MikLSP

Is it best to take the radiator off to get at the oil cooler or is that not necessary?

Thanks, will have a look. It's annoying not knowing where things are and likely culprits but I guess it's all a learning curve ;)

Re: ABS sensors I read that they should give a resistance of 800-1400 ohms so that would suggest that the rears are in range and the fronts are breaking the circuit. Both front sensors ordered from the good man at Volksworld in Preston. The NSF sensor was definitely connected, I also tested it directly at the sensor terminals and got the same result. Re: Oil leak I will clean it up and try to find the source. It didn't seem to be coming from as high as the rocker cover though, the oil isn't visible when looking from the top of the engine but it could be somewhere obscured from view by the manifold? Re: PAS hose ok thanks, I did ensure that it was still well attached and thought that it was just the outer sheath that was knackered but wasn't sure if it would be ok without that. I'll give it a clean up and see how it goes. Re: Idle speed BTS also on it's way, will see what happens once that's installed and also give the idle stabilisation valve and throttle body a clean. Re: Gearbox I attached a recording here which should give a better description than any words ;) Re: VAG-COM I'd like to have a proper one but unfortunately my £200 would be better spent on the actual repairs at the moment :? Thanks for the replies, things should start looking up once a few bits get sorted rather than just adding to the faults list.

Looks fabulous and would be even better with a gentle lowering imo. It would just sit nicely on those alloys if it was a bit closer :salute:

Insurer - "Any insurance claims in the last 5 years?" Driver - "Er........yeah" Insurer - "What was the cost of the claim" Driver - *mumbles* "£300,000" Insurer - "Sorry Sir, can you repeat that please" Driver - "sigh.......£300,000" Insurer - "Thank-you Sir, your new annual premium is....well let's just say you might need a re-mortgage" :lol:

I wish I knew more about these cars....I've had a bit more of a delve into things today and seem to be finding more problems than solutions :( I got a VAG-COM cable and freeware software for basic diagnosis and ran an ABS diagnostic only to receive the message: I then tested the ABS sensors for resistivity with a multi-meter and found the following: OSR - 1060 ohms NSR - 1050 ohms OSF - 1200000 ohms NSF - >2000000 ohms I take it this clearly shows that both front sensors are knackered (at least that's progress) but I'm guessing there's more than just those two faults going by the VAG-COM error :( ======================================================================================================== While on the VAG-COM I also checked the engine: After clearing the faults and running the engine I got this: The 513 code relates to low idle RPM I believe and my car doesn't idle when cold.....could this still be due to a faulty blue temp sensor or does it indicate something else? ======================================================================================================== The next problem I've found is a small oil leak coming from somewhere at the front of the engine. I've taken a picture upwards towards the engine to show the area, any idea what's the likely source? climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfDSC00068.JPG[/attachment:3m3i4xij] A little further to the right there is also this rather weary looking hose. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSC00069.JPG[/attachment:3m3i4xij] ======================================================================================================== Finally I've found a couple of broken and disconnected earth leads; one under the rear seat and one quite large strap type connection to the bonnet which has broken near the NS hinge...anyone know what this is this for? A last thing for today is a pretty sizeable resistor which I've found to be floating around near the ABS pump. It's connected but I don't know what it's for or where it should be mounted. DSC00066.JPG[/attachment:3m3i4xij] Thanks and sorry for the huge moany post ;) Mik

Nobody have any thoughts on the noise? :(

Looks like this is going to turn into a great car. How much do the full cooling job set you back?

Resurrecting a bit of an old thread here I know but I have: ABT A11 17" alloys leather ABT steering wheel aluminium ABT gearknob ABT engine cover Mik :salute:

OK, the man at the garage said he didn't hear anything on first gear so he clearly didn't spend enough time checking this out! I've just got my friend to record the sound on his phone held out of the window. I accelerated a little in first gear which makes a horrible noise, I then dipped the clutch which stops it immediately and then sharply added and removed load before changing into second gear at the end. On this recording it sounds a little different to how I was getting it in the car and is less rattly and more......not even sure how to describe the sound :confused4: but I guess this is more accurate than any description. First Gear Rattle.mp3[/attachment:3nq7mtfa] Thoughts? Thanks as always, Mik

It's basically like a loose rattly noise and occurs while first gear is engaged even if just trundling along and not applying much load. It's hard to describe really but if you image really horrible chain rattle it's that sort of noise but only occurs when moving in first gear.

