ger040

I done several areas of my car during the summer with vw underseal and the new stuff is nothing like the original totally different in texture and finish and is expensive. I put it on with an underseal spray gun and was initially disappointed with it but once it was dry it is tough and I now believe it is far superior to the original!. and the dealer confirmed that it is all paintable

Hello

As above first check your timing

Fuel lines correctly installed at metering head?

i had a problem like this several years ago with a mk2 16v golf - the car had been sitting unloved for many years

when i came to eventually start it it would not go and the plugs were saturated with fuel and the oil in the sump eventually was contaminated with fuel.

The problem was a faulty metering head. (JUST NOTICED THAT YOU HAVE CHANGED YOURS!)

If i can remember i tested mine by removing an injector and turning the ignition to live where you will hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds and i can recall at this point there should be no fuel spraying from the injectors - the fuel will only spray once you turn the ignition further to start the car (mine was spraying fuel with the pump priming)

i located a replacement metering head and changed the oil and my car fired into life instantly.

was there not a story that vw tooling for the corrado wings broke during the last day/days of production and was never replaced!

thanks for the reply - had a vw technician up on sunday setting the timing and he managed to reset the abs via the gearstick port and all is ok now glad to report

Hello just trying to locate abs faults on my g60

On turning on the ignition but not starting the engine should you feel a click with your foot on the brake pedal

i remember this from a golf g60 i had years ago but wondering if it is the same with the corrado

and if so i assume that the pump is faulty?

Thanks

A car that i regret selling from this era was a golf rallye - i know its not in the same league as the lancia as it did not prove itself where it was meant to be on the world rally stages - i bought this car for 10k with 50,000km in 2000 it had a fantastic spec with the optional full electric recaro seats - it was just one of those cars at the time just everthing went wrong - the abs failed, the exhaust failed (genuine), the steering rack failed, the rear transfer box began to leak, then to top it off i parked it at my parents house only to find that as the brakes cooled it rolled down the hill and collided with my dads new merc. his had a slight scuff on the rear bumper and the door on my golf had caved in - should have put it in gear DOH. Any way over the couple of months spent £750.00 on a new door, £1,000 on a new genuine exhaust - vw uk at the time had 2 left. Got a replacement rack fitted for £500, ABS £250, Transfer box seals £300. at the end of the year i just hated the sight of the thing and did not drive it and worst of all i traded it in for a mk3 golf gti and got £4000 for it part exchange. Looking back at it now whoever got it probably got several years of maintenance free driving and i have been following prices of these and seen one sold for 22k.

i have a new Sebring backbox for an early G60 if interested

hello iam interested in fuel rail - how much to belfast thanks

Can anyone give a bit of information on a replacement fuel pump for a corrado g60

the existing pump is a pierburg 4 bar pump - carrying part no 191 919 051bm

called to my helpful main dealer and of course pump is obsolete but he contacted vw

and they say change to a vdo part 1h0919651q and sender 535919673c - all obsolete

vw classic parts says 535919673c - no results - the fuel pump itself i can get ok.

yesterday i had a quick internet look for the pierburg pump and managed to find a company in germany

that had them in stock but today i cannot find it ffs

does any one know where if possible i can get the original pump or the parts to make the VDO unit

thanks

Could i order another 2 sets please

thankyou

thanks for the reply. it got me worried in case I've got something wrong

I am finally reassembling the front suspension to my corrado g60

i have used new old stock to keep it standard

upon fitting the suspension and dropping it as i fitted the top plate and

began torquing it to bentley manual 60 NM the plate sits about 5 - 8mm above the

turret - it has met the the top mounting lock nut (the nut with a split in it)

and so is metal to metal - i can actually turn the top plate by hand clockwise and anti clockwise

with the car on the ground

The top mounts are febi bilstein g60

Thhe front strut are boge 32-a70o - which are listed for g60 (imported from germany)

The suspension has been of the car for some time and i cant remember ever noticing this

with the old set up.

i have just checked it with a mk2 16v golf and the plate sits on top of the turret on it

maybe this is correct i dont know - can anyone put my mind to rest before i continue on

with other things THANKYOU

Looking for a g60 intercooler support bracket

part number 535145689

willing to post to Belfast thanks

just repaired mine

it had corroded where the pin for the central locking for the fuel filler flap passes through

I had no idea what it looked like it was that badly corroded just managed to fabricate a piece of metal

and tack it in position (difficult to mig weld in position) cut out the rot the best I could treated the

surrounding metal and hope to keep it at bay. then filled the area with seam sealer.

