science

As long as you abide by the conditions above :-) here's the info,

The back of your unit should look like this;

Power at the bottom, speakers in the middle and at the top....

The iso connector is made if three parts, the one for the multichanger/iPod is this one;

You can install this on its own.

Have got one in grey if that helps...

Cheers, but I forgot to mention its in black.

After the one to the right of the accelerator pedal please!

A couple of years ago I found a place in Leyton that would repair and plug a tyre for £5, but they don't speak English and last time I went its up to a tenner.

Are they the same as exhaust heat shield clips?

Got a close up pic?

I made a mk4 golf handbrake 'fit', i didn't want to cut the outer tunnel cover plastic so it sits at a slight angle when disengaged.

looks like this when down;

And up three clicks;

Let me know if you want the how to...

On my 93 VR6,

What does it do?

That bit I can help with - it's on Bentley page 15.19-15.20. 140±0.1mm from the factory, minimum refacing dimension 139.5mm.

Cheers, thats a great help!

How long are your stem seals? Those look longer than the ones I have from BG automotive, mine are exactly 10mm long.

Try one on a guide (with a squirt of oil to protect the seal) they sit just above the shoulder. Im not sure how high they sit though. I could measure one in a week or two. Or if your urgent try GSF, they are 95p each.

Once the shoulder's machined off, do you just push them all in to the same depth? Was hoping I can get away without doing them, but if it's going to knacker the seals it looks like I'll have to... I'll get a dial indicator on them tomorrow and see how bad the guides are.

 

Stone

Im pretty sure the shouldered guides sit higher than the standard guides by the thickness of the shoulder. I couldn't find a lot of information about this problem except that some people have had problems with the shouldered guides and high lift cams. I don't think it's common with the 263's as they would be more documentation of this problem. Maybe my 263's aren't 263's and have higher lift, It sure does go well :-)

Anyway, I installed my guides at 2.422" or 61.52mm from the top of the head, just about as far as you can, the only downside I can see is that more of the valve guide is in the airflow.

There is a surprising amount of play allowed in the guides, yours may be ok.

If you have the original guides installed can you measure from the top of the head to the 'base' under the valve seal.

Just to see how far out I am.

[quote=Stonejag;974934

When buying OEM replacement valve guides do they have the shoulder too? I'll be using Schimmel 263s. Seems strange that they wouldn't always use shouldered guides and just instruct you to push them out from the valve side, but hey...

My replacement head has never been skimmed before - so when it's done this time it will be factory dimensions again as the corroded areas were built up with weld so only the welded areas need skimming. My skim will be dirt-cheap so I'll see if I can find a cheap place to do the guide reaming and seat machining and leave them if the guides are within tolerance.

Cheers,

Stone

I think they all have the shoulder. My valve stem seals were crushed by schimmel 263's when I had the guides installed at the height the shouldered guides sit. I bought Victor Reinz OEM seals, I think you can get shallower seals but I've never seen them for sale.

The top guide has been crushed by 1.2mm, same as the extra lift on the schimmel's.

So I've now installed the guides as low as possible, I've only tested the engine and haven't put any miles in it, but it seems good so far.

Hello Stone,

 

Yes that is correct the new valve guides should be installed from the cam shaft side of the cylinder head.

I think what the manual means is the old warn guides should be pressed / knocked out through from the valve seat side and out through the cam shaft side so to speak.

I think it might just be the way they've worded it in the manual ?? Like what SCIENCE has said above.

 

I believe you can only replace the valve guides two or three times on the VR6 or on most aluminum cylinder heads,

as there is a greater risk of the head cracking under the 1 tone of pressure used to install the new valve guides,

plus normally the valve seats have to be replaced or machined so as to keep the valves sitting central,

again the valve seats can only be machined so many times,

what I mean is the seat can only be set back in lower to that of the height of the compression chamber.

Basically any machine work done to a cylinder head will weaken it as you are reducing it original dimensions making it thinner.

 

Same issue really when it comes to having the cylinder head skimmed it can only be done a few times,

as it increases the compression this is due to the depth of the compression chamber being reduced each time the head is skimmed,

it's the head of the valves that can also protrude so most people have a slightly thicker head gasket fitted to compensate for this,

but mainly it's down to the fact that the overall thickness of the head face can be come too thin and the issue with the compression chamber.

