jimmymcq

hi, please help save my storm i do not want to break it. i'm selling my storm as i have 2 other cars and i can't afford or justify putting it back on the road. the car is a mystic blue storm with 125k on the clock the car failed its mot over a year ago and i have been planning on sorting it since then but have not had the time and now have a new baby and have zero time or spare cash. the car failed due to: rusty sill that needs replacing/repairing leaking shock absorber failed emissions (now repaired and passed) coil pack replaced brake imbalance (all parts are fairly new but the car was off road for 12 months so a clean would sort) a suspension bush or two i can't find the fail cert so this is from memory there was an advisory for: coolant leak (thermostat housing as only leaks when hot from that area) an oil leak which i was told was the rocker cover there may have been a few more but the only fail of any concern and the reason the car is off the road is the sill as it required labour and the cost of the sill and i don't weld since being off the road the battery has gone flat but it does start with a jump start and the engine oil pressure light now comes on when its running but there is oil (i believe this is just the oil has slugged up a bit through lack of use) someone with the right skills could put the car back on the road for little cost to them other than a bit of time. i really don't want to break the car down so someone please make me an offer, i honestly would be happier taking less for the car to be fixed than to see it broken down. i know a nice storm can fetch 5k and it wouldn't cost a fraction of that to put the car right. i'll try get some photos sorted soon. any questions please message me oh also the car has an log conversion fitted so runs very cheap but can be removed should you not want it. it was professionally installed at a firm in wales. the car is located in york should you want to see it. Right folkes im making some time to get pics sorted on thursday or friday this week. Ill email the specific pics you have asked for (those that have asked) Update �� Hi folkes Unfortunately i think the bottom end has gone on the engine so it may not be what you are looking for. It still runns but sounds rough. There is a knock in the bottom (thats how it sounds to me. If any if you are technical and interested feel free to make me an offer. If not and you want a donor car or you feel you can make money breaking it again make me an offer. The leather is tidy and worth 500 to 600 theres a spare coil pack the head is fine theres a cd player a spare number plate plinth spare front grill 2 possibly 3 good avons the 4 wheels the lupo wiper conversion straight doors boot subroof etc. Oh and the stag 300 lpg conversion. I cant be arsed to break so give it a shot i can only say no. Thanks for your questions and interest folkes. The car has now sold

Hi I'm after a bit of feedback on an issue I have. I have a 1996 vr6 storm in blue and it has failed it's mot. At the moment I can't afford (the money or time) to mot it (due to my wedding my wife's birthday christmas my the purchase of my new car) and am considering trying to sell it with no mot. The car is tidy and has 126k on the clock. It runs and drives fantastic and has been my daily runner for nearly 3 years. It has been LPG converted so I could afford to keep it on the road (this can easily be removed if not wanted and would just need a new inlet manifold. The fails consist of 1 shocker a power steering leak a rear wheel bearing a front suspension bush and one of the sills needs welding. The above are the fails but I know that the thermostat housing is cracked and leaks when hot £30 fix. There are a couple of advisorys the other rear wheel bearing and the steering column top bearing is slightly worn. I have lots of spares for the car. The question I have is is there a market for the car with no mot and what sort of money should I ask. I reckon mot'd it's worth 2500 easily and the mot I reckon is maybe 300 to 400 to do. If done by someone with time and cash it could be sorted for next to nothing as none of the parts mentioned are hard to get or expensive. Really need your thoughts guys/girls Thanks much

Has anyone out there got a standard number plate plinth for sale. could also do with a set of oem front suspension plates. let me no guys and girls jimmy

Do you have any left. I need a drivers side one?

VR6 | mystic blue | north yorkshire Price: £3000 Description: LPG Converted VW Corrado VR6 STORM in mystic blue. My car is a 1996 (N) with 125k on the clock and is a beautiful runner. I have had the car just over 2 years now and put approx 36 k on the clock. I bought the car when I was doing low mileage then my commute increased a lot so thought I had to sell it on but I was not ready to and decided to have it LPG converted and haven’t looked back. The LPG system is a stag system and has been great over the last 17k. I have bought 2 filters for it and it’s about to have a service on Wednesday but other than that it has saved me a fortune. I generally achieve MPG in the late 20's to mid 30's as I no longer have a long commute and this is fairly local driving and with petrol costing approx 1.45 litre and gas 72.9 litre you can see the savings. I sat and worked it out with the difference in fuel costs and the slightly lower MPG rate on gas I achieve an equivalent of approx 47 MPG and for a car that goes and sounds like DAVE ( I know I named the car but it suits him) it really is mega. In terms of condition the car is tidy and fairly standard. The car has decent service history though not complete. I have had it serviced twice by friends with garages and once myself. It is nearing needing a service now. MOT till Oct 2012 and the road tax runs out at the end of this month (I may re tax it) The car has all of standard spec for a vr6 plus the STORM bits all in working order and really is an awesome car and I truly wish I didn’t have to sell it on. Storm bits: Full heated black leather BBS solitude alloys All storm badging Colour coded front grill Parts fitted: New radiator Front pads and discs Bonnet release cable Knock sensor 4 Tyres Avon’s all with loads of tread magnecor plug leads The mods: I have fitted the lupo GTI wiper conversion (a must) In Pro angel eyes with HID ballasts and bulbs Adjustable Koni's with Eibach springs (lower and firmer) Kenwood CD player wit usb and 3.5mm port Upgraded head light loom (not fitted) I also have the following parts spare MAF sensor (mis diagnosed rough idle) COIL pack (as above) Rear Pads and Discs (bought with fronts but not quite required yet) Oil filter (bought 2 at last service as first one didn’t turn up on time) Front grill not painted (existing grill has previously been repaired and has some light cracks) Old rear Shock absorbers (approx 1 yr old) Front and rear Springs (OEM) OEM plug leads fitted for approx 5k The bad There’s not a lot on this list but there is a bit of rust starting to show due to the cars age Bit of rust on the arches and the sills Stone chips on the bonnet Wheels have previously been refurbed but wasn’t a great job and one I haven’t got round to. One of the parcel shelf rubber lift straps has just broken If you have any questions or want to see the car please contact me on 07595259961 Price now reduced

