Andy T

It shouldn't crunch no, my gearbox isn't that great but third changes fine on the upshift, although I can feel the the synchro sometimes on the downshift at certain revs. Third also whines when off-throttle at low speed, and 'clunks' when the clutch is engaged, so maybe third is a weak one. What are your engine mounts like? could the linkage be out of adjustment?

Looks good, I used to have 16" RXII's but being only 6J's they looked really weedy from most angles, were nice light wheels though

Did an oil & filter change (104k and still barely consuming any full synthetic between changes 8) Investigated the rattle coming from underneath the car, turned out to be a broken cat heatshield bracket, love it when its an easy fix!

Cheers, think i'll just keep my eye on it then

Like Blair says, you can't compare two cars like that, a few mm here and here, and small changes between front & rear screen angle ratio can make a big difference - And I doubt the wind tunnel shows the complete picture either. Yes the door handles are crap, wipers are not that much in the airstream, a std. height corrado probably handles as well as a lowered one "on the road", and rear axle bushes, when new, are designed to allow some rear wheel steer - that contributes to the car's excellent handling, you would NOT catch me fitting hard bushes on the rear axle (but these are two seperate arguments!) Can't see it making a difference more than 1mph I thought we drove corrado's for the driving experience, handling, power etc., not for poseability at speeds above 55mph. I don't really give a shit what total strangers on a motorway driving modern souless boxes think of the look of my spoiler. I don't think this is a pointless argument, I've learned quite a bit from this thread, there is always more than meets the eye, just because something may look unpurposeful, it doesn't mean that it is, and some things just shouldn't be messed with.

No you're right, plastic golf ball gearknobs and tartan seats being very conservative :-) The spoiler was a good way of 'justifying' the enormous amount extra over the Golf, which was just as capable a car. It's all marketing, always has been, always will be. Hmm, tartan & golf balls aren't exactly what i'd call outrageous styling? I think the guys who design the interior work in a slightly different department than the Aerodynamic Engineers, no? They are also very cheap items in comparison, compared to other manufacturers, yes VW are conservative. If VW had been less conservative about the spoiler, I think they would of made it a fixed plastic item, rather than the one that 'hides away' when the car is stationary. Why would they spend a huge amount of money designing & developing a 'retractable' spoiler, if it was not to make it unnoticeable most of the time(in keeping with the conservative look) The Corrado project was horrendously expensive enough, I can't see they would have justified an expensive spoiler if it was purely for show. Blair, where are those pics from? I'm sure i've seen some better ones that that.... Yandards, why exactly would lowering the corrado reduce the effect of the spoiler? Maybe we need some hard facts, perhaps a few laps around a fast track, spoiler up, then spoiler down, to see what the lap time difference would be? or which C sustained the most tyre wall damage? :lol:

Anyone who disables their spoiler, or refuses to repair a stuck one(A lad I know, who thinks he knows better), is an idiot. As other people have pointed out, the aerodynamic shape of the C has a downside, which is rear end lift caused by airflow at high speeds. The spoiler breaks up that airflow, preventing it from causing said lift. If the german models raise at 75mph, well then that is the speed at which it is required. Most of us break the speed limit in our corrado's i'm sure, and if i'm going to have to brake heavily & swerve for some other idiot on the motorway/track/autobahn, I 'd rather have some grip at the back end thankyou very much. I hardly think VW would put one on for a gimmick, being one of the most boring & conservative car manufacturers out there! So lets have a bit of trust in the engineers.... at least they bothered to fix the problem before they released the car, unlike Audi's TT!

Why, do they crack? Hose connections looked ok

Does anyone have any tips for dissembling BBS RS rims? I've got the outer 'lips' off but i'm struggling to remove the hub centre from the main 'drum'. I've tried belting it with a rubber mallet, and have already run a blade through the factory sealant, I think it must of formed a strong bond! I don't want to try and prise it off with a tool in case I damage the mating faces. Maybe I should be using heat, or something to break down the sealant? I'm in no rush anyway, might as well do it right! Cheers

I was doing an oil change this morning, I noticed while warming the engine up that there was a small amount of steam rising from the back of the radiator, and some small coolant splashes/condensation on the fan. As the engine got up to temperature, the steam disappeared. It definately smelled of coolant but I can't see any damage the on the rad. Should I wait until it gets worse, or is it about to burst? Can they be repaired? (I don't mean that radweld stuff though!) has anyone bought a G60 rad recently, from VAG or elsewhere? Cheers

now you mention it, it looks like a micro-machine! Can never make my mind up about the red, when its clean & polished i love it, but most of the time I wish It was another, more durable colour. It looks awful at night under petrol station lighting! The interior now has black cloth recaro's, with door cards converted to late spec grab handles, and audioscape door pods housing the EW switches. The holes left by the old switches now house tweeters, I will take some pics tomorrow.

