dogger

Yes. You can email me at [email protected] about one. Thanks! ---------- Post added at 12:47 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:23 AM ---------- Pics of the carbon fiber rear plate holder. I'll have more pics later including the gloss black fiberglass version

Thank you! ---------- Post added at 04:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:39 AM ---------- Plate holder mold is finished and making the first part this weekend. I'll post pics of that part next week.

The factory spoilers the middle holes are oblong allowing for more adjustment. Unfortunately we can't match that shape sorry. Its great to hear you guys are happy with the parts. The carbon fiber rear plate holder should begin production next week. I'll post pictures as soon as I get the first part. It will also be available in a gloss black fiberglass version. We are also working on carbon fiber strut caps and a badgeless G60 grill. I'm still trying to get a hold of the 3 plastic lower windshield trim pieces to make a one piece version. Hopefully that will happen next month.

Your welcome! Thank you for your patience and business. :D ---------- Post added at 07:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:45 AM ---------- I will start building the prototype for the mold for the G60 badgeless grill soon. Hopefully it will be in production in mid May and it will sell for $95US. I'll post information on preorder group buy on these soon along with the carbon fiber rear plate holder.

A plate holder with the key hole will happen for sure. For those who want one without I would need 5 prepaid orders to get that version to happen. I have one person already plus eddy.h. Hopefully we can get enough interest for make that version too.

Sorry for only sending two painted ones. I had planned to send them all unpainted but last minute had to send those two. I posted a few weeks ago about making a carbon fiber rear plate holder for the Euro plate. I have it ready to begin the mold/tooling process. There has been interest in a version without the keyhole but that would require a separate mold since I can't make one with and one without from the same mold without sacrificing the quality of the keyhole version. So I wanted to see what the interest is in these parts. Thanks! James

There are two of the 70mm front spoilers that I sent painted. Sorry I didn't paint them all but I wasn't sure if everyone would want them painted or not. Mikki there are two that are wrapped in paper. Sorry forgot to mention this to you prior. They are painted. There are instructions for all of the products for paint. I'm looking forward to everyone getting the parts and hopefully everyone is pleased with them. I really appreciate Mikki for handling this and for everyone's patience with the group buy. Thank you!

I'm still waiting to get the OE RHD pieces from my contact in the UK so I can make the mold.

Mikki tracked the shipment over the weekend and said it was with customs. She expected to hear from them shortly. She said she would post once you picked up the package and let everyone know what the duty fees will be. Hopefully she posts soon. I have one of the prototype carbon fiber rear spoilers for sale. Its a nice part but has a few minor flaws in it. The one cool thing is this will be the only version in existence since we made some changes to the mold after this one unique wing was made from that mold. The price is $350US. Here is the for sale thread on the Vortex. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5221781-FS-Carbon-Fiber-Extended-Rear-Wing ---------- Post added at 10:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:59 PM ---------- Here are some pics of the first lower windshield trim in fiberglass that sells for $94GBP plus shipping. I still don't know if there will be a carbon fiber version. Hopefully I will know by the end of the week.

The part we are making replaces the 3 plastic trim pieces at the base of the windscreen and is one smooth part. For certain it will come in gloss black fiberglass and hopefully be available in carbon fiber as well. We are finishing the mold right now for the LHD version and I'm waiting to receive the parts from the UK for a RHD version. I'll keep updating as things progress. Thanks! ---------- Post added at 06:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:14 AM ---------- I'm picking up a OE Euro plate holder tomorrow to use for making the mold. Hopefully we will get started on it next week. The rear wings(spoilers) are in full production now and taking orders for both fiberglass and carbon fiber. I don't have any plans to do large CF parts like fenders or hoods right now. There is interest here for a G60 CF hood but its not something that will happen anytime soon. One part planned are carbon fiber strut tower caps. I had a meeting today about this and design work will begin this next week.

There is a bit of interest here in the US for a G60 badgeless front grill like what Bonrath and a few other companies made before. Our version would be in rigid urethane rather than ABS which would make it a lot less prone to breaking tabs/supports like the OE ABS grills do. It would also withstand small impacts without breaking. Hoping the price can be around $50GBP.

Shipped today. Sorry for the delay everyone. There was a last minute addition to the package and it delayed the shipping. I'll have Mikki post once she receives the package. Thank you again.

Everything is packed and ready to ship. I just need to get Mikki's shipping information and I'll drop everything off at the post office.

