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Sounds like thermostat. Time consuming but easy job. Pas pump off and fiddle about or take alternator and water pump off - easy. I would also swap waterpump ( cheap ) whilst your there. Don't forget 40% mix of g12 coolant when you refill.

If you still have the early frontbumper then I have a set of fogs/ indicators in my for sale thread

take the lower dash panel off, then you need to push the outside bottom of the glovebox up as you force it out. there is a small raised box section that needs to get over the frame of the dash to take it out - plenty of brute force shifts it. you are missing the front cover plate for the screws - and it just so happens that i have a complete glove box in my for sale thread below. mitch

load sensing linkage needs a good soak in wd 40 and a wire brush. followed by some lube. no idea on rest :D

Lots of looks but not had one offer only 89 valver. Was standard on sebrings with paint that looked 20 years old. Swapped it in the end with a mate. I would rape the good bits off and back to standard then advertise it in auto-trader as most on here can't see any ads other than the heavy, fuel drinking V's and you would be waiting ages to sell. ps- have driven both back to back (2.9 ! ) and the 1.8 valver got my money everytime........

New sunroof seal fitted - no more wet headlining ......

one of these will do me nicely - i'm sure that several power mods will be along soon, fat wheels and a lowrider air bag kit . . . . anyone got the 5 numbers for saturday night handy ? ( not greedy dont need the jackpot :D )

evening all, thought i would share a fix that i did this evening on my sunroof that has quickly and very cheaply fixed a problem with the sunroof on my valver - sorry if its a repost but not seen this mentioned before :D my roof would happily tilt and start to slide but would stop suddenly after dropping the rear edge down. today i washed the car and p :censored: ed off with a leaking sunroof soaking my inner headlining i pulled the centre of the sunroof back to 'look' how it was leaking. the whole lining moved backwards into the headlining opening up the mechanism of the sliding rails and various lift parts of the sunroof. at the rear of the slider ( both sides ) is a silver rocking bar that engages into the slider and pulls the roof to the rear of the car. on the back edge of this rocker is a small rubber foot - like a small o ring that in my case had been flatened on the bottom and therefore was not holding the rocker in the correct position to allow it to drop into the slider. i removed the old o ring and replaced it with a peice of windscreen washer tube ( it has a similar centre bore to the original part ) and hey presto a sliding roof. cost me nothing but time to fix - and didn't have to remove the sunroof frame from car to make it work - bonus. Mitch

clutch slave cylinder went pop monday morning, new one from gsf ( half the price of the stealers !! ) fitted and back on the road. also found the annoying unknown water leak , the flange from the head to the matrix return pipe is weeping along the tooling marks from the injection moulding. rang the stealers ( gsf dont do them for the 16v ) and got told non in uk :confused4: . europarts have them in stock and £10 later it is being posted to me :clap: will swap oil cooler whilst the coolant system is split as it looks like its on its last legs then must get round to doing the front top mounts :lol:

p.s the coolant should be a 40% mix so i use the first empty bottle to make the mix in that way you know that you always have the right strength :wink:

just found mine, the flange on the head that the return matrix pipe fastens to. the machine moulding line when it was made has started to weep, £10 later from europarts and she will be water loss free this weekend ( fingers crossed )

done this mod in a couple of cars. 1st mod is to remove the side light circuit and wire indicator onto side light bulb ( change bulb to orange ) in the later vw's you still get the half power headlights that you could 'claim' to be side lights. 2nd mod is to carefully drill into the headlamp bowl and fit a bulb holder into the new hole with indicator lamp.

if i required knowledge of how hydraulics work then i would have googled it . i did not ask for that info, i wanted to know if i split the clutch circuit does the brake circuit also require bleeding. i also wanted to know if this was do-able on the road side or if i needed ramps etc. you answered neither question,therfore your selfless concern for the welfare of others possibly leading to you incurring a loss for oneself was wasted,you should have spent a little more time reading my question then you would have deleted your post prior to hitting the submit button. Sarcastic enough for you ! For all those interested in the replacement details of the slave see below just over an hour to complete :wink: i have removed the slave cylinder at the road side - easy clamp flexi with mole grips or similar to reduce fluid loss, undo hydraulic pipe nut 12mm put car into reverse gear to move gate out of way of the 2 13mm bolts holding slave to gearbox. undo 2 bolts - the front one needs a wiggle remove slave cylinder replace new slave fix hydraulics and top off reservoir release mole grips and bleed slave ( 2 people makes this bit a little easier ) job done.

Really useful that - not. Anyone got some corrado specific info. Thanks

This has just happened on my 1.8 16v - are they the same boxes? Do you have to bleed the clutch/brakes to do this fix? Can it be done roadside easily ? Needcar back on road quickly Cheers

Buy a new one they are cheap and the mounting bracket will clean up with the usual gunk etc. I am always supprised at what WD40 cleans...

A recode cost me an hours labour at the stealers. Don't forget to take all your keys with you....

Same issue- thanks for great info

Some great info - thanks

i was chatting to one the other week - he hates doing rados due to all the bits that vw have fitted/glued to etc when i told him i was thinking of swapping mine out he asked me not to ring him and it was a cheaper option to smash it and claim than getting him to do it :lol:

thanks :D

check the 3 single sensors on the side of the block below the isv. they are temp senders for the isv 'brain' one of mine had corroded the pin away from the sender and was sending no signal so isv wasn't working. £5 later and and all the idle issues have gone and she runs so much sweeter.

i buy mine from GSF as i get a trade price - but some buy it from the stealers ( its the same stuff :wink: ) you need a 40% mix coolant to water. you need to use it to stop the block rusting ( it has an inhibiter to keep the system nice an pinky clean ) 108 - is that your oil temp or water. if its water then its way too high and you also need to check your fan is kicking in around 95. oil temp is fine in standing traffic and can go higher.

possible isv related - take it off and clean it with carb cleaner and then a light lube with some 3in1 plenty of threads relating to this issue in the engine section

nah - it works the other way round with oil you want it thin when cold and stickier when warm so it coats parts rather than just bathing it. ok it does get runnier when hot and you normally warm it up to drop it out but its the physical property of the oil not the fluidity that does the magic bit. hope that makes sense. synthetic oil is very 'thin' when cold due to the tight tollerences that are found in hi-po engines so thats why you use it in V engines, but in our 20 year old 4 pot lumps they didn't build them to the same tollerence and thats why it costs us £10 for a gallon not £45 :clap: hope this helps.