G60ING

I have installed a few of the Lysholm screw chargers and yes they are not as straight forward as often described. The biggest items of issue are the oil return lines. Granted the kit has changed since I did my first install it is still not as direct swap and I think it should be. If you want feel free to visit my photo album I have started since first installing it on my friend's car http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictu ... 4292252267

I've always been able to reuse the factory plastic membrane. Just make certain the goo that holds it down is warm and it lifts right up. Even on the few I've ripped while working in haste haven't had any water problems But then again we(east coast USA) might not get as much rain as you (GB)

yeah I know there are a few companys that are able to tune the G60 but I've reached the pointy where I don't want to deal with chips anymore. A lot of VW people over here end up running SDS so there are a lot of people that know how to use it and they all say its very easy to tune. Some never even visit aDyno (r.roar) to tune it but I will just because I always go the extra distance to try and get things done right. Plus if I ever want to build another G60 vehical I will have a good harness and ECU for an off the shelf stage 4 and below setup

I'm not a 100% knowledgable about apexi I believe its basically a piggie back to the stock ecu and basically just controls the fueling. But I've never heard of anybody installing it into a G60 digifaant system. I don't feel like wasting the money on it to find out it won't work and besides I want to have control over my timing and fueling curves. Plus with standalone I will be able ditch the distributor and run coil packs. :D I should apologize about my attitude yesterday when I posted as I was not in the mood for a F&F comment if you get to know me you will see that my car is not flashy but is modified a good amount under the hood

Watch out he's been watching 'Fast and the Furious' again :wink: I see the wink but that comment is not even close. I have tried just about every chip tuner available in the USA and I'm fed up with all of them. My car is not on the normal scale of mods. I have taken my car down to Atlanta to have SNS try to build me a chip and I left there refusing to let them near my car. I had a friend go to autothority to have them custom map a chip to his car and they wasted 1 week with his car and ended up just buying him an off the shelf BBM chip(does work too well with his larger injectors) So I'm going to buy SDS and tune it myself on a dyno

its not like that. I haven't even talked with Jet about the brakes as the prices are a little high in my opinion plus they are on the other side of the water and shipping would painful. Plus its not the right time for me to be buying parts. I'm trying to save my money for a standalone fuel management system. Jet if you are interested in some parts from the USA let me know maybe we can work something out ;)

too bad you guys are not closer because I happen to have a spare shifter box from my car. If somebody could talk G60Jet into selling me the 944T calipers cheap I'd supply it at no cost :)

mine has been sitting right at 70-80 for the past 1000 miles

Hey there. I just got my car running after buying a lot of driveline parts. I install a 100% rebuilt tranny with longer 1,2 and 5 gears also vibra-tech MM, lightened flywheel, and the list goes on. But I also installed a 100% new MK3 Vr6 short shifter with new cables. and I love it. I replaced the shifter that inserts into the tranny with a VR6 unit too. The shifts are much more positive feeling and New shift cables will always improve a car's shifting. The only possible down side to the Mk3 shifter box is that its pivot point sit 1.5" higher and this causes the shift knob to be higher. But I actually like this as I'm somewhat tall at 6'3" and have the seat set back. Now the knob falls nicely into my hand where as before it was a small stretch. I removed the Cat and the heat shields on the bottom of my car to install the new shifter. While doing this I cleaned both heat shields and it makes the bottom side of the car look much cleaner. Also on my friends car we plan to install a Mk4 shift box, cables and shift tower(part that inserts into the tranny) Then he can go with the Mk4 SS kits and have the better cable design(better for adjustments). The 02J and 02A trannys are 90% identical inside and it will work

He is correct I have seen this in the VW tech videos and the VW corrado training manual. When I ran a stock charger, 68mm pulley and Neuspeed chip I saw 16psi but that was at the revlimiter. I called Aaron Neuman when i didn't see the 16psi after installing the gauge and he said that the 16psi was at the revlimiter.

I know its an old topic but I hit 14psi whenever I Blip the throttle. 62mm pulley with a larger crank pulley combined with very short IC pipes and a ported charger. I hit 14psi at 2000 rpms

whistles should be thought of as Boost leaks. The Idles screw is very common to blow out. It goes in the back of the TB(towards the firewall) and when it blows out you often look back there and see a nipple that is about 3/8" in diameter and think where the hell is the hose that goes on that. well the idle screw goes inside it. But then all of those cloth covered vacume lines tend to wear out. There are 3 vacume lines that go to the TB. 2 on the back side of the TB (firewall side) the one leads to the ECU and has to be 1 meter long make certain this one is perfect. The other small one can just be trimmed and reattached. Then there is the 3rd vacume line on the TB. Its located right under the inlet to the TB and its the largest of the vacume lines. This one can be trimmed an reattached. If all of these are good then you should look at all of your boost pipes and connections. Another thing it could be is a tired charger. I determined my charger was tired when I elminated all possible boost leaks and still did not have my normal boost numbers (get a boost gauge) I tore apart the charger and found an apex strip was worn very thing. much longer and I would have torn up the displacer

I've got the Vibra-tec mounts in my car and I have only 2 slow miles on them and I wasn't fully impressed as they have a good amount of vibrations when at idle. But I've been told that the vibrations go away at speed so I'm hoping they were right. I didn't have the G60 installed when I tested the setup so I can't fully comprehend what they were like. I will say this they were expensive

hey there. I helped a friend install the Turn2 full polly setup into his VR6 corrado and they seem to be a very good upgrade for his car. we installed them on the front and rear motor mounts and then installed the G60 tranny mount (what turn2 and pottermans http://www.parts4vw.com calls an upgrade for the Mk3 VR and Corrado VR6) We have not yet been able to run the car with them but I think he'll like the performance as his old mounts has 170K miles on them. His motor is currently at the machine shop and it might end up 3.1L :mad:

I would suggest you have it serviced/refilled and use an ultraviolet die in the oil so you can find the leak after you use it. wait a minute if its shutting off after it already works then its an over pressurizing problem. Either way I'd try to find somebody that knows a/c systems well and maybe even the shop that installed it way back when if you have the info.

I believe they are different. Niko has posted pics to show the differences too but that was on the vortex and I'm unable to load Niels pics on this computer for some reason so you might want to do the searching yourself here is the link: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerosearch?creator=niels search Intake manifold in the archives and in the Corrado Classifieds and then you should find some pics of stock 2.8 and the 2.9 intakes and then the VSR

you will need the VR6 top plate at least that is what I expeianced

The wife told me we are about 2-3weeks out from getting in schabaks. but unfortunatly we are not expecting Yellow. But we've been surprised before

If you think its the ignition switch and not the lock cylinder when you take the steering colume apart try using a flat screwdriver to turn the ignition switch and if it starts everytime you attempt to do this then its the lock cylinder

I'll let you know if I get any. Maybe we should wait for the schabak order to arrive before we finalize the shipment. I'll check with the wife and see when the schabaks are expected.

I've had yellow Schabak's before and I'm currently awaiting a large order of schabak models as it will probably be the last batch of Corrado models that they make as they are phasing out the car production in favor of the airplanes :cry:

for shear bolts just take a dremel and cut a slot in them and use a flat screwdriver on them

I just want to see the selection of factory radios you had. I'm most interested in the ones with the activ radio system (amps in the door speakers) If you don't have pics or don't sill have the factory one tell me if it was originally: am/fm/ am/fm/cass am/fm/cass/cd changer am/fm/cd am/fm/cd/cdchanger

I have had this problem and what is happening is the ignition lock cylinder is wearing out. The lock cylinder has to turn the ