MikLSP

If it's the original thermostat housing then it will be worth getting one. Here is mine that I took off today, similarly to Matt's the inner edge had completely disintegrated but to a greater extent as only the corners remained. As a result the seal had deformed badly and was leaking. You can also see there's a pretty major crack working it's way across the whole body! climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfN194 DTP Thermostat Housing 1.JPG[/attachment:1u9q1u2x]2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfN194 DTP Thermostat Housing 2.JPG[/attachment:1u9q1u2x]N194 DTP Thermostat Housing 3.JPG[/attachment:1u9q1u2x]

Oh, wish I'd known about this while I was looking for my Corrado. I did think of entering different postcodes myself to try and track the locations down but it would have been much easier if I'd used that site, good work.

Connect it to VAG-COM if you can and check the fault codes. If you don't have it then try the diagnosis checks across all the ECU pins as described in one of these pdf's. My '95 Corrado is the same as the one described in the '95 Golf manual. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfVolkswagen Corrado 1993 ABS Manual.pdf[/attachment:1dxu9oen] Volkswagen Golf 1995 ABS Manual.pdf[/attachment:1dxu9oen]

I'll be ringing VW tomorrow but I suspect they may be closed for the bank holiday (anyone know if they close or not) My problem is that I needed to use the car at the weekend and it's just typical that I decided to do this at bank holiday time :lol:

Evening all, I'm in a very disagreeable mood after spending bloody ages fitting a new thermostat housing to sort my water leak. Those god damn clips on the hoses already got me in a bad mood and then a rounded bolt didn't help but eventually I got the old housing off and found that it was completely shagged! Good job I'm doing this job, I thought, as the old one probably wouldn't have held out much longer. So I started with the new housing and came to fit the thermostat, it wasn't a very good fit but it was at least too tight rather than being loose. The thermostat cover (don't know what it's actually called) was even worse though and I was dubious as to whether it would be water tight. Again though it was an awkward squeeze rather than loose so I guessed that once all done up all would be well. I got the whole thing on the car no problem and only wish now that I had tested it's ability to contain water before I did that! I began filling the coolant reservoir and soon noticed that there was tons of water coming straight back out! I took off the cover from the yellow, blue and black sensors to find that coolant was running out from around them like a running tap (I didn't forget to put the o-rings or clips in)! There also seems to be a slower leak from around the thermostat cover. I had no silicone sealant but I read that it was optional and thought that the rubber seals would be enough, is silicone essential? It seems that the housing is so poorly made that it's simply the wrong shape and now I'm left with a car I cannot even drive to change the part or get to a garage for help! I'm furious!!! Anyone had similar problems with new housings? How much are the parts directly from VW (I'm considering paying them to do the whole thing as I'm so annoyed with the job!) :mad2: :bad-words: rant over ;) Mik

It's in the thermostat housing on the front of the engine, here's a pic I found elsewhere: Sensor Part No: 025 906 041 A DO NOT do this job unless the engine is cool Disconnect the power to the radiator fans just to be safe. Remove the black plastic cover on the sensors (not shown) this unclips by pulling to the right, there are no screws holding it on. Disconnect the wiring and move it out of the way. The sensor is held in with a simple clip which is pulled out vertically allowing removal of the sensor from the housing. Simply pull the sensor out, there is no screw thread and mine was not particularly tight once the clip was removed. Be ready with a rag to plug the hole as coolant will come gushing out as soon as you remove the sensor. Make sure that the old o-ring has come out with the sensor, if not fish it out of the hole in the thermostat housing. Push in the new sensor with a new o-ring and re-fit the clip (I had a new clip too but my old ones are metal and easily reusable). Reconnect the electics, re-fit the plastic cover and reconnect the radiator fans. All done, it's really a very easy job but also check that your throttle body is clean and have a look for any other splits in the intake or breather hoses etc.

Will do. I'll check as much of the electrics as I can as well though, I'm sure we'll get to the bottom of this eventually..... Thermostat housing, seal and oil cooler seals ordered btw.

I've no problem checking the continuity and am going to follow that pdf which gives a series of check to do across each ECU pin etc. but as for needing to applying higher voltage/current I wasn't going to do that without knowing what I was doing

Certainly give the ISV a clean and the throttle body too, mine now only struggles for about a minute or so and then settles down rather than until the coolant got up to temperature as before. I'm going to give the ISV a better clean out and sort that breather hose and hopefully then it will be fully resolved.

Ha, join the club...I found the same thing just the other day. I've not got round to fixing it back on yet as I've had the other faults on my mind first and it doesn't seem to be doing any harm.

:pale: thanks! I can't understand how we didn't hear it when viewing the car, or even when driving it home :scratch: It's looking the only way to find out what's going on will be to get the box off. Any advice on buying second hand gearboxes and anyone in Lancaster got one they don't need? :lol:

Here's hoping it is just an electrical problem... I noticed they were saying that multi-meter power may be too low to show the fault with just continuity testing and that another power source should be applied. I hate electronics so I'm never sure what's right to do, should I apply a 12V power source to each rely, valve pins etc?

Glad to hear that she admitted doing the damage and didn't just leave before you came back...or even leave without even knowing that she'd hit your car for that matter ;) I don't think that dent will "pull" out as such but I'm pretty sure a body shop will be able to repair it. The metal is still intact so I'd guess can be reshaped.