Yeah true, the bodywork hadn't even dried off either! The red seats have gone to another Red C owner, and the wheels will made redundant when the spring comes....

A few more recent pics..

Mine sounds deep and throaty at idle, drony when slowly accelerating through the gears, but then very deep and v6-ish when giving it some, not farty at all really. My zorst is a custom system with a large middle box, I don't know who built it though. I never really hear the 'charger', but then i've never had a standard exhaust.......

I was thinking of putting two gauges in place of the ashtray/cig lighter, my idea for a way of doing it is this - 1) Remove cig lighter & ashtray retaining 'clip' 2) Bond ashtray & cig lighter trim together 'in-situ' with very stong epoxy 3) When hardened, remove from dashboard 4) Bore two holes in the new piece to suit gauges, cut away excess plastic at the back 5) Trim in black leather or vinyl, fit gauges. It would almost look stock, bet someone on here has done something similar?

Won't ET12 on the front ruin the steering/handling? I used to have ET25 BBS and it was very bump-steery at that, had to keep a tight grip on the steering wheel!

what would be left to try then? Could balljoints make a noise like that? subframe mounts/bushes?

:lol: why mineral water? wouldnt Distilled/De-ionised water be better?!

Could be. I had new genuine top mounts fitted when the car was lowered, top mounts usually clunk when driving over rough surfaces when they are knackered. At first i thought it was the lowering springs moving about in the locations, but the 'clunk' feels like its coming from the steering/bottom end..

The back of my RS 114x5 stud are very similar to that, i'm still going to have them re-drilled though. Mine are 7J ET33, and 8J ET24. Take it you need 4 x 100? two of the holes can be placed close to the existing ones, I don't think it will make any real difference anyway as the casting is a rigid lump, its not going to flex when the bolts are tightened up. Just had a look at mine now, it might be best having a shallower radius seating for the new holes to compensate for the hub being thinner between the existing holes, of course slightly longer bolts would be needed to compensate, say 5mm longer, but would need to check if the back of the centre caps would foul on the bolt heads (looks ok but I will measure this.) There should be lots of engineering shops/precision toolmakers that can do this work, I am working on a cad drawing for it, let me know if you want a copy to suit yours. p.s. are yours definately ET25 from a porsche? porsche offsets are usually ET52- ET70.

Did anyone manage to sort this problem out? I've had it for about a year, single clunk on left lock reverse, then another clunk as I drive forward and steer right. Its gradually getting worse, like a few people though, it started happening shortly after fitting lowered suspension. I can feel it through the steering wheel/chassis, and almost feels something is shifting about in the steering or subframe.

When I first bought my old mk2 8v with 80k on the clock, the insides of the cylinders and back of the valves were pretty black, although the fuelling was spot on and plugs were clean. When Optimax came out I was using it 90% of the time. By the time I came to sell it fours years on at 122k, the pistons were very clean and the back of the valves were absolutely spotless! The car had any never had any engine running problems, or fuelling/timing parts replaced in the time that I owned it, so its hard to say what cleaned it up other than the use of Optimax. Not very scientific I know, but I was surprised at the difference I saw.

cheers for the response guys, think I will get myself some of that metal polish & some more carnauba wax. Billinjahg60 - I don't know who's going to do the machining work yet, I actually work in engineering and could Jig Bore them, but we're at that busy at the moment, it just won't get done. Can you recommend anyone to do the work? Carpoid - that pic of your converted rim looks exactly the same as mine, the new holes on 100 pcd are very close to the centre cap bore, only just enough room to get a socket on the wheel bolts I bet! which RS number are yours? doesn't yours have ET45 stamped on the wheel? They look like they converted very well, the old holes must of been welded/brazed up or threaded inserts put in. I was only going to fill one hole in, but might as well do them all now, make it look like a proper job...

Nah.... the g60 was tuned for 98 Octane... and it says minimum 98 Octane on the inside of my fuel flap. The CAT is only linked to 95 RON fuel because 98 four star was replaced by 95 RON unleaded (sneaky barstewards) And fiddling with the dizzy on a g60 will do bugger all... they have a knock sensor.

Anyone have these on their corrado? I picked a set up off ebay, bloody gorgeous they are but are from a Toyota import which is a 5 x 114 pcd, so quite a bit of machining work required to convert them to 4 x100. At least the offsets are ok being 8J ET24 on the rear and 7J ET33 upfront. The fronts are RS037's and the rears are RS167. The outer rims had already been mirror polished then rebuilt by the last owner owner, but he got the rims mixed up (currently 7.5J all round!) and sealed them with clear silicone which I doubt is up to the job. So i'm planning to get the centres powder coated and the alloy centre caps mirror polished, here's a pic of what they look like at present. What polish/waxes do you guys use on polished rims to stop the weather dulling them? I don't think i'll be fitting them until way after winter tho!