on an alarm. :mrgreen: Gavin

The pukka G60 ones are metal if thats what you are after. About 30 quid.

The grey blue is the one that does your dash lighting. Any brown should be good for the earth. Gavin

Do you have small pulley fitted??? With a 68 you would make up to 2000 at the red line. Your 1540 is .5 BAR which is a little over 7PSI, not that bad if you are running a std pulley. If you are on a small pulley then I would look for boost leaks and stuff before pointing the finger at your charger. At least looking doesn't cost anything. Holes in boost tubes are not unknown. Gavin