VW_OwneR_85

99.9 mpg mine reads hehe, im happy at that ;)

dont know much about exahaust sizeing but i do know as above, it effects performance and bigger isnt allways better, my vr6 came with a crappy exahuast with a stupid subaru style 4" drian pipe back box, running wise i didnt know any better as i had never driven a vr before that,i brought a new miltek exhaust system and blady hell! was the best £400 i had spent on the car! felt alot quicker! and the throttle response was so crisp!!! it realy was like driveing a different car, so make sure you get it right bud

i have them on my mk2 golf, 9" on the rear and 8" on the front, they came with the car but i like them and tbh i would buy a set if needed,quality wise they do look good even the bolts can be removed for painting and im guessing the coloured split rim bolts would bolt straight in, my car aint a show car so the closest people are ever going to view my car is passing by or in photos or maybe parked up if there lucky so theres no way in hell that i could ever justify spending £1000+ on a set of shiney wheels for someone to look at,

putting the badges back would be a mission if everything was welded up?, i saw awhile back on custom my ride they debaged a car but they painted the badges back on with the spray job with proper stencils and airbrush , looked prety damn good tbh, i can see this working quite well if done right especily with the silver and red for VR6 badge,

ET= offset, the number determines how far in or out the wheel sticks in/out, the lower the number the more it sticks out, for example an 8x16 wheel with an ET of 30 will be very close to being flush with the edge of the arch , but an 8x16 wheel with an ET of 20 will stick out past the arch , this number is crucial to getting your wheels sitting right in relation to the arch lip, also VR6'S have a wider axle track so the ET for these will be slightly different to that of the 4cylinders , just google images "wheel offset" im sure your find a cut away wheel diagram showing offset,

on a vr6 up front with 16x9 ET 10 with no arch mods it sticks out about 2"s so im gona say unless its et 38 -40 it wont have a chance in fitting, also would of thought 9's up front would make it steer like crap, even just 9's on the rear makes the car drive a little funky, best go 8 up front and 9 on the rear ,9" et 20 would be the best for looks , i had et 15 on rear and imo stuck out a little to far, 20 would be perfect,

realy like the colour of that corrado!, OP get a second hand bumper to work on { there cheap enough} and sand the paint off to bare plastic around the reccess and then plastic weld a filler peice {with soldering iron or what ever } in with plastic from another bumper or suitable plastic from some where a few mm below the surface and then key the plastic up good then skim with plastic filler { upol's SMC for example } for a flush finish, finishing up with a good finishing filler for small holes, could also use adhesives if you dont fancy plastic welding , its exactly the same thing as smoothing out the fogs n indicators then fill and prep the rest of the bumper then prime>colour>clear

yea i can imagine must of taken ages probably cost 4 figures , looks so blady nice though,some one said awhile back that its made out of metal!

ah damn! that is prety nifty!! i may have to jump on that!! just stumbled across this also love this smoothed spoiler!

smoothed mirrors? got any pics?

haha yea i see what you mean about the shopping list for paint . gas strut for the bonnet! deffo gona get me some of that! i like the idea of the hidden fuel cap behind the rear light, you could have the light on a hinged bracket with a popper so it swings out when you press the button for the selonoid , what i thought once was maybe turn the VW badge into a filler flap itself, like you twist the badge and it opens it or something descret like that but its alot of custom work to do and get right without looking like a diy job if i was doing anything fuel cap related it would be the audi TT fuel cap but idd have the cap anodised black so its abit more subtle, this thread needs body mod pics, {hint hint}

iv already done smooth front bumper,audi a6 door handles, aerial smoothed, de badged rear and front grill, trying to get some ideas for other things , i realy should smooth the rear wiper hole out as its just bunged up at, just want ideas for other things that havent crossed my mind yet, im toying with the idea of smoothing the roof gutters out, just want a body mod to do for the winter as the cars now off the roads and tucked away in ma shed and i actualy kinda like bodywork, feel free to add pics if anyones had stuff done ...

yea rear tow eye delete ! im likeing that!! small thing but would actualy make it look abit more modern from the rear,

right if you could have any subtle body mod done to your rado money not an issue what would it be? Audi door handles ?, TT fuel filler cap?, de badged? smoothed roof trim? roof chop haha? lets hear it

if you dont know the last time it was replaced i would, easy enough to do especialy with the coolant being drained for the aux pump anyway, just make sure the replacemant has a metal impellar and not plastic ,

good news m8 glad its not to bad for you

yea thats exactly what i would of thought, its like you selling me your vin plate for my car! , either way i wouldnt even buy it for £1 as it means nothing to me ,idd have it for free though as i like free stuff,

not helpful but your car looks amazing as it is! why on earth do you want it lower?

if your gona do it stay away from the edges! as the paint is at its thinest there , make sure its absolutley as clean as possible before you start! just think what would happen if there was abit of grit or something swirling around on the buff pad! not nice! , do small sections at a time so you dont end up biteing off more then you can chew!, keep the pad flat to the surface! btw i dont want to put you off but if you buff through the clearcoat it will need re doing! , my friend did this on his bonnet , he was just buffing away on the curve thinking about that nice glossy look that hes about to get , THEN BAMM! he hits primer! he wasnt happy. no need to buy into these expensive polishing kits for something you aint going to use everyday , i use a cheap variable speed angle grinder/polisher {£30 jobby} but i use the 3m sponges, its also made its money back as a grinder

the glue residue left behind is a bugger to remove, industrial tar and glue remover makes easy work of it though, also heat up the area with a hair dryer or heatgun and it should peel off alot easier,

by the looks of it your takeing on alot of work! im going to be impressed if this thread is still going next year and the car isnt broken off, i wish you the best of luck! the door seals arent hard to fit but if you havnt seen them fitted before i guess you might struggle,maybe have a look at another corrado?

thinking about welding my sunroof up as i hate sun roofs and mine leaks slightly even tho it shouldnt , anyone here done it ? or had it done? does the metal sunroof match perfect to the rest of the roof if aligned right? looks like it would but cant tell,

kk then that area should be treated and finished the same way as the paint work on the rest of the car apart from you add the stonechip paint from a shutz gun via air compressor to give the rough orange peel texture before your primer or after your primer {see instructions on application of it } so forget underseal , the rough texture is a stonechip finish , basicly realy bad orange peel! then apply your basecoat {colour } and then your clear coat, tbh if you give it time and use the right products you can get it looking good enough, here , you need to spray it on to match best you can the rest of the orange peel/stone chip finish http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1L-GREY-STONE-CHIP-UPOL-GRAVITEX-STONE-CHIP-HS-U-POL-UNDER-BODY-STONE-CHIP-GREY-/180983418868?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item2a2373cff4 use that horizontal line as a mask line and an edge to work to,

yea avoid bending it at all costs, they have a metal strip down the inside and once its bent its blady hard to get straight, might help if you had the window out and pushed the seal in the middle up and inwards towards the car interior if ya get me?, that might help free it from the sealing lip in the window channel.

not entirely sure where you mean, is it visible when you look at the side of the car? if it was under and not visible i would grind/sand back the split underseal to the good stuff makeing sure all rust has been ground out , then 2k epoxy prime {see link} mix it up in a paint mixing cup and brush it on, then apply a few coats shutz underseal or any underseal to finish it off, check out the properties for epoxy primer http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360455123441?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 even if it is on a visible panel idd still grind it back and wack epoxy on it better then leaving it , or worse breaking it like a cry baby. cars are still driveable with primer patchs