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Bazmcc

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Everything posted by Bazmcc

  1. The question is now: Back seats or no back seats? A friend had one a while back with a brace across the rear struts and it was really tidy.
  2. The only reason I'm doing all that custom work is because I didn't want to waste the frames I had that were for a different car. I got them with the seats and got the lot for about £120. I got a bit of a bargain I think. If you buy the correct frames to start with you could just bolt them in. Only allen keys or spanners needed. if you do need to adjust frame to drop them down a bit just get a mate who has a welder to help out. It's usually not too hard to sort something like that out.
  3. It'll probably be coming in the front and running back. Take the A pillar cover off and check for water coming in the side of the windscreen and running down the pillar to the floor and then running back.
  4. I think it's only a matter of time before newton (i think thats the name) start doing them because they'd sell plenty.
  5. Ok, seats are now fitted. I'm pretty happy with them although i may move them forward a little more just so they have the adjustment range available. I swapped the sprung clip at the front for a nut and bolt just so i can clamp it tight so it doesn't rattle. I painted up all the bits i've worked on.
  6. I would say it depends on the usability of your car. Bear in mind that if you put non reclining bucket seats in that you sacrifice access to the back. Check my install in here. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?74537-How-would-these-aftermarket-seats-look-in-a-corrado I just modded a set of frames I had got and they were going to waste. Same with the seats really, as I had bought them for another car But they fit perfect in the corrado. Obviously it might have been easier to buy frames made for the car. I had aluminium blocks made to adjust the height slightly. It's easily done as most bucket seats have a flat base.
  7. Everything out again to sort out the wire lengths and routing. I will be fitting a couple of tubes around some wiring so it can be cable tied in place. Everything fits i perfectly now. I have a bit of spare wire for the center console sections but I'll tidy them up when i get the airbox sorted and installed too.
  8. Brackets are rounded off and finished a bit better. I still need to blast them and paint them. I got my spacers made from aluminium to lift the seats slightly. I just need to drill these. (yes there are only 6 in the pic but there are 8 in total).
  9. The original door cards would never fit no matter what I did with them. I have them cut to allow the door to close on a test fit but I'll be basically making a fibreglass section to fit where it meets the dash. It'll be no more than about 3-4mm thick though. That's the sort of tollerance I have to work with. It's very tight with the side parts fitted.
  10. Test fit of the newly blasted crossmember and test fit of the wiring. I've found the wiring to the stalks and ignition switch to be a little tight due to the way I have it taped up but i've left a lot of slack in other places so I should be able to shuffle it around to fit pretty well. The pics also show the mk4 fuse box in place.
  11. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?66329-The-MK4-Golf-Bora-Dash-Conversion
  12. Sorry for the lack of updates. Been a bit sidetracked. The wiring job is still ongoing and i'm waiting on the crossmember coming back from blasting. OBD port was done, radio plug done, fuel flap button done, final bits and pieces tidied up. I have a few more things to work out and then I can start making a link loom. This job is going to basically render most of the old fusebox useless. The end goal would be to eliminate it completely. But here is the basic links for the lighting and a couple of other things. I'll update the big lists and spreadsheet of all the connectors and pins next week. The value on the left is coming from the MK4 loom. The value on the right is the wire which would be connected. It would also be removed from the corrado fusebox as that part of the circuit from the original rado dash and switches would be redundant now. Left side light and tail light bulbs -> A1/04 + K/03 Right side light and tail light bulbs -> A2/02 + K/02 Rear Fog bulb -> K/10 Right Indicators -> K/07 + A2/04 Left Indicators -> A1/02 + K/01 Left Main Beam -> A1/06 Right Main Beam -> A2/07 Left Dip Headlight -> A1/01 Right Dip Headlight -> A2/03 No Plate Lights -> K/05 Rear Window Heater -> K/12 Handbrake switch pin 1 -> L/06 Fuel Gauge Sender pin 1 -> M/03 Outside temp sensor pin 1 -> G2/02 Drivers door sensor pin 2 -> possibly G2/07 - needing tested Brake Level Sensor pin 1 -> C/01 Coolant Shortage pin 2 -> C/08
  13. Sorry for the lack of updates on this. Been pretty busy. I threw together the first draft of the front seat brackets. My welder was playing up a bit with the feed but I managed to get it sorted and got a couple of fairly agricultural welds in place. Lets face it, it's structural in this case and they need to be fairly solid. I'll round off the corners and to fix it to the seat rails I'm going to build up some weld, redrill it, and tap it so that the bolts screw in from the back and hold it nice and solid.
