Robbo149

Hi Steve, this sounds like exactly the same problem I've been having on my VR. I thought I'd tracked it to a knackered MAF sensor, as disconnecting it made little or no difference, as you describe. But I got hold of a couple of s/hand MAFs & tried them (resetting ECU with each one) and these were no different. I then took it for a diagnostic test & this showed a Hall Sensor (camshaft position sensor) fault. I've just got a new one (£32) & will be fitting tomorrow so I'll let you know if this cures the prob. Cheers, Robbo

Mine's loose & sticks out too !!!... yep, top right hand corner... at least Corrados are predictable! Robbo

Ordered a new CPS from the local stealer (shouldn't call 'em that really, my local VW dealer is actually pretty good & the parts guys are really helpful - JCT600 in Wakefield BTW). £32, & hopefully problem solved, I'll let you know. The extra horses would be nice too! Robbo

Yeah Kev, it is a coilpack model. The error report may be different as the garage I used has a Bosch machine which does diagnostics for a variety of manufacturers not just VW, the error code on VAG-COM may use different terminology... Unless it's not the CPS of course!!!... I'm pretty sure it is though, what else could a "Hall Sensor" be? Robbo

The story so far... been having running probs with me VR - stuttering when warm generally not too happy etc., thought I'd tracked it down to a poorly air flow meter, so managed to get hold of a couple of s/hand ones from a local VW specialist to try. Did an ECU reset in between trying them but lo & behold the car drove exactly the same with them all! So next step, took it along to my local heroes who have the full Bosch diagnostic kit for a psychic reading... 1 error - 0203 Hall Sensor open circuit/positive short. I'm assuming this is the cam position sensor (G40)?! Thing is, I can't understand why the car drove exactly the same with or without the MAF connected :? Could it be that with a faulty Hall sensor, the car would be running bad enough for the MAF to make little difference? Corrados... they're grrrrrrreat!

ooops! forgot to add, it also says they do special fitments at no extra cost!

OK, just been on the Azev website & they list various options for Azev A on the VR6 C: 7 1/2 x 17 ET 20, 8 x 17 ET 30, 8 1/2 x 17 ET 13 or even 8 1/2 x 18 ET 30 ! Don't know whether this is all B@%%*x, but I would have thought they would be correct! Cheers all & Merry New Year!

Thanks for the pics Zarman, they do look great on the C. Where does the rubbing occur? & have you used any spacers? Cheers.

It's a definite bang, like something knocking on something else! PhatVR6 - I've just had the wishbone bushes replaced, but haven't checked the engine mounts. Although there doesn't seem to be any excessive engine movement.

My '93 VR has developed an intermittent bang from the front end. It seems to happen when the front end lifts or drops either under hard acceleration or braking. It's just a single bang which can be felt under my feet in the bulkhead area (although the noise could be transferring from elsewhere, I suppose) and it only does it now & again. My local garage has checked all the obvious suspension related stuff & can't find anything amiss! Please help! cheers.

Here are a few I've been trying out for mine... ain't Photoshop great?!! Cheers,

Nice one Kev... you can but try!!! Robbo

Ditto... :(

I've been trying to get a definitive answer to this myself. I think Azev A's are the ultimate corrado wheel! It seems that the problem with A's & the VR is with the front callipers - the dish on the A's means the calipers will catch on the spokes. You could sort this with spacers, but with 17's you could be into arch trouble. I'd like to hear from anyone who's actually put them on a VR & what it entails. Like you, I think it's a lot of coin if they ain't gonna fit! BTW £825 sounds like a decent price - Azevs aint the cheapest! Cheers.

Cheers for the replies. Kev, when you say they stick out too much, do you reckon they would be an mot failure / catch on the arches? (my car's not lowered btw).

I believe they are 28 or 30, whereas the C is down as 32 - 38.

Hi all, been looking at TT competition alloys for my VR (see pic). I know they are a different offset, so what are the implications of fitting on a C ? Presumably the tyres would have to be a 205 or 215/40? Would it be feasible to have the inner faces skimmed to reduce the offset? cheers all.

You are a knowledgeable chap kev, sounds like this knowledge comes from experiencing all the problems of VR ownership first hand!!? Will the newer MAFs fit older VRs? or are the plugs different (as they seemed to be). If they do then it would seem a sensible mod to get the more reliable one. Cheers.

Just a quickie... I was at the local garage who work on my car the other day & they happened to have another Corrado VR6 in (with a blown head gasket :shock: ), so I had a quick shuftie at the MAF sensor on it & it looked different - mine has a square metal block, whereas this one was all black plastic, also the plug looked different to mine. Anyone know if there are different variations of the MAF sensors? perhaps down to age (mine's a '93, the poorly one was a '95).

Fast becoming the dead MAF forum?!!!!!!!! Me thinks this could be a common problem on VRs!!!

Cam sensor & hall sender... are these the same thing? I'm having a Bosch diag test done on Friday, see what that throws up! Basically I'm trying to identify any cheaper possibilities to replace before going for the biggie! (£150 - £200 for a new MAF sensor). I'll let you know how I get on. Cheers for all the replies guys, these problems are never black & white are they! p.s. I've downloaded a list of numeric fault codes for the Motronic 2.9 system if anyone want's to know what any codes mean.

Thanks for the advice Mike. Had the battery disconnected last night (ECU reset) & tried again this morning... There's definitely no difference with the MAS unplugged. Not sure I would describe it as "orrible", it's just bit a spluttery when accelerating after taking my foot off the gas. This being the only VR6 I've driven though, I don't have anything to compare it with. Because it still drives ok generally, does this mean that the ECU is defaulting to the throttle pot & that's doing its job ok? Are there any other tests I can do to narrow the problem down? or do I need to get the fault codes pulled? Cheers again.

Re: previous post about stuttering VR6 when re-applying gas, (thanks for the tips guys, it really does help when someone can point you on the right direction)... Okay, I warmed the engine up, unplugged the MAF plug and the car drove exactly the same! (plugged it back in & the engine cut out). So the MAF sensor is dead, right? Does this mean the only solution is a new one?... anybody got a spare one??? Do I also assume that because the car is still driveable that the throttle pot is OK? Cheers.

Okay, I warmed the engine up, unplugged the MAF plug and the car drove exactly the same! (plugged it back in & the engine cut out). So the MAF sensor is dead, right? :cry: Does this mean the only solution is a new one?... anybody got a spare one??? Do I also assume that because the car is still driveable that the throttle pot is OK? Cheers.

Yeah, it sounds to be coming from the passenger side. I'll check out the CV joint, cheers.