I wasn't talking to you, junkie, in my last post. Just clarifying some of what you and the OP have been discussing. I didn't check the specs on that amp before posting earlier but once I saw them I was trying to clarify the power output as it truly is. Which is not enough for the sub being used. And not going to be a +3db gain. The Slash 500/1 is good or even the XD600/1. The G4500 for components would mean you need speakers that have a high power rating. If you get a good set of components with that amp and subwoofer, it will be loud and clean. I agree for the G4500 the 10W3 would have been perfect. It would have saved you some money too and its a great sounding subwoofer. W6 is nice but needs power to do so. As far as a box is concerned use at least 3/4" MDF and build it as tight as possible. I would suggest a sealed box over ported. I've built several different set ups in Corrados and subwoofer boxes up against the back seat with the speaker firing rearward towards the hatch sounded best. If you can mount the box to the car well it helps even more. Having multiple amps in a Corrado is fun for installation since there aren't good places to install them. With one amp you can at least mount it on your speaker box.

I'm going to see if we can do both from the same mold. I will know this week.

I'm not sure where I am wrong. Sorry I forgot the lower series of JL amps have unregulated power supplies. Still the output of the amp does not double in power when going from 8 ohm load to a 4 ohm load. In order to gain a 3db increase in output you would need to double the wattage of the amp. The G4500 is rated at 160W RMS at 8 ohms and 250W RMS at 4 ohms. Far from double and far from +3db. The G4500 accepts a 4 gauge and is the minimum recommended gauge wire specified by JL. Running a larger gauge wire and reducing it anywhere along the chain would defeat the purpose of using larger gauge wire directly to that amp. To the Op that amp is not a good fit for a JL 10W6. For one the 10W6 is a dual 4 ohm speaker and that amp can only do 4 ohms bridged. So you would have to run it at 8 ohms with a dual 4 ohm subwoofer and your power output at that impedance is going to be 160 watts at best if your alternator ever put out 14.4 volts. Most likely the amp will see 13.5 volts so you will have even less power. You bought a great subwoofer but it needs a higher output amp. You really need around 500 watts to get your monies worth out of that speaker.

I found a Euro license plate holder local to me that I can use to make the mold. This coming week I hope we can start on making the mold. Keep this updated.

If in fact you were increasing the audible output by 3db that would be huge and very noticeable. But you aren't. If you are using a amplifier like a JL, you won't increase output, wattage, by lowering the impedance on the amp. You only need to keep the impedance within the safe range that JL rates it. Which is 1.5-4 ohms. The Slash series are the same as the HD and output remains the same no matter what the impedance is. Rams, you should use the proper fuse at the battery recommended by the amplifier manufacturer. Why would you need a splitter to step down the power wire to your amplifier? What amp are you using?

I have the front spoilers and rear spoiler here ready to ship. Just waiting for a last minute order for a carbon fiber rear spoiler to be finished so I can pack everything up and shipped.

If you are using a JL amplifier the impedance of the speaker/voice coils won't increase or decrease the power output. It will produce the same amount of power within its safe impedance range on its specs. Dual voice coils won't double the output. The main reason for dual voice coils has to do with more flexibility with wiring up subwoofers to that amp. Check the specs on the JL HD amps. Notice the power output of the amp is the same even when the impedance drops. Alpine PDX amps are like this too. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=482 To understand dual voice coil speakers this will help as well. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=163 If you look at JL's site and look at the power handling range for their subwoofers. You want a speaker that safely handles 500 watts than find a speaker in the size you want that does. A 10W6 or 12W6 would be perfect but they may not fit your budget as well.

With switches for newer style interior. Inside of the pocket lined in suede.

Thank you!

What did they do to the wiring on the harness? Does the radio turn on/off with the key still? Does it hold the radio presets in memory? Something doesn't look right. Here is a good write up on battery drain testing. http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/Batteries/BatteryDrain.html

I wouldn't even bother with rear speakers unless you have passengers in the back often or you even care if they have sound back there. I would spend the money on good speakers for the dash and doors. If you aren't going to use a amplifier than you need speakers that are efficient and don't require much power. Pay attention to the nominal power rating on the speakers you buy. As far as speakers go a lot depends on your budget. Hertz are nice. Also Focal. Alpine makes decent speakers that don't cost that much. Most component speakers require a amplifier so you should stick with coaxial speakers.