  14. I would say you need to take the doorcard off and get the lock mechanism out to have a look at it to see if anything is stuck. WD40 to loosen it up and motorcycle chain silicone spray grease to keep it moving.
  15. I sold a set of BBS RMs for £1100 but to be honest they cost me more than that to build. The price of RS's have been killed by the amount or reps about. I put new bolts all round, had them blasted and professionally painted, and had £600 of radinox stainless steel round the edges of them.
  16. I think everyone has had that problem or similar. Sounds like you're well and truely siezed up. Do you have any way at all of getting the door open?
  17. Problem is i'd need to see them switched on to see where the icons are. I've done a lot of sport clocks, trip computers, cruise control installs etc for people so the clocks and parts have just gathered up. I need to sort them out and sell what I don't need.
  18. The problem is the rarity of the non can FIS clocks I've got there. It's the only set i've ever seen. A couple of mates who work with vws every day said they didn't think they existed. I need to find foils that match the LED and icon pattern of them. I have a few spares so I just need to sort through them and see if anything is the same.
  19. Whayheyy!! found the other bundle of wiring I lost. I'll see if I can get the rest wired up before the weekend. I have an idea about modifying those foils to fit as well if I can't find anything to fit.
  20. ok so all the plans I had of doing work tonight went out the window. Got my clocks back and put them together and tested. LCD is sorted. allsortsuk2009 from ebay - Thanks very much, did a great job. Supplied and fitted the lcd for just over £70. It was something I could have done without but money well spent to get the clocks sorted. One thing I want to do with them is to turn them into the sport clocks. As these are a really rare set of clocks anyway it wasn't going to be straight forward. Here's a few pics why. Have a look at the icon alignment. Sorry but these pics are really crap. I may need to have a dig around and see if I have any cluster foils that'll fit straight in there. If not it's no big deal but would have been nice to have the sport style foils. As long as the clocks are working again I'm happy enough. Original on top and Immo 2 bora sport clocks on the bottom.
  21. I just hope it all works when I'm done. The cluster arrives back today with the LCD repaired. I decided to let the guy who sells the LCDs just solder mine up as I haven't had time to do it lately and my micro soldering tip isn't in great shape so it saves me buying a new one. It might have been an expensive fix but for the rarest set of clocks I've ever seen it's worth it. Tonight I'm going to try and get the illumination and Earth connections all layed out and I'll solder up what I can. I'm going to do a test and see if the MK4 bonnet pull can be used to replace the crap corrado one. It's much better looking and appears to be stronger too. I'll also post up a list of the connections which need to be intergrated to the engine and corrado lighting looms etc. I only have half of this done so far as there are a few more connections to add still. I seem to have misplaced a box full of wiring too, it has my original small rado dash loom and a few extra connectors in it. I'm sure it'll turn up. Hopefully I'll have another update tonight with a few more pics. I'm itching to get my crossmember back as without it, I'm just guessing what the wire lengths should be but I don't have a lot of choice.
  22. If you have any sort of mechanical or very basic fabrication skills you could easily cut the rust out and make a couple of small patches to fit the holes. If you have them really tight and well fitted the welder would just need to weld them in with a mig. I'd say that about 80% of their time would be fiddling about with trying to get the patch to fit perfectly and very little time for actually welding and grinding it down. You could save yourself a lot of money by doing that bit yourself.
  23. Good work mate. Check out my thread on my dash conversion and mk4 airbox install. It might be good to have a flick through for comparisons. http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?66329-The-MK4-Golf-Bora-Dash-Conversion
  24. ok so here we are after a good few hours more put into the wiring mess. I will update the images above with all the new info as soon as I get a chance but for now I'm just trying to get the basics all finished. I only really have the illumination and the earths to wire up and then a load of the wires from the T32 and T32a connectors for the clocks, and a couple of other strays. I have 2 or 3 more connectors to add to the list that I forgot about but they'll be easy to add in. During: And as it sits now.
  25. Black carpet in place. Just waiting for the angle iron for the front mount. Should have had it done already but just haven't got round to it.
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