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tony_ack

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Everything posted by tony_ack

  1. Pics to come (need to clean them!) I'm looking for a SWAP for these wheels. They are genuine BBS RC wheels. Condition is good - some kerbing on some of the wheels, but otherwise all straight, true and with no cracks or buckling. They've been in use on my daily for a while. I picked these because I think they really suit the Corrado and fit perfectly. However because the car is my daily, and perhaps because of my age, I'm looking to go back to original to better absorb the bumps and potholes in our shocking roads. The wheels are really light and look great on the car, particularly when the car is lowered slightly. All wheels come with centre caps, though some of the finish inside has streamed. Tyres are all Continental Premium Contact 2 205/45/16 W rated. Two are down to about 4mm, other two are nearly new (replaced about 3 months ago, costing £100 per tyre). I chose the tyre size to keep the rolling radius as close to the original wheels as possible. Considering that the wheels need a bit of work to get them perfect (though they are more than presentable for everyday use), but also considering that the tyres are all good (and two are pretty much new), I'd value these at about £450-£500. It's hard to value these as I can't find any for sale on eBay or anywhere else, but a mint set was sold on here for £700 earlier this year. I'm after a set of BBS Solitudes, or possibly Speedlines, preferably in very good/excellent condition, and good tyres (good brand and decent tread) all round. Any deal would probably involve cash my way (or I may be interested in other Corrado spares if you have something I need), depending on the condition of your wheels and tyres. Because the car is a daily and I don't have any spares, I'd need to be able to swap the wheels on the day. I'm based in Sheffield or Leeds, and am happy to split fuel costs.
  2. Bugger, I completely missed this milestone when it happened last month. Now I'll have to wait until 345678
  3. Does it? I'm sure my passenger one works with no-one sat in it! It will take a lot longer to warm the top leather though when it's empty, as there's no reciprocal body heat, and also when someone sits in it, you compress the seat meaning that there is less air to heat between the pad ad the leather.
  4. The PAS on my MK2 (8v) is as light as a feather. Corrado is quite heavy - slightly too heavy in tight spots - but otherwise I think it gives really good feel.
  5. VR6 standard airbox off a 95 Corrado. Undrilled and unmodified, complete with MAF adaptor plate. £40 plus postage (about £10)
  6. 234k, VW dealership demo car for the first year of its life., but FVWSH to 175k. No smoke, uses no oil worth mentioning (about half a litre in 4000 miles). Plugs healthy brown/white on last change. Pulls very very well. Chains done at 180k, silky smooth and fairly quiet, especially when run on Pro S 10w50.
  7. ABF is a common upgrade for the MK2 Golf GTI 8v, and is touted as 'plug and play'. Both the 8v and the ABF use computer controlled injection so it should be an easier conversion from an 8v Corrado than from a 16v Corrado as you'll be able to keep the fuel pump, etc. You should be able to keep the car wiring original - you just need to change the ECU and engine loom. If you source a pre-94/95 engine then you don't need the transponder/key. The 16v will rev to over 7k rpm I imagine, so a set of 16v clocks may be beneficial?
  8. Just like mine then! Could I have the new one then if still available?
  9. Glovebox strip please - either second hand one if all fixing intact, or new one if not
  10. TBH the issue I have with the flap positions may be down to my system/control unit specifically. The connection to Vagcom is via the OBD2 port (if you have a OBD2 port...) - it's a single wire from one of the pins on the clima loom, which you can splice into the existing signal wire connecting to the port. If you're making your own loom, the connection to the OBD port is going to be one of the easier ones to do! Correct part no for the MK3/Corrado/Passat VR6 compressor is 357820803R - I thik there is a difference between 4 and 6 cylinder on the MK3/Corrado, but I don't know what it is. Have no idea about the MK4 as there are loads of different part nos.