Also had to replace the fuel tank bracket at the wheel arch and unfortunately while trying to drill out the

spot welds still managed to drill into the boot through the arch (metal is that thin in this area)

Personally I would put up a wanted ad on here. I would get a used wing get that repaired then swap over and sell old wing.

I live on the other side of the irish sea - will try locally first

thanks for the reply I get a bit confused with the Corrado chassis numbers

so I have a car with late wings but an earlier interior?

just went onto classic parts and found that late wings are no longer available but early wings are?

but got the shock at the cost.

I wonder should I get it off the car and try to get it repaired

I can't see any used ones being rust free - just had a look on eBay

Whilst prepping my car for paint a small area of rust at the base of the front wing has now

developed in to hole and I need a replacement wing

my car is a g60 late 92 (oct)

my chassis number is 50ZNK013089

is this a early or late spec wing that I need ?

Thanks

 

I've posted this here before, but it goes to show the engineering or not in some cases behind filters, they're not all equal

 

Other Frank Massey videos that might be of interest to the insomniacs amongst us

 

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=frank+massey

Very interesting that never seen that link before

When you buy from vw at least all items can be traced back to source and known VW they will tell

you who was on the production line when it was made and what they had for their lunch!!

When buying from third parties you cant help but think they will just buy items on a cost basis

which is important as in any business but can they track to exactly where it came from.

Anyone can copy anything today and in china copyright law is a joke!

Ordered more parts for my long long long corrado resto

Visited a stealer and ordered what I believe are routine spares,

oil filter, fuel filter and other bits (bolts)

Went to collect the parts only to be told oil filter is now obsolete! WTF

Fuel filter is now made in CHINA under a brand SOFIMA!

Earlier this year I bought a Hella oil cooler from Germany and it has been made

in China too!

Cant help but think quality of these items will be suspect.

could I have a set please to do each door thanks

hello all,

just a quick query, over the past couple of evenings I have been reassembling a g60 head

prior to installing the head to the block I reinstalled the camshaft to the head and gave the camshaft

caps a good coating of oil along with the tappets prior to installing the camshaft and torqued all to the manual. I mounted the head to the block and tightened the bolts hand tight only and as it was getting late left all for the following evening.

last evening I torqued all the bolts in the correct order only to find traces of oil at the edges of the new head gasket! The oil must have made its way down overnight

I know the manual says that all surfaces must be clean I assume of all traces of the previous gasket

am I creating trouble here with oil on the surfaces and the gasket and do I need to remove the gasket and bolts and redo again with a new gasket and bolts?

Yeah that engine got broken up. I still have the empty block but my melted piston scored the bore. I might get it rebored at some point.

 

If you can measure your bores and are within tolerance then it should be fine. Aslong as there was no excessive oil consumption. You planning on rebuilding it? The ridge isn't much to worry about if it's in minimal.

Plans are just to get it running again - the car has not run in over a year - took the sump off last night to find it full of gunk!

it looks just like stale oil sludge with a silver/grey effect through it? never seen anything like this before and the crank has a slight rust to the end of it.

thanks for the reply guys

I wish I had done a compression test prior to removal!

the engine did not smell of oil once running but did stink of fuel and even on idle it consumed petrol at an alarming rate!

but I this I believe was due to the faulty lambda wiring causing the engine to run rich (read about this on here before)

the last engine I worked on was a mk2 16v golf which had covered almost 140k and the bores were completely smooth with no ridge at all?

and as you are aware the 16v engine has to be worked hard to perform!

just picked up your thread gti jamo - mine is also a red g60 and looking at your engine block the pistons are black

just as mine is.

sorry forgot to add car has covered only 108k with extensive history both dealer and private

this may be a simple answer but iam new to the g60 engine

I have removed the head from my g60 engine but now I have began to inspect the main block

the car ran poorly due to a faulty lambda (broken wires) and there has been what I would call

a small soot up of the piston tops and the top of the block and on the head the the valve ports.

a quick rub with a scotch cloth quickly removes this but at the top of the block I can feel a small

ridge with my finger on all four bores (about 10 - 15 mm down) but below this I can still see the honing marks?

is this block on its way out and in need of a rebore?

where is the best source of information for the g60 engine or is this forum the best source.

many thanks