G60

ya i read your post.. sorry don't know offhand any of that stuff.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=916401 :roll: :?:

erm.. 15w50 mobil 1 tri-synth that is.

i use 15w50 ... works great and lasts longer than other oils i'm familiar with. i still change it at 5000km... doin it tonight again actually now that the charger is broken in and my fuel pressure regulator has arrived... time to go for a good rip! :D ..well, not all out... but harder than i have been. :? i need to buy a dyno for the backyard ;)

i wish the inpros weren't so bling. i hate that fake chrome shiz. (sorry endor..they look best on white C's tho!)

shave those handles right off!! :D

i built something similar for my old cavalier.. much much bigger though. it held about 40 cds and had a hidden compartment under the cds where i kept my 'valued goods' ;) doesn't get in the way when plowing through the gears into 2nd and 4th? ..my cavo was automatic so i didn't have to worry about it. my friend took the top off his armrest (in his jap-crap-mobile) cuz he always smashed his elbow when shifting hard. he butchers that car tho :lol:

its sealed off from dirt and dust and nasty crap. even places with spray booths can have filthy ones... the dealership i worked at had a spray both that was basically useless. just kept overspray away from the other cars.

i knew you'd poke your head around eventually john! how about some pics of your setup?? :D

what're you paying for the bodywork? what's being done? i think i might just bite the bullet and pay to have the car taken to metal and completely redone (interior, boot, bonnet). the half-assed bodywork on my car makes me *uckin sick. :x

do you still put on the rebar? (metal bumper..)

how many horsepower is that good for??? :? :lol:

i imagine that the 16v would be worth the extra tuning possibilities, but if you're planning on using a smaller pulley, you're not going to be able to take the 16v very high into its peak rpm range... so imho its not worth the effort/$$$ to make the conversion. for me personally anyway.. not saying i wouldn't love to be driving one!! about pulleys, basically.. when you put a smaller pulley on the supercharger, it spins faster, creating more pressure, and moving more air, sooner in the rpm's and for greater peak pressure and cfm into the engine at redline. when you use a smaller pulley, you're supposed to get a chip to help the ECU cope with the boost. the stock map sensor in the ecu only goes to 1bar (14.5psi).. so if you're making more than 1bar of boost, you need to upgrade the map sensor (bugger) or SNS makes a chip that is good at calculating values for fueling up fairly high.. 18-20psi is pretty much as much as you'll see out of a g-lader. porting the charger moves more air (cfm) more efficiently. more air into the engine means more power.. and a lot of fun. you need to match the fueling to support the boost.. .ie SNS stage 5-5 chip, 30# injectors (siemens DEKA or ford motorsport redtops by bosch) and a 3.5bar fuel pressure regulator. a crossflow head is a superior head design to the 8v PG head found on the G60 motor. when ported it is even more efficient. the intake on the crossflow is at the front of the engine, therefore shortening the intake path (faster boost build rate) and keeping the (hopefully) cool intake air away from that very hot exhaust. after driving for a while the PG head intake manifold becomes heatsoaked, raising intake temps. the crossflow intake stays much cooler.. or so i've heard. i think you might have to get a crossflow head from north america.. dunno if you have them over there. not sure about the stealth conversion but an extra 200cc's of displacement can't hurt. :twisted:

if i were you (well... i'm in the same situation as you)..i'm sticking with the 8v for the G60. i like low down torque, i like the smaller pulley on the charger that puts out a lot of boost in the low revs.. if you fit a 16v you'll either need to use a stock size pulley (78mm) or use a smaller pulley but stay low in the revs (which doesn't make sense for a 16v). i'd either put a ported crossflow head on the 8v PG block... or have the stock 8v head ported out to allow more flow. ..or, i'd find another car to stick the G60 setup in, and start fresh with a 16v turbo conversion in this car. i know a lot of people (especially in europe) do 16vG60 conversions, but it just makes more sense to me to do a 16v turbo instead and use the high-reving engine and save the g-lader for a low-rever like the 8v. g-laders were made to run smaller than stock pulley's imho. keep asking questions.. 8)

on the engine bay end of it there should be a little metal clip type thing... best way i can describe it is a metal golf 'tee'. there is a small bolt going through that 'tee' that can be losened and the line should be able to slip right out then. the bolt on the 'tee' in my car was sheared right off (damn PO) so i had to take it out the other way..... huge pain in the ass. ended up having to make up a new clip on the release handle to make it work again.. was about a day's work just getting the hood release to work and getting the hood to actually stay shut... and then open again. real hassle.