  11. The brown coolant temp sender is used on all Corrados with aircon - it has 4 pins instead of 2. I think it provides a cut-off condition for the aircon if the water temp at the engine (rather than the rad) gets too high. I think the compressor *should* mount on the existing bracket, but it won't hurt to have the MK4 one if you can get it cheap/free. Let me know how you get on with the compressor, condenser and pipework. Don't forget the pressure switch which needs to fit either in the pipework, or in the drier if it is possible. It's always recommended that you replace the drier when the A/C system is emptied and exposed to air. I've kept a spare supply of climatronic motors just in case I have problems with those. Both systems I tried to fit had faulty recirculation motors as a plastic arm had split where it went around the gear inside. A bit of superglue soon sorts it out. The only issue with the system that I've had seems to be that the temp calibration seems off - it's a little too warm, even at 18 degrees. I think you can adjust the flap positions with Vagcom though.
  12. In case you were still going down the MK4 compressor route, there are two types - one needs a thrust sensor, the earlier one works off the high/low pressure sensor. Regarding pulley size - I have know idea, but personally I'd play it safe and get the MK3 one.
  13. I'm guessing you've come across my thread and tonedef's as well, which will tell you a bit about the dash side. Here's what you need (off the top of my head...) -Climatronic heaterbox and ducting. It should come complete with the blower fan, actuators, evaporator and possibly a matrix (though you'd be advised to fit a new one). Some people use the MK4 matrix which has slightly different pipework - I used the Corrado one and it fitted fine. -Climatroinc control panel. You have a choice of MK4 Golf/B5 Passat (blue backlight), Skoda Octavia (green backlight) or Seat Leon (different design front panel and red backlight). I'd choose to match whatever dials you're running or planning to run. Swapping isn't a biggie as they're only about £20. Make sure you get the trim surround as it fits the Corrado perfectly and finishes the panel off nicely. Again on the surround there is a choice of walnut effect, metal effect or a kind of black rubberised trim. Go for the rubberised one if you want to keep it standardish - the rubber coating rubs off to leave a textured plastic finish which matches the rest of your dash. Keep the U-clips off your current heater controls - iirc the Corrado controls secure from behind the dash whereas the climatronic panel secures from the front - you'll understand why you need the u-clips when you fit it. The panel fits perfectly in the dash! -Climatronic loom - this is the bit that runs from the panel itself and runs to the car loom. There are two versions with different pinouts, but they are largely the same. I think the difference is that one is designed for a high/low pressure switch on the A/C and one is designed to use a thrust sensor, but with a little manipulation they both do the same thing. You'll also need the sunlight sensor with a pig tail loom - they usually have to chop this when breaking a MK4, so make sure you get the sensor with a bit of wiring so you can splice it back in. -Car loom - you have a choice to either make your own loom to fit the Climatronic loom (which either involves getting the right connectors to fit the Climatronic loom, or chopping the plugs from the clima loom and splicing/dicing), or do it the overkill way like I did and get the whole MK4 loom and take what you need, including all the wiring/plugs that connect to the clima loom. The benefit of that is that you also get goodies like the wiring up to the A/C, fusebox, etc and the MK4 outside temp sensor (Corrado one is incompatible with MK4 clima, so you will need a temp sender either way). Getting the MK4 loom makes it so much easier, even if it is a waste of a good loom. If you're careful, you can always sell what's leftover to someone doing an engine conversion into a MK2/Corrado without aircon. -Compressor - I don't know whether the MK4 item will work or not, but the MK3 VR6 compressor definitely fits and is the same part no as the Corrado VR6 one. You'll need a new aux belt for a/c. -Condenser - this is where I got stuck. I haven't really seen anything that doesn't involve chopping something or making new brackets. The MK3 VR6 rad definitely DOESN'T fit as the bottom pipe fouls the subframe. Something small and after-market may be the way to go, and make your own brackets. Drier - I think any drier from a VW will do. I found that the MK3 one allows you to fit the hi/low pressure switch to it, so it may save some complications on the pipework Pipework - unless you can get hold of the Corrado stuff, or Passat VR6 pipework (both very very rare), your best bet will be to head to Piritek or the like and get some made up. Late VR fan controller - I don't know if this is essential, but Climatronic is designed to go through the fan controller. The late Corrado one is the same as that in the early MK4 V6s, so if you have a late controller you're definitely covered. Brown engine coolant temp sender - get the Corrado item from VW, this replaces either the yellow or black temp sender on the VR (I can't remember which). Get the plugs for the loom for it at the same time, and the loom plug for the pressure switch That's all I can think of at the moment - I'm sure there's more! I never got as far as finishing the A/C as other things came up at the time, but did quite a bit of research into it.
