tony_ack
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Everything posted by tony_ack
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Vapour lock?? VR cuts out immediately after starting
tony_ack replied to Will.I.Dub's topic in Engine Bay
VW Factory-fit immobilisers were integrated into the ECU from about 94/95 onwards I think. The issue you have sounds like the factory fit immobiliser, not the after-market one. The VW immobiliser is pretty good actually when it works - it picks up a signal from a transponder in your key. If it doesn't get the signal, the ECU will cut the engine. The problem is probably the plug into the immobiliser box. Remove the fusebox cover and the lower dash shelf on the driver's side. Up behind the dash, near the spoiler switch should be the immobiliser box (I think the spoiler control box is around there too). There's a small plug going into it - remove it and use some WD40/contact cleaner to clean up the contacts. Sounds like it's time to invest in an uprated headlamp loom too, as well as better wipers to get your car ready for winter! -
It's hard to put a price on it, though e/windows were standard equipment on almost all Corrados, whereas they were an option for a Golf, so supply/demand is a little more in your favour. The best thing to do is see what is in your car. If it originally had e/w and they were removed, then perhaps all the electrics (other than motors) are still present? E/w in the Corrado go through a control module behind the driver side rear doorcard - check that's still there first, then get the door card off to see whether the loom is still there. You might just need the mech/motors and switches if you're lucky.
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I'm almost sure there is a bulb at the top of the ashtray-holder?
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I used double-sided foam tape on mine. I wasn't convinced it would hold at first, but three years later... Just make sure both surfaces are clean and degreased (or use some paint prep cleaner), and push on hard.
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Just be methodical -disconnect everything and see what moves freely and what doesn't. The heater box flap and the cable should have nearly no resistance - if they don't move completely freely then you're going to have a problem. The controls have a little resistance. I'd guess it was the cable.
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Just to put your mind at rest, it's normal for the aux water pump to be making that noise with the ignition on!
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I didn't get much interest for this on here, but it's listed on eBay if anyone wants it: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=261265178246
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There are a few in Sheffield, hope to see you around as I don't see a lot of Corrados on the roads around here.
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The only problem is that second hand ones are pot luck as there's no guarantee that it'll be better than the one you have! I have three motors at home, only one of which is strong enough to operate the sunroof. Dirt in the cables can cause the roof to slow down over time as well. Take the roof apart and strip the cables clean (they are probably covered in some furry grease-dirt style stuff) - this should improve things too. It's not difficult but just a little fiddly and time consuming.
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(some) dash rattles: Badly fitted radio/loose cage Loose wiring (cloth wrap the looms) Broken/missing spring latches on controls/warning lights (e.g. ABS light, foglight switch, etc) Broken tab on ashtray holder Broken tab on ciggy lighter holder Missing rubber block in steering wheel cowling Loose/missing screws anywhere Missing fusebox clips Alarm wiring/boxes! Glovebox trim (the bit that covers screws when you open the the glovebox Glovebox rubbing against the dash (hobbycraft felt!!) Glovebox door All of the glovebox really Broken clips on gear lever surround Missing spring clips in dash vents Loose change/stuff in cubby holes/glovebox Badly secured spoiler module/factory immobiliser box Broken screwholes on centre surround (you can usually get away with 1 or 2)
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I'm still trying to get to the bottom of my last couple of knocks and squeaks, but as above the tailgate area is notorious for squeaks and rattles. I'd get yourself some black sticky felt from Hobbycraft (comes in A4 sheets) and some cloth loom wrap (useful for insulation between plastics as well as wrapping looms) and put it anywhere where plastics might be rubbing. Try looking at: Adjusting the boot catch height and adjusting rubber 'stops' under the bottom corners of the tailgate. Check tailgate alignment too. Spoiler (is it loose/is there any play?) Tailgate plastics - particularly the top corners where the side trims meet the top trim Parcel shelf - are the foam bits on the tailgate plastic present which hold the shelf still there? lube the parcel shelf straps, but make sure it's something that won't destroy the rubber Are the tailgate struts secure? Cloth wrap the wiring loom in the tailgate and also in behind the c-pillars (include the sunroof drains in this too). Don't forget the wiring to the rear speakers and the boot light. Are the parcel shelf supports fully secured? Make sure all clips on the c-pillar trims are present and that the fixers aren't broken Check for rubbing/missing foam insulation between parcel shelf supports/c-pillar trims and rear door cards Check rear door cards for rubbing on window 'ledge' Make sure all rear door card clips are present If you have leather, check the rear seats for rubbing against the plastics. Make sure rear hump is secure. Check space saver and tools are secure Is the foam above the headlining still present? Replace it if not Check the back of the sunroof cassette is secure Check rear strut top mounts are secure
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Don't be too harsh on the former owner - it's incredibly easy to do as it's not particularly strong and you need a fair bit of force to get the old cable off. On the plus side, when I did the same it was a good excuse to put in the climatronic and do away with the cables and brittle dials!