Decided to have an oil free day today so left the engine alone and gave the interior a clean up, pics are now in the first post. I think it's looking half decent and I'm so glad I got the leather interior :) Found a host of stuff too including £3.20 in the drivers seat, a mini torch, a key, some plastic which is likely from the broken centre console clips, velcro,and a wizened tangerine! N194 DTP Junk.JPG[/attachment:1amwzrbu] ===================================================================================================== ABS: Back on the faults, I read that setting the latency in VAG-COM to 5 would let it communicate with the ABS ECU better and whoever said that was right! Before changing it I still got the comm error message but after I got the following: Cleared and rechecked to just get the one: Anyone had this error before or can shed light on what it means exactly? Mik

Anyone at all? :shrug:

Thanks, it was fiddly enough changing the blue temperature sensor so I think it would definitely be worth taking the front off and sorting both the oil cooler and thermostat leaks at the same time. Is it just a new seal needed on the oil cooler or does the whole thing tend to need replacing? I'll have a look for the thermostat guide :salute: I was going to have a go at sealing that hose up with some plastic weld as I read VW sell it as an expensive unit, figured it wouldn't get any worse ;)

Mine apparently had that badge on the front and back in years gone by too but they were stolen :(

Thanks, I'd never seen in one before so had no idea if it was stuck in that position. I briefly considered trying to remove the electrical connector as there seems to be a separate plastic end plate and I thought it might be a route in but quickly decided not to as I expected to end up with something broken if I tried without looking it up :lol: I will give it another blast with carb cleaner. When you say pulse with 12V, can I connect it directly to the battery or should it be through something a little more controlled?

Replaced the blue temperature sensor today but it unfortunately didn't fix the poor cold idle. From there I decided to take off and clean up the air intake, throttle body and ISV. Got the throttle body nice and clean, there was a fair bit of dirt gathering around the butterfly. The ISV was very dirty and was open a little, I'm not sure if this is it's correct position or if it should close fully? I was also unsure whether it's possible to dismantle for proper cleaning so just gave it a blast with fluid. Can it be opened up or is carb cleaner the way to go? My cold idle is now definitely improved but still not right, I think the ISV needs a better clean out. I also noticed a split in the hose going into the breather valve which is no doubt contributing.

Spent the day working on a few things today... Cold Idle: Replaced the blue temperature sensor which unfortunately didn't fix the poor cold idle :( From there I decided to take off and clean up the air intake, throttle body and ISV. Got the throttle body nice and clean, there was a fair bit of dirt gathering around the butterfly. As for the ISV, here's a pic of it very dirty and in the position it was when removed from the car. Should it be fully closed or is that gap normal? climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfN194 DTP ISV.JPG[/attachment:28oxjpn8] I was unsure whether it's possible to dismantle for proper cleaning and I just gave it a blast with fluid. Can it be opened up or is carb cleaner the way to go? My cold idle is now definitely improved but still not right, I think the ISV needs a better clean out. I also noticed a split in the hose going into the breather valve which is no doubt contributing. N194 DTP Hose.JPG[/attachment:28oxjpn8] ===================================================================================================== Stiff Accelerator: Having cleaned the throttle body I gave the springs on it a good WD40ing as well as squirting a bit down the end of the throttle cable. The accelerator pedal is smoother now but perhaps a new cable would improve things further. ===================================================================================================== ABS: I put two new ABS sensors on the front, they were febi bilstein ones from Volksworld in Preston (£20 each) and they fit very well, no problems like people report with the GSF parts! I'm now getting correct resistivity readings but alas the ABS light is still on :pale: ===================================================================================================== Oil leak: I cleaned up a little (as much as I could reach with the car on the ground) around the oil leak and took another pic after running the engine, this gives a clearer view of the leak source....is it indeed the oil cooler seal? 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfN194 DTP Oil Leak 2.JPG[/attachment:28oxjpn8] ===================================================================================================== New problem: Oh and it seems customary that I find another fault each time I look so I seem to have a water leak too! This was the first time the ground has been dry for me to see :( Seems to be coming from somewhere around the thermostat, is this typical?

Nice concept but I'd say the chance of it having come from VW are slim to none :wink:

Sorry for taking so long but here are a few pics for you. I've not taken one of the wheels as you already know those ;) Gearknob: (bit worn but might polish up) climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfN194 DTP ABT Gearknob.JPG[/attachment:2upldp25] Leather Nardi steering wheel: (love this) 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfN194 DTP ABT Steering Wheel.JPG[/attachment:2upldp25] Engine cover badge: (it's actually a normal VW cover with the badge swapped as I discovered) N194 DTP Engine 1.JPG[/attachment:2upldp25] Mik

I love the new Scirocco and would go as far to say it's the best looking car VW have ever produced, not sure how many R's will sell though...they could be another Corrado being fabulous but overpriced. Future classic here we come. As for that "review" I turned it off as soon as he decided to test the 0-60 time on a hill then moaned that it was slower than VW claimed! :cuckoo:

I wouldn't give them a penny if they can't diagnose it properly. I have just bought a £10 VAG-COM cable and using the freeware software I also get the communication error on the ABS test. If they have the same result then perhaps they're skimping on the diagnostic tools as well. Take it somewhere better.

Were my eyes deceiving me or did this briefly appear on the Pistonheads Classifieds last night?