  14. Okay, it's an old thread, but... What a difference a couple of years make. I've just got my quotes back for the Corrado, fully comp, 7 years NCB, all mods declared, 12000 miles per year, parked on the street outside the house. Greenlight/Sky - sub £500 Brentacre £400 Adrian Flux £385 I went with Brentacre in the end as they were slightly cheaper than Flux when paying monthly.
  15. I managed to do mine by removing the inlet manifold instead of the front end but I ended up with my hands and arms cut to shreds
  16. You just have to rearrange the pipes slightly if you want to remove it - I can't remember how exactly but it's pretty obvious once you remove the damper box. Nothing new needed at all, and no chopping to the existing pipes - all very easy!
  17. It's sometimes down to a faulty voltage regulator in the clocks as well. I've NEVER had a VW that has run dead on 90 (or warm for that matter) and I've had a few. The MK2 (8v) runs just above cold on the gauge and the VR runs at 80 on the motorway. The MK2 was tested by a garage and the temp was spot on, even though the gauge said it was too low.
  18. A dodgy water pump wouldn't affect it that much when it's just been started I don't think. Good shout on the idle screw - check the o ring hasn't perished - but make sure the hoses and vac lines are free from leaks! It's worth replacing the vac lines anyway for the amount it costs from VW (comes off a reel and you cut it accordingly)
  19. Check the wiring to the temp senders on the side of the head as well - this can be pretty brittle and can cause serious idle/running issues, especially when cold.
  20. What's the smoke caused by/what colour is it? Do you think it's burning oil, or running extremely rich? 16v's that are overfuelling can put out a lot of white/grey smoke at idle, making you think there's a serious problem. Valve seals/guides and piston rings are metal so shouldn't perish!
  21. Check the thermostat first by seeing if the bottom pipe from the rad gets warm as soon as you turn the engine on. If the stat is working, the bottom pipe should be stone cold until the temperature gets up to about 90. If it starts getting warm before the top rad pipe is hot (and I mean proper hot), then it's definitely the thermostat. In answer to the original question, the temp sender is either 12 or 13 in the pic - I can't remember which. Blue is usually ECU, black or yellow is usually the gauge.
  22. The only thing that I'd say is that a loom is pretty cheap if you make it yourself - the biggest cost is the relays - but as you say, if you get them from the right place they can be pretty cheap. Then you need to take into account that a lot of owners probably won't want to venture behind the fusebox (the uprated loom is easy-ish to install without removing much), and still (at the moment at least) offers less of a voltage drop. You're right that the uprated loom isn't the most elegant solution, but it is the easiest and most effective. That said, I think anyone going as close to OEM as possible might want a solution that doesn't involve chopping the headlight loom, so it could be perfect for them. BTW, I don't think Climatronic uses relay 1 - the signal goes through the climatronic panel and the main Air Con current goes through the VR fan controller. Love this sort of research though!
  23. I got a key cut and coded at Harewood House a couple of years ago for about £25-£30 iirc, including the blank. That's probably the figure you should look at? The key snapped a few months later (luckily not in any locks), so I just swapped the transponder over into a new blank and got it cut at an independent.
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