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The excessive clicking of the relays may NOT be caused by the relays themselves! It could mean that something is causing them to engage then disengage. My money is on the crank sensor, but could be ignition switch perhaps? If the battery is on its way out, it may make it worse as it'll weaken the signal from the crank sensor further still when starting.
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I don't recognise it and to be honest it looks like someone has cut and shut a resistor into the plug to replace something else (a sensor of some sort that might have previously been fautly perhaps?). Have a look around where you found it to see whether there are any similar plugs (connected or otherwise) that it could plug into.
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The 17s could be as detrimental to the ride as the lowered springs, especially if you're running low profile tyres
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Hate MOT time too. Oh my god, it's going to fail Oh my god, it's going to fail Oh my god, it's going to fail Oh my god, it's going to fail Oh, it passed, no advisories!
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Have a look in the breaking section - there are three or four active threads in there. All seem to be by regular forum members, and I've met PurpleTom before so can vouch for him! For new parts, it depends what you need. Service items can be got from VW or sites like AVS (http://www.vwspares.co.uk) do good, sometimes OEM quality parts. Quite a lot of other stuff is obsolete now, but still, try VW in the first instance (make sure you're sitting down when they give you the prices) or VW classic parts (http://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.de). GSF and Eurocarparts are okay for branded stuff, but beware of anything else. Otherwise, keep an eye on the classifieds on here, or last resort... eBay!
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It's a while since I've looked at the standard setup, but IIRC one cable operates the flap inside the ducting in front of the matrix (temp control), one operates the big flap at the front (to the dash vent ducting), and one operates the flap up to the windscreen ducting. I remember that one of the cables is a complete sod to change at the ducting end
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None came with remote central locking, however I think they all have central locking on the key? Most of these cars have an aftermarket alarm which plugs into the C/L which gives you remote central locking on the alarm fob. You can also get it to operate the full closure.
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Rare/Sought After/Desirable Corrado parts - What Ya Got?
tony_ack replied to Jamie's topic in General Car Chat
Think you've just added 50% e-Bay tax on all the parts in this thread -
I get a little despondent with it sometimes. The last few months have just been one thing after the other, but finally the mechanical side is sound again, the suspension is pretty much sorted and it has 12 months MOT. Suddenly it's an amazing car again, and I can't think of anything else I'd rather have right now. I did have an Audi A4 TDI for a while, and although it was newer, I got bored with it after about 6 months and it started needing money spending on it too. Clutch (plus dual mass flywheel) and timing belt would have cost me about £500-£600 in a garage so I got rid.
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Got one from VW last year - not sure whether they're still available?
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I'm not sure what to make of top mounts sitting flush or not flush to be honest! On mine I've had to use early top mounts to match the early spring plates on the H & R springs, and they push through the turret and the top plate sits pretty high. They're new mounts though and seem fine and stable. The car handles fine too. When I used the late top mounts/bearings with the early spring top plate, one pushed through and the other didn't, which wasn't good.
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VR6 mounts are different to early mounts. You ideally need to match the top mount to whatever top plate is on your coilovers. I had problems when I tried to mix and match early and late. If the nut on top of the top mounts is over tightened, it will lead to lots of creaking and clunking as the bearing won't be able to move. If you don't tighten them enough, they work loose and start knocking over bumps
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Replace the water pump? I seem to remember there are two belt setups on the 1.8 - not sure whether this applies to the Corrado or not - but when I went to VW for a PAS belt for the Golf they gave me the wrong one which was a lot lot smaller.