Thanks, good to hear it's not just me telling myself it's a decent deal ;) I was happy to consider it even as a Cat C because resale value wasn't my concern, especially at this sort of price. Of course there are some imperfections with the bodywork repair but again I'm realistic about the standard of car I was going to get for my money. I just hope it doesn't end up costing me too much to sort a few things out....fingers crossed :wink:

Just dropped it of at the garage and I paid particular attention to 2nd gear as well. It certainly doesn't make the same rattly noise but it was a little whiny when cold so I guess there's a bit of wear there too.

@ SIMONG My Golf is a 1.6 8v too though it will be up for sale soon and back to one car. @ Leonard Yes, the torque rather than power. Basically it just has nothing to offer at low revs. I don't mind working the gears to get the best out of it though. Mik

Seems everyone is being reminded of Goldie's car...it's even the same colour :lol: Anyway, there's a new N19x DTP on the block and it's eager to benefit from some shared knowledge and experience :salute:

It's definitely a rattle and not a whine or grind. Second gear doesn't make the noise and neither do any others. If it was the clutch would it not make the same noise regardless of which gear is selected? Is there anything I could do to test if it is that? Cheers, Mik

Thanks Kev, a very informative reply (as usual) :cheers: I will see if the diagnostic shows me tomorrow and if nothing I'll start with replacing the sensor. I am of course assuming that BTS stands for Blue Temperature Sensor?

It only happens when the car is moving in first gear and stops immediately when depressing the clutch. There's no similar noise in other gears regardless of the revs. Yes it does sound like a tinny rattle and certainly isn't a grinding.

Thanks, so the Schrick manifold gives lower down power while the cams give it at the high end and one is a bit imbalanced without the other. It's something to consider for the future and the manifold will always retain it's value but I won't be shelling out that just now. As you said the other stuff will be sorted first and right now my budget isn't very big, hence me starting of with a car in this price range :) Anyone have any ideas/experience on the first gear noise, that's what's dragging the whole thing down for me at the moment :(

Thanks for the reply, I've seen the "blue temperature sensor" mentioned before so this is perhaps a common culprit. I think I should have no problem with VAG-COM diagnosing it as the problem is not intermittent, if the engine is cold it's rough.

I don't have a Schrick manifold no, that would have been a big swing in favour if it did just because they're worth so much. Would I see benefit from adding the Schrick manifold with the cams and big bore throttle body? I read that they can cause a big drop in power over 4000rpm? :confused4:

I don't have VAG-COM access but know a man who does when I can get there. It;s going in for a check tomorrow for a few things so hopefully they'll find the fault. I take it the engine should still be able to run ok when cold on 268 cams? Mik

I don't know how we missed this when buying the car and can only think that it was from not running it long enough for the gear oil to warm up and make the noise apparent but anyway.... I have a nasty rattly noise coming from first gear :( The car still drives in the gear and the noise stops if you disengage the clutch or when running in any other gear. I'm guessing that the first gear cog is knackered so am I looking at a box rebuild or could there be another explanation? It's going in for a diagnosis tomorrow but I wondered if anyone has knowledge or experience of something similar? Also would you advise considering a used box from a car that's being broken, of course I don't want to just swap one bad box for another! Cheers, Mik UPDATE: Having had the gearbox removed and sent away it turns out that my problem was a broken first gear housing and bearing which seized then turned. There were also several knock on effects which I'm afraid I can't remember seeing as I don't know the first thing about gearboxes. Ultimately the solution was a box rebuild for £420 so if you come across a noise like the one I had, bear this in mind!

Hi, I'm embarking on sorting the problems with my first Corrado now and one of these is a very poor idle and rough running when starting from cold. The car starts no problem but the revs are not smooth and it will just constantly stall. As it warms up this gets gradually better and once the engine is up to temperature it runs very smooth and has a nice steady idle. Is this likely to be a temperature sensor fault and if so which is the most likely suspect/how should I diagnose. The engine does also have Schrick 268 cams which may be a contributing factor but as I mentioned it does idle just fine when warmed up. Thanks, Mik

The lack of low down power is surprising but I think it's just a case of knowing how to get the best out of the engine. Also would the 268 cams shift the power band and make it even worse below 3000rpm?