Andy T

Anyone found what causes this problem? mine seems to be getting worse, it has turned into a 'double clunk' when reversing on left lock quickly.

Sounds good, which H&R kit is that, or do they just do the one coilover kit?

whoops didnt realise it was such an old thread!

Are those poly bump stops hard or soft? they look exactly like some spax 'progressive' ones I used to run on my GTI, they were quite soft. They gained you some extra spring travel but when the shock bottomed out you really felt it!

after a coolant flush, engine should be run without expansion cap until the stat has opened, this will remove any airlocks.

The ad sounds a little dodgy as the kit apparently fits mk3 golf and corrado, but doesn't state which models/years. Suspension kits should be tuned for a one particular car/model.

yeah should be pretty easy, you have to take the door card off to get to the miror housing fixing screws though. The electric mechanism is just held in by four screws, and looks the same as a mk2 golf unit. The wiring disconnects inside the door if i remember rightly. If the glass is still on, you have to prise it off the four retaining lugs from the back, but be careful not to break anything! the wires/tabs to the heated glass can be a bit frail too.

Will you be selling the wheels or keeping hold of them. Once bought a set of teledials from Ulverston, wasn't from you was it? I'll be using them as winter wheels unless someone made me a good offer for them, or a swop for 16's (must have good tyres tho)

Gunk and other chemical/solvent degreasers will do a great job of dissolving grease and muck, but will rapidly eat rubbers, some plastics and possibly the paintwork. Citrus based degreasers are they way to go(still amazed at how good autoglym is without any scrubbing) but if you have to use solvent, cover up hoses etc, or just use it locally with a stiff brush. . Blasting hot water/steam at an engine bay might not cause problems immediately, but could corrode electrics over time, my local vw specialist refuse to steam clean engine bays now because of the complaints they've had from customers with running probs.

Yeah £600 sounds very steep for what basically is a steel shaft, splined & grooved. If you could find out what steel is used by gemini/other, you could get a machine shop to make them up for you. I would probably use a high tensile shock resistant steel such as EN24T.

lol, I didn't realise that you weren't from over here!

Where are these car washing rooms u talk about? I've never seen one in the north west, would be handy because I spend an hour or more washing mine every week, out in the elements!

keep seeing a Mystic Blue Storm, on my way to work on the M60 near stockport, and turns off at the bredbury junction- anyone here?

When I first got my G60 I asked a dealership which type of oil is specified for the car, (with it having a supercharger and all) and they said normal mineral 20/50 would be fine!!! yeah right....

That clears that up then! Dealers are clueless sometimes

before you take it anywhere, change the blue coolant temperature sender(front of the cyl.head, blue wiring plug), this caused CO's of 12% on my G60, but intermittently. have you got black smoke coming out of the exhaust all of the time? disconnect the lamda sensor wiring plug (back of the cylinder head, airbox side) does it run any better? My bets are on that blue sender, or the lamda sensor itself, how can the garage be sure that the lambda sensor is ok?

I don't think the dealer has got it right there mate. My old 1991 8v GTi, and my 1992 G60 both have RED caps, but the fluid used is G 002 000. My red cap says 'approved fluids' but doesn't state 'ATF'. I've Just checked in my '92 G60 handbook, it clearly states G 002 000. It also covers the Vr6 models for that year, so the fluid must be the same for VR6 too. Last time I went to G&S they didn't have the usual vag branded G 002 000 in a tin, they gave me a plastic bottle (Febi stuff possibly) just going out to the shed to check what colour it is! Can anyone confirm which cars, if any, used ATF fluid??

Looks good, about time somebody came up with a coilover that lowers the shock as well as the spring platform. Only thing is, your wheel offset/width/tyre combo will be limited in order to have enough clearance when the shock body is wound down. And surely 'slamming' the car but maintaining the same suspension travel is going is move the wishbone/CV's/driveshaft and AR bar further than they are designed to go??

Yep I would of thought white grease because of the plastic components, copper grease should only be used on metal parts subject to heat or weather (sparkplugs, nuts/bolts etc) Wonder if VW do a specific grease? It's worth opening/closing the sunroof once a week through the cold months, keeps everything moving freely

I thought the paint was pretty good on corrado's generally, the metallic vr6 I used to have had totally original paint and had no laquer lift anywhere. Suppose it depends how often they get cleaned/waxed, rust comes about from bad stonechips that aren't attended to. I've noticed a few C owners have thought their wheel arch lips were bubbling underneath the paint, but what they were actually were looking at is the textured finish of the wax sealant applied to the arch lips before painting!

Your clutch is hydraulic so you can't adjust the travel. If the clutch was dragging, you'd probably get a crunch when engaging reverse too. If your clutch engages close to the floor, you need to do a fluid change as soon as you can. If that doesn't restore your pedal travel, or it only lasts a few days, you'll need to replace either the leaky clutch slave cylinder or master cylinder. Caught me out a few times that , after a long hot run, the clutch bite got closer and closer to the floor, the next morning I couldn't engage any gears!

The click your getting is the solenoid (which changes the motors action from 'up-down' to 'left-right') so you must be getting a connection on one circuit and not the other. Might be that one or more of the little 'dumbells' have come adrift, or the contacts are corroded/worn away.

Have you got a digital mile counter, or the old type? think the old type has speedo cable, and late type is just electrical connections.

stick a new one on, whatever the reading, they can play up intermittently, and cause fuelling probs which will get blamed on the lamda probe.

The little copper 'dumbells' that slide on the pcb also corrode too, its worth turning them around to expose a clean side. The grease is on the contacts to slow corrosion/wear down, and is worth putting a light smear back on. (remember, the back of the switch is inside the door, which is exposed to the weather) The circuit board/wiring itself can fail in places too, if still no joy after cleaning, check continuity between the connector pins and the contacts on the pcb. Mine had failed on the illumination circuit, does everyone else's illuminate properly? (n.b. late switches only!)