zak thats brilliant thanks. I'll PM you in a couple of days as this morning i have put a hole in one of my lights and may just replace them with a standard set as there are a few being broken at the minute. Its only a stone chip, though quite a big one so i may just put a blob of silicone in it for now. I'll let you know and get back to you. thanks again james

hi i'm running in pro's with hid ballasts and they are really pretty good on dip but main beam reverts back to the standard set up and the light pattern and brightness are shocking. Is there any benefit in upgrading the loom? will it have an effect on main and dip? oh and when i go onto main beam the hid low beam goes off and when i revert back it has to warm up again so i essentially drive around everywhere on dip beam. hope this makes sense. I'm only running this lay out because i hit a pidgeon at high speed and it destroyed my standard lights and at the time it was actually cheaper to by the above set up. Thanks for your help jimmy

VW are giving me some slavver about not being able to get one. did you get it from a dealer? how much was it? ---------- Post added at 09:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:10 PM ---------- Im going to give VW a kick either tomo or monday. if a new one isnt stupid money ill just buy new but if not i'll give you a shout back. What sort of money you after? Cheers for getting back to me quick.

Hi have you got the bonnet release cable? how much? what state? cheers jimmy

bugger. thanks for letting me know

hi guys please help if you can. I need a bonnet release cable for my VR. The s clip (metal bit) has snapped off of the cable. I have all of the other parts but if any of you have a complete cable i could change out the whole thing. I have tried vw but they are as usual being really helpful telling me they can then cant get the bit and im now waiting for a definite answer from VW but want to put the car back together having done my matrix. thanks jimmy

hi sorry for not reading through all of the pages for an answer but its got quite lengthy this post. do you have the bonnet release cable? what condition? how much? cheers

hi sorry for not reading through all of the pages for an answer but its got quite lengthy this post. do you have the bonnet release cable? what condition? how much? cheers

hi sorry for not reading through all of the pages for an answer but its got quite lengthy this post. do you have the bonnet release cable? what condition? how much? cheers

Hi have you still got the bonnet release cable? what condition? how much? cheers

help guys. Ive been having a bit of a cold start and rough idling issue and i'm thinking its the coil pack. I have removed the pack with a view to maybe trying the epoxy fix and discovered that there is no cover on the pack (covers the buzz bars going from the pin socket to the actual coils) hope that desc makes sense. I'm going to seal the pack with resin anyway and see if it works but wonder if anyone has a broken pack with the cover that i could potentially buy or your thoughts as to wether its required or causing the problem. thanks for any help

help guys. Ive been having a bit of a cold start and rough idling issue and i'm thinking its the coil pack. I have removed the pack with a view to maybe trying the epoxy fix and discovered that there is no cover on the pack (covers the buzz bars going from the pin socket to the actual coils) hope that desc makes sense. I'm going to seal the pack with resin anyway and see if it works but wonder if anyone has a broken pack with the cover that i could potentially buy or your thoughts as to wether its required or causing the problem. thanks for any help james

Does anyone have camber settings etc for this set up also anyone know someone in the york area that can set this up. At the moment the wheels are so bad it looks like my engine must way a good 2 tonne. cheers james

New top mount and all is good. Thanks for the help guys. The other side to do and i'm done till the next job. really appreciated james

Right then back to it tomorrow then. I'll check i was putting the nut the right side of the top mount and see if that helps. i was going to adapt the spring plate as the top mount doesnt sit on it very well but i'll hold off on that front. nowts ever easy is it. your help is appreciated

Cheers much. If i understand that right then the top mount is prob gone as the pic shows the nut (6) sitting on top of the mount but mine more or less passes through it. i'll try tomo just in case i've fitted the nut to the wrong side of the mount. ---------- Post added at 08:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:19 PM ---------- just a thought but the top mount is the original from the old set up and doesnt sit that well on the spring plate. is there a koni specific top mount

the rubber bush i'm refering to is the the heavy duty rubber that goes on top of the spring top plate and sits on the inside of the wheel arch side. I'm prob not being clear but the rubber that sits on top of the shocker and spring set up and goes on the under side of the car starts to push through the hole in the car and lifts the top mounting plate away from the body of the car. I'l try take a picof it to show you.

sure am. Getting them on isn't the issue. it's stopping them pushing the mount out the top when i drop the car onto the floor

i'll sort that pronto cheers