dbug

technically incorrect. the vehicle can be stripped for any and all parts. the chassis (VIN) number is scrapped on the database and is marked so that it can not be returned to the road. it is marked as a Cat B - Breaker only on the DVLA system. so the dealers can claim the £2k back the company that 'buys' the car has to issue a certificate of destruction which confirms that the car has been depoluted and removed from the road. however the certificate of destruction does not literally mean that the car has been destroyed :wink:

is it bernie and leepoo's latest creation :pukeright:

:wave: p.s i'm not a breaker but i am breaking an L reg 1.8/2.0 16v?? with late dash and good clean interior :grin: feel a transplant coming on if it is a 2.0 16v :norty:

if the L reg was not a 1.8 does this mean i have a 2.0 16v ?? i thought the 2.0 were 8v ?? the engine looks just like the 1.8 16v in my 89.

if the valve is closed then you will not have flushed the matrix only the engine/rad. you need to open the whole system up to flush the matrix. the valve must be fubared if you still have no warm air. dont waste any more time flushing, fit the straight pipes without the valves and test it that way ( try to save as much coolant as possible - must have cost you a fortune by now ) if the matrix is shot then you will smell it in the cabin as she warms up and probably get the screen fogging up in this weather if not you will get warm dry air.

no it points to the matrix circuit. which INCLUDES the valve that you have been trying to get to work. you can rest easy that the engine circuit is working as it should - the fan/temp sender is working and the thermostat is working.

info came from a vw tech - this is the process they use in the workshops on all the older cars ( has worked for my mk1 goof, t4, v5 beetle and rado so is tried and very well tested. ) the newer ones have to use a vacuum system due to the complex twist turns and piping routes

before you pull the dash out swap the pipes. ( cheapest and easiest fix + nothing lost if matrix is fubar then dash will need to come out anyway ) also did you run the engine up till the fan cut in ?? to correctly fill and bleed you should fill her up cap off and top up as the level drops ( fill it full you wont hurt her ) , as it becomes obvious that the coolant is getting warm( steam rising from the open neck of the bottle or top rad pipe very hot ) replace the cap and run the engine fast idle ( try to hold at 2000 rpm for a little while) up till the fan kicks in. turn off and allow to go cold. once cold ( overnight or a good 3/4 hours ) open bottle and refill to level and replace cap. run the car and check level again after next run top up if nessesary. shouldnt take more than 3 top ups to have cleared all air traps and hopefully a nice warm car too. :D

i had to up rate a battery in my van last year. i meausured the place it was going into and then took a trip to the local GSF ( or motor mart etc ) tell them the size and ask them for the largest Amp hour ( AH ) one to the required dimension. i got me a 100ah banner one for £85 fits a treat and lots of juice on tap. :clap: or run a seperate battery for the ice and drop in a split charge relay so you never have to worry about the engine one draining and the ice one can sit in the boot.

is 1,2 & 3 anygood?? was chatting to a 10 yr owner who told me to save my time as the other settings are not worth having.

i know exactly what your thinking - happened to me last year bought a mk1 golf cab in may 09. it ran ok but needed work. spent over £1k sorting out engine wheels etc etc and got well :censored: off with it as was never right. then a nissan almera came up for a song so i sold the goof and regretted it within 48 hours. at this point i was over £2000 out of pocket with a car that had no soul and had nothing that i could get my hands on. christmas came and the Rado was made available to me. i sold the 'grandad smells of wee car' and snapped it up. yes it needs some work, the heating didn't work ( sorted that as per your other thread ) and i am now working my way through the other bits. you have put alot into yours over the years so i would be very loath to break her till its fails an MOT in a massive way. a rental car for a couple of months would be possibly a cheaper option than selling/breaking and losing all that money and time already spent. remember its a 20 year old motor that has a soul, and can be easily fixed without computer or specialist tools at the side of the road. the heating is a cheap quick fix to test ( less than an hours labour to find out the management light on the dash means it needs a new set of plugs in the rice ). now stop sitting on here and get them pipes sorted :wink:

how old is your motor?? and how big a job is it ?? i have read that the dash has to come out - but hope that my 89 16v maybe a little easier than the later ones. skinny - same issue as mine was warm then suddenly went cold/luke warm. i would ditch the valve, reverse flush, 2 bottles of the fancy anti freeze and see what happens. carry a spare pipe to bypass just in case it does burst - so far mine has been good and i spend at least 20 mins a night in stop start traffic. no leak and having to turn the temp down as its too warm in there.

the valve is designed to close if the pressure in the matrix is lower than the rest of the system the air in the matrix could be triggering the valve. go for the reverse flush ( put hose in the left pipe ) then refill. the valve may no longer be servicable so may be worth just replacing them with 2 pipes and no valves. one other good tip i got from VW was to put upto 3 bottles of antifreeze in the system as it will then help clean all the channels out. then flush after 8 weeks and return it back to 2 bottles and water mix. its a trick they have used for several years

took mine out today and replaced them with 2 later pipes. no heat to lots of heat in 20 mins !! chatting with a VW tech today who told me that they are now obsolete parts to replace and were only fitted as a safe guard to the heater matrix springing a leak ( they got sued by a few in the US when their toes got burnt ) - not fitted to the later ones.