 

 

But yeah the answer to your question is yes the cylinder head will have to be replaced if it's already been machined to it's max limit.

 

 

Bottom line is really when you've had new valve guides fitted,

should then have the head skimmed and valve seats replaced or machined and have valves lapped in to new valve seat surface.

 

I've heard some people have said you can't or shouldn't machine VR6 valve seats ??

 

£300.00 to £450.00 is what it may cost to have the guides replaced and have the head machined

 

 

Hope this helps.

 

Si :thumbleft:

Yeah, skimming the head won't raise the compression, and although the valves sit proud of the head face, they should protrude by the same amount as you can recut the seats to compensate. You still have about 5.5mm space in the piston chamber before you add the head gasket thickness. This does mean you you have more clearance on the valve stem seals by the amount you skim the head, which helps.

I think you would be lucky to install the guides with 1 ton pressure, and it helps to put them in the freezer for 24hrs before.

There is also a minimum deck height for the head, I think it's about 139mm, it's in the Bentley book although I could never find the height of the factory head.

The original valve guides do not have the shoulder and will press straight out.

All replacement guides have a shoulder to allow ease install to the correct depth. Only problem is that depth is not correct if you install aftermarket cams and the valve seals can be crushed. The shoulder can be machined off if you can set the depth accurately.

I suspect that Bentley are referring to heads which have had the shouldered guides installed, and cannot be reused because they would be pressed out from the wrong side, although I really don't see a problem if your careful with it.

Make sure you use decent guides some are too soft (BGA), I've found Febi to be ok.

out of interest is this the bolt that goes through the pulley? If so, where did you get the replacement from as mines broke.

The pulley bolt is;

Part# N0100873

M18 x 1,5 x 40mm

Still don't know where you can get one yet.

I've got one - just need to dig it out!

Thanks Hassan, but I've just ordered one.

Worth checking the manifold temp plug hasn't been swapped with the black fan controller plug on the thermostat housing.

The manifold temp plug comes out of the loom next to the yellow and blue temp sensors.

Cheers Rory!

Payment sent.

Hi Hassan,

Do you know if these would come with a replacement for bracket, part no. 191 201 654C

Also do you know the thickness of the steel used?

Hi Steve,

Are you still taking orders?

I would like to order one scuttle panel.

Can gift monies asap.

Thanks to Rory and Steve for organising!

Hi, I'm after an early Timing Chain Tension Bolt. Does anyone have a spare new one or know where to get a cheap one?

It has a ball end.

Great! Thanks, I've been looking for these for ages.

G11(blue) and G12(red) will not mix together. G12+(lilac), G12++(lilac) and G13(lilac) will mix with G11 and G12 but its best to give the system a good flush anyway.

You can pickup a 5 Litre premix G13 coolant for £8.50 +Vat from Euro car parts. It's a 50/50 mix so it saves you buying distilled water as well.

I'm after a set of these please.

Cheers mate yeh they look wicked, might just have to be a bolt and some gun gum though because I need it done! They won't come in times cheers though

Yeah, mines a bolt. No gum though, just a copper washer.

Having replaced my hand brake cables today, I can confirm that 1H0 609 721A is the right one to go for. Unfortunately it's obsolete from the dealer but ECP number 108440798 is an apparently equivalent pattern part. It has some plastic bits where the genuine one would have had metal, but at least it won't rust!

Does it have the round ball or cylindrical bar end?

At £2.10 each for Febi guides they're a smidge over £25 from AVS (VW Spares) - link. Very rare that they're not the cheapest and they're all as good as OEM. Good service and fast delivery too!

 

I thought you only had to machine the lip off for 'high lift' cams? I'm rebuilding a head for 263s and now I'm worried I'm going to smash all my valves...

 

Stone

I forgot about AVS, bargain! I'm sure I looked at them when I was planning my build, oh well...

I tried some other guides from BGA that were soft as ****. The Febi ones are ok though.

I crushed my seals when I installed 263 with the valve guides set at the "lip" height. They were 50 thou high for me.[ATTACH]74180[/ATTACH]

Crushed seal at the top of pic.

No probs, would be interesting to see what the change over point and boost levels were.