reason i ask is, the lights on my car are frickin awful (US spec), so i starting picking apart the wiring and getting it out in the open to see how i was going to rig up the relay... and someone has already done it. i can't imagine the lights being worse than they are... so i guess i need uprated connectors too. what i really need is some euro headlights. :x

question about this... if you uprate the loom to a thicker wire, but then splice the wire into the wire going into the headlight connector, than isn't the bottleneck still there because the connector has the stock gauge wire? don't you need to upgrade everything from the battery, to the relay, to the connection that goes into the bulb?

done about 1200km now and its feeling really good. really smooth especially on the highway. if you're in north america and you need bigger injectors, look up scott f. williams on the vwvortex, he sells 4 siemens DEKA (in many people's opinion better spray pattern than the ford motorsport/bosch ones) for $124 US shipped anywhere in the US or $134 US shipped to canada. if you need a 3.5bar fpr go to http://www.germanautoparts.com and get the $41 US one from them. more pics, etc soon. just waiting on parts and some time.

a guy from over here in canada had his G60 punked from outside a club he was in. just happened saturday night. makes the blood boil!!!!!! :x :mad:

dont worry about that earth to the bonnet.. most rip in half and no one is too concerned about it. fix it if you want but its not a big deal. mine's ripped.

the bigass hole darren cut is for his bigass front mount intercooler. an oil cooler is fairly easy to fit and can be placed down near the bottom of the rad below the charger without visual modification. you need a sandwich adapter which goes on where your oil filter screws in, then the oil filter screws into that... off of the sandwich adapter are an oil line out, and then a return line... run these lines to wherever you mounted your cooler and youre set. some sandwich adapters (the good ones) have a thermo built in that will only open after your oil reaches a certain temp... so you're not cooling already cold oil when youre trying to warm up the car to operating temperature. haha... yes, its been a long time coming for me and this car!! i'm well over the charger break in now, put about 1200km on it so far.. but with the amount of boost it's putting out i rarely take it over 3500rpm and i try to stay under 5psi of boost as much as i can (which is really fuggin hard i tell ya!!). i have an SNS 5-5 chip waiting to go in to handle all the boost, but i need to fit 3.5bar fpr and some 30# injectors before i can really open er up, those are in the mail from the states right now. even then, i need to dyno tune everything before i'm going anywhere near 5000+rpm. don't want to fry anything by leaning out.. so really... its not the charger i'm babying.. but the engine. it needs to make it through the summer and i hope to rebuild the top end over the cold months.

this isnt really related to the flashing light at lowish temperatures problem, but if you keep seeing really high oil temps (130C ??!!) fit an oil cooler. thats way too high and not incredibly healthy for the charger/engine. hottest i've ever seen mine was 112C but i haven't pushed it over 4200rpm this year yet. too much boost for the fuel system to handle right now. :? even 112C seems too high to me.. its not horrible but these cars really do need external oil coolers. operating oil temperature is directly related to charger longevity.

just drive out and see the one(s) youre serious about. don't buy a car without seeing it in person. i just drove 6-7 hours each way last week down to pennsylvania (altoona) from canada to get a hood (sorry.. bonnet, ahem)... a couple hundred dollar part. a whole CAR is a pretty big deal. get one of your buds, pack some sandwiches, roll and blunt, hop on the interstate and have a nice roadtrip. :thumb right: ..if you end up buying it, make sure its roadworthy, and just stop every hour or so to check on things under the hood until you get home.

i see both sides of this. but who's really going to follow through in court? not worth the hassle... and do you really care about your ebay reputation enough to drop thousands on a crap car? i dont.. i know its a real bugger to back out and i'm sure the seller would be pissed, but if you're backing out because the car isnt what the seller said it was, or something is wrong with it that wasn't mentioned... then what can he complain about? its misrepresentation.

so i'm backing out of my dad's driveway shortly after showing him the car (he hadn't seen it before this past weekend) and he goes "you're leakin on my driveway!" sure enough, coolant from right about where the charger bracket on the outlet side is, so the coolant drips off the oil pan basically. i just took that bracket out when i did the charger and there is a hole under there for when these blocks were carbed. i was told that this hole that the charger bracket covers will leak oil if not sealed properly... not coolant. so.....i'm guessing that the leak is coming from the oil/cooland heat exchanger where the oil filter screws in. is there anything else around this location that could be leaking coolant. the engine bay is pretty clean so i can usually see leaks or any problems, but this is down under the charger bracket.. or somewhere near there. any ideas?