G60ING

You are best off getting a head from the USA that has been P&P on a flow bench because the stock G60 PG heads are the same. Now if you could get your hands on a Group N cheater head then the shipping might be worth it. I can't wait until I can get mine as the ports are much bigger but have the stock cast look top them :wink: The best people/companys that I know of for VWs are: Forrester Bill Schimel Techtonics when Colin worked there I now think Colin does P&P either on his own or for some retailer that is in EC.

Hope you aren't turned off by me posting links from the Vortex. but here are a few: G60 motor mounts: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=678915 http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=660995 http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=613280 http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=606667 http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=560658 http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=309720 http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=146496 http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=698103 BTW I've bought the Vibra-tec and have not yet been able to test them out

that is one color that is very very rare here in the usa. I think it only came on a few in 1991 and most of those were automatics:( Looks great:)

Trust me I'll be taking pics. here is what the fuel and speedo will be transferred to:

Hello. Which Vibra-tec front mount did you install? The Competition? How are the Vibrations?

HMmm match anyone!!LOL Never had any problems but then again I don't smoke

from my whole 2 times that I've been to the track is that lower than 27psi in fronts and my times suffered. But then again I've only been to track on 2 occasions

I agree that sunset pic is great!!! Hey what tire pressures were you running? I like to air my 205/45/16s down to 27psi and air the rear up to 42 psi for drag racing. I don't know what the temps were but the winter temps can make it difficult on traction but nice for boost and that is very bad combination. I also likes the pics of the parking lot with all the cars. It was interesting too see the variety of cars you have other there :)

I want to know if this Oettinger car is still around. I think its the 20V prototype car http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sra ... 663188.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sra ... 663180.jpg How can add pics that are already online without having them run out of my reply box??????

I was wondering if anybody could post me to some good G60 (Golf,Rallye,Polo{G40},Corrado) sites, a syncro Jetta site would be nice too. I like the techicnical sites the most. English speaking is always helpful but not required. Thanks

Oh I know how things can get a little out of control on ebay as I've sold a lot of corrado parts on ebay before and my wife sells a lot of corrado models and teddy bears on ebay too but that gauge panal went for a LOT.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... egory=9889 I was just wondering bacuse in the USA we can buy out LHD cubby hole gauge panals for $30 from Neuspeed or the VW dealer. Are these RHD panals no longer available from the dealer?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... gory=14771 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... egory=9889

I'm running a 260 cam and when I ran a 68mm I used to see 20psi but that was with my flowed charger and a larger crank pulley 18 with a stock 1990 crank pulley. Before with a stock G60 charger and a 68mm with a stock 1990 crank pulley I used to see 16psi. Now these numbers are at 6500rpms(ie right at the rev limiter :shock: ) But I have the ISV rerouted so that the hose no longer runs into the boost return pipe but rather into the boost pipe feeding the throttle body. This puts equal pressure on both sides of the ISV and does not allow any pressure to bleed off. This so that the ISV will not bleed boost above .8bar. How do I know that the ISV bleeds boost, well this video tells me so: http://www.redrado.net/GCharger.wmv At: 3min 45sec into the video the ISV bleed off is mentioned.

My suggestion is a little involved if you want to completly remove the smell. 1st have the head liner recovered. This is where all the smoke ends up and you can never clean this enough. In the USA if you take the header liner to a shop after removing it they will only charge $50 or so. 2nd if you can have a professional carpet cleaner steam clean the interior as this helps lift all the crud out of the seats and carpet. 3rd if you don't want to do step 2 then buy a foaming auto carpet cleaner and use this in conjunction with scrubbing and a shop vac. The main thing is to lift all of the dirt and odors. I usually am able to get the interior much cleaner when I take the seats out of the car. I only do this once a year so that I can get ALL of the dirt and it makes it much easier to clean. happy cleaning

I have to agree. thanks for the extra pics. I love pics of things that I'm not used to seeing very often :D

Might just want to bleed the clutch fluid. But if you haven't done this in a long time the new fluid could cause your master od slave cylinder to fail suddenly because the old crappy fluid was all that old seals could hold back

Great I'll take it. check your email. Thanks :D

Yes :) Now there is one of the most unique thoughts I've heard on the matter of a new Corrado :D

:lol:

The USA does not get much of a selection in cars or engines but I have seen 2 cars recently that were imported and I was wondering if somebody could give me infor on what HP engine was in these cars. 1st new looking Polo with the dual round headlights. This car had a TDI badge with the DI being RED. What model polo is it and what engine? 2nd a Mk4 Jetta Wagon with the BORA badge and red DI on the TDI badge. Does this car have the 150HP TDI engine? I know this car was imported because I've seen the car a few times and once tried to talk to the owner while in traffic and he knew nothing about cars and had a military uniform on from another country. If you know what HP these TDI engines are I'd love to know. thanks, Frank

That is BlackieVR6 from http://forums.vwvortex.com/

I'd have to say that I'd be checking for leaks in the hose connections at every location that you worked on. and if that doesn't do it then I'd be inspecting the calipers for leaks. Rebuilding the front calipers is VERY easy.

you could but after 12years you car's suspension is very tired so you won't see the performance gain you desire and shortly down the road you might want to install new shocks and struts. after you install the springs you should get an alignment and if you do the front struts down th road you will have to pay for the alignment again plus all of the labor for installing the pieces so you are basically paying for the same labor twice. Why not just hold off on installing the springs until you can afford the shocks and struts too. A job worth doing is worth doing right the first time

well I can't use an air box on my charger so I use K&N filters only.