h100vw
Members-
Content Count
2,830 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Calendar
Articles
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Everything posted by h100vw
-
It has probably been battered with a hammer to get it off during a Cam belt change. Unless of course the pulley bolt is loose/snapped. CLOSER INVESTIGATION REQUIRED SHARPISH!!!!!!!!! Gavin
-
Seriously, I don't think you need to 'sweat it'. Pun intended. I would be worried if the temp shot up and never came down. But as it goes up and down, I'd say it was ok. The gauges read from around 70 to 100ish degrees so the scale isn't too clever really. A big swing in the needle isn't all that much, as a percentage. As my old physics teacher said 'it's all about percentages'. You can't really go on what was indicated before the rebuild as so much has changed. What does the oil read on the open road? My Golf showed about 70-80 most days at motorway speeds. You got heat soak for a short while as you slowed down. But again half a mile of clear road would see it drop. Personally, I thing running it up those hills under load will be really good for it. As per that Yank website. Certainly loads better than dribbling to work at 50. Gavin
-
Don't forget you have very few miles on this BRAND NEW engine Henny. Heat production is going to be high due to tight tolerences etc. I doubt if you could have plumbed it wrong using VAG hoses for your bypass, they wouldn't fit. My Golf used to heat up quick in traffic like King Prawns and then drop once moving again. Another thought, if you have had all the water out of the system, can you get hot air from the heater? Airlocks. Your MOT figures are not unusual IMHO, nice flowing efficient head ECU with Lamdba control etc. No unburnt fuel leaving the cylinders. Gavin
-
Can you post a picture of it? Big manufacturers buy in their alarms from the likes of Scorpian/GT/META etc etc. There is a good chance that it is made somewhere in Europe. The fobs are sometimes special to VW but the boxes wouldn't be. Maybe someone will recognise the box? Gavin
-
Congratulations Darren, can we assume the birth was easy for you? :lol: Have you named her yet? Georgia-Louise Andrea Denise Erica Roberta Bennett would be good I think :mrgreen: Gavin
-
Is it reallly overheating? Does it spit water out or is it just the inication that is the problem?? VW says in the handbooks that anywhere on the gauge with the LED off is normal. Gavin
-
Lamdba probe output can be checked with an Air Fuel ratio meter. Which I would recommend you have anyway. Darren usually has some. Have a look here at the DIY section, good info from the men who are SNS.. http://www.snstuning.com Always check with http://www.vwvortex.com for G60 info. The Spams have loads more than us and therefore more experience. Gavin
-
68mm pulley, SNS 5.5 chip, 3.5 bar fuel pressure regulator modified airbox How old is your chip? Some of the early ones (early 2003) run really rich. A lot of time has been spent refining these maps. If you are running in traffic the G60 can use massive amounts of fuel. You may have a bad Lambda probe or duff throttle switch causing problems too. Was the blue sender you fitted brand new? Gavin
-
Best day for that has got to be a Sunday, before 8am! :lol: Gavin
-
http://www.pitstopdevelopments.com nuff said :mrgreen:
-
Often on a nasty looking bracket that fits around the offside front strut. Otherwise screwed to the bulkhead somewhere, above the gearbox. It is possible that it is connected to the cars horn so you wouldn't see anything under the bonnet. gavin
-
Not 100% but that could be a scorpian factory fit..... Gavin
-
Serpi Star have done the factory fit alarms on BMWs in the past and they do have some that are Cat 1. If you do want a cat 1 fitting, I only live down the road near Warrington and can sort you out. Gavin
-
ETKA says the cranks are the same. Which means it is the same as a pretty much any GTI in 16V. Gavin
-
Might that not be due to the discs being wet? Not the pads. Gavin
-
No, I don't think the extra expense is warranted. The plugs may only be a fiver each but with the crimps another quid each, it would jack the price up another 20 quid. I could use plugs from a scrappy and solder them on and I have in the past for my own use. Again though, the additional time to do that, would jack up the price again. The other thing is the plug you need to connect to the car loom is only available by smashing up headlights. A very expensive hobby!! Cheers Gavin
-
Steve at Pitstop reckons the belts don't snap. Snapped belts are a result, not the cause of the failure. Gavin
-
The fella at inters told me that EBC had used several different compounds of Greenstufff pads over the last 5 years or so. The ones I bought last year were an improvement over the ones I bought in 1999. Less dust and much longer lasting. Admittidly they do need a bit of heat in them but I never found it a problem on the road. Gavin
-
The Golf G60 has the same pads as the Corrado. I would recommend getting your brake fluid changed too. Especially if you have no idea when it was last done. VW say it should be done bi-annually. Get some DOT 4 or higher. Make sure your rear wheels bearings are tight, as that can take a lot of feel out of the pedal.. I have used Green stuff pads in the past and they are good at track speeds, so the road should be no problem. I bought some last year at inters for about £30 inc delivery!! Pagid fast road and their ordinary road compound are good too IMHO. I have used both kinds on track days without problems. Gavin
-
Virgin, PM sent Gavin
-
The standard tyres on the Sebring wheel were 185/55 15s. I think that'll be what the fitters were talking about. 195/50 15s cost loads less than them. You could get a set of 4 fitted for less than 200. I bought Michelin Exaltos from Costco for 178 fitted. 205/50 15 Toyos for my MK 3 16V cost me 185 delivered from Mytyres.co.uk. Good money if you know someone that'll fit them cheap. Yokohama A539s are about the same money. Gavin
-
Jim thats not the knock sensor. The knock sensor is bolted to the block below the alternator. There may even be 2 fitted. There was on my 9A engined Passat. Thats some kind of pickup for the ECU. Not 100% what it does tho. I have the 9A manual in my car, if I remember I'll have a look and tell all. The knock sensors should be done up to 15lbs ft, which isn't much. If they are too tight they become really sensitive and pull the timing to stop the knocking. This will make teh car feel flat. Personally I feel it is something else. Possibly a throttle switch? Or as has been suggested the lambda probe. I'd check the wiring to the probe before replacing it. IMHO they seem to be quite resilient, except to leaded petrol. Also if there is one, make sure the vacuum pipe to the ECU is ok. Any leaks in that and the ECU cannot see the load change with throttle position. The timing becomes fixed. Gavin
-
relay 12, bottom right hand is the fuel pump relay, the source for the red/yellow.switching for that comes from the Digifant ECU. I'll take the bentley to work and scan the pages and email them to you. Much easier I think. Cheers Gavin
-
The wires in plug M are all outputs. When I get in I'll have another look. Obviously the red/yellow comes from the fuel pump relay but I'll confirm details after tea. Gavin
-
Blue/black is power to spoiler switch amongst other things. Brown/blue is from-to fuel gauge sender. red/yellow defo power to the fuel pump brown is earth for fuel pump purple/blue is the other side of the gauge sender Although none of that info explains your problem. But it has all the right colours so must be the right loom. Gavin