tony_ack

Do you also use penetrating lube on the gf?

Oooooh... PM'd

Is the allen key hole covered by the flap when you operate the motor? They won't work and will just click if it is uncovered.

Bump, still have these

Hi mate, they're still available I'm in Intake, near Manor Top... not too far from J31 or J30 if you fancy the scenic route

Bump. Offers considered

Sold

Wonder if the loom to the motors is the same as in the mk2 golf? I they have the loom and motor connectors as standard

If you fancy a beginner's electronics project, then you can make your own loom - everything is readily available from Maplin (though you can get it a lot cheaper online). Here's a link for some more info - it uses spade connectors but I prefer to solder it in: http://www.matey-matey.com/uprated_headlight_wiring.shtml

There are a few different lights with different plugs (thanks VW). It sounds like you have the wrong light. When ABS kicks in you should know about it, it's not exactly subtle.

Dox = I've sent a PM The temporary solution is holding up pretty well so far - no leaks at all and the smell of coolant under the bonnet has completely gone fort he first time since I've owned the car!

Hi Dox, it's definitely a different plug as the VR one is square. I could swap the bottom housings over, but it would really depend on how much you wanted for it?

I've had a look at some wiring diagrams, and there's nothing obvious coming in or out of the control module that could cause the symptoms I have. The window operates fine on the switch The C/L and full closure work on both the sunroof and the passenger window So the module is getting power, it's getting the signal from the C/L and the connections to the motors are fine. I can only think the module itself is faulty/

Cheers, good plan. I've just checked on ETKA and the same part no comes up on pretty much all 5/6 cylinder VWs up to about 2001, and quite a few SEATs too... should make it much easier to find.

I was investigating a leak around the aux water pump on my daily, and the bottom flange on the pump just sheared off. I've botched it up at the moment by removing the pump and putting the broken bit of flange between the pipes with a hose clip around them, but I'm not sure how long it will last. Has anyone got a spare pump with the bottom housing intact? Doesn't even matter if it doesn't work as long as the plastic at the bottom and the flanges are intact. Would be fantastic if someone has one in Sheffield or nearby. Cheers

Fckwits My three previous cars were vandalised outside my current house - I found out later it was the same person each time, and there's been no trouble since he's had to 'move out' two years ago. I ended up putting a camera up at one point.

Not sure whether this belonged in exterior or interior (or ICE and secure for that matter). Though since I'm standing OUTSIDE the car when I activate the C/L... I have a weird an intermittent problem with the full closure on the driver's window. I have remote full closure on the alarm, and it always closes the sunroof and passenger window fine, but occasionally it won't close the driver's window. It doesn't matter whether I use the key or the fob, it just doesn't close. The window works fine under normal operation, no slow-ness or anything. Any ideas?

Or a tiny blob of superglue on one corner! Would be interested in a proper set though, depending on fit and price.

I replaced the thermostat (VW), crack pipe, housing, water pump and radiator (VW) and got almost exactly the same temps on the gauge - about 75-80 deg on the motorway and then up to about 95 in traffic. To be honest most old VWs I've had have run a little cold, I really can't explain it, especially after I replace the thermostats with VAG ones! Oil temp remains normalish - about 95 under normal driving, up to about 110 on the motorway, and 120 if I'm feeling spirited. The only other things I can think of are that the dash gauge might be reading wrong, or it *could* be the grille. Some grilles have the top two slats blanked off, whereas others have all the slats open. Not sure how much of an impact this will have on the dash gauge. In theory the air flow to the rad should increase by a fair whack with the slats open, but then surely the overall system temp should still be regulated by the thermostat?

Just a normal impact driver will work fine (one that you use a hammer on) - you can get one in Halfords if you're in a pinch

Not sure how much benefit it would give to a 16v, but it is the best mod I've ever made to my VR - really tightens up the front end.

Sorry to hear this, again never met him, but one of the most knowledgeable and helpful people on here and always popped up with straight-forward, clear and detailed advice.

She is but a baby... think mine will celebrate her 230000 mile'th birthday in the next couple of weeks.

Don't think it's the same and unfortunately finding one that is in good condition is not easy.

Never needed a spanner myself, but then there's always a risk that some pikey will steal them if they're not tight enough!