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just use the cheap 10/40 from gsf in my kr. its normally a semi synthetic. noisy tappets will probably mean they need swapping out, but if you have used fully synth then it will have been too thin an oil and you want to drop it quick before you do any perm damage.

nah , you get used to it going up, the fun part is trying to guess when it is going back down - sometimes you have to get to a complete stop , and others it drops cause you have been driving like miss daisy :lol:

But....... It don't really matter what speed it comes up at , cause you can never replace the feeling of watching it go up and down in the rear veiw mirror ;-)

Good find! Did it work ok? Don't panic if you need to top up once or twice over next couple of days.

have you knocked it over the spring clip fitted to the end of the drive shaft ? put gearbox in neutral and turn drive shaft to help engage splines. my new ones slid straight in and the nut did up tight so that about 4 threads are showing above the nut.

Not the hose . The matrix, use a hosepipe to gently fill it, that way you know it's full when you start her up. Removes one of the potential airlocks as the matrix is one of the highest points in the system .

Is the car parked level when you fill it up? Has the matrix gone? Look for damp under/around airbox in cabin. Remove top matrix pipe from bulkhead end, top upwith hose and refit pipe. Then redo the warm up process above.

did you have the pleasure of being one of my previous owners ??

sump gasket leak turned out to be a porous oil pan, £23 later and a new plastic sump seal £10 from GSF, and all is good. its a common fault on these oil pans so worth swapping them if they are over 10 years old, although how they can go porous when they are bathed in oil all there life is beyond me :lol:

if engine is cold fill expansion bottle, cap off start car, let it warm up topping it up as needed and gently squeezing top rad hose.set interior blower to no.2 and heat to max once water starts to get warm in tank refit cap tight and warm till normal temp ( or fan kicks in ). let it cool and then recheck level in bottle - will probably need a top up. job done. :wink:

pulley's required are, double crank pulley single outer waterpump pulley single pas pulley single alternator pully all the above are standard fit pully's that are originally on the car. the only one you lose is the noisy free running pully at the back of the waterpump one. i just used 3 washers behind the waterpump pulley to lift it out 1mm or so but in all fairness you could probably not bother as there is enough flex in the v belt. when you fit the alternator belt it works the opposite way round to tighten it, ie you push it towards the engine to tighten and let it drop to the rad to slacken. would suggest its worth getting the belt either side of 888 so if you have a different sized pully to mine you have the option to swap it without the trip back and forth to the motor fators. you can then take the 2 back you dont need.

just removed the slipper pulley completely, changed alt belt for one that is 888mm long and put 3 washers behind the waterpump pulley to shim it out to line up with the pas/crank pullies. longest part of the job was getting the right length belt and it involved me going back and forth to the motor factor 3 times !! :epicfail:

looks like the one at the beginning of the thread - oh and the silence is golden :clap:

fixed my idle today by replacing one of the sensors ( single black pin one ) that lives on the side of the block by the heater matrix pipe - one of them had broken its tab off so no signal was being sent to the isv. repalced it (£5 from gsf ) and now have a lovely idling engine.

Job done. Removed idle pully from behind waterpump pulley used 888mm x 10mm toothed belt and it works fine. Also have adjustment to tighten as belt weakens. Clearance is around 15mm on waterpump housing. Used 3 washers to space the waterpump pully in line with crank and pas pump.

Answered his phone on a bank holiday Friday and got me out of the shit big time thank you, thank you, thank you. Mitch

Found a broken camshaft pully when swapping the timing belt. Thanks to Vince at Stealth got a replacement one on a bank holiday friday. Fitted and all back together. Ps thanks vw for the bottom pully set up - took an hour, 3 of us and the search function on here to find out it just pushes onto the crank! ! !

bank holiday = rado jobs to be done ( you know the annoying bits that you leave as long as possible :lol: ) cam belt & tensioner swap :gag: rocker cover gasket :brickwall: o/s cv joint :norty: sump gasket :roll: oil and filter . . . . :D then on sunday & monday i will spend most of the day trying to get all the crap out from behind my nails :camp:

i paid £17 for a complete cv joint kit from GSF inc new boot, grease, clips, bolts,circlip and nuts. ditched the clips for the boot - why are they so hard to fit ?? - and stuck a couple of cable ties on. took an hour or so to do on the drive.

and if all else fails i have spoiler switches available and a complete rear door with working spoiler/wiper/glass if you need them. ( blatent plug to try to get some more gear shifted :lol: )

I assume you have checked the levels ?

A lot cheaper to buy the 2.3 v5 se and get a remap. Ours runs 200 at the wheels according to it's history;-)

you used to be able to buy a spray to tint your own. i have a couple of standard sets in my sale thread if you want some to paint yourself.

blue tac chewing gum silicon sealant any of the above work well, also if you take the switches out of the left hand side it gives you a little more room to get your fingers in.

great to meet you both. :wave: thanks for the chance to slip it in . . . :lol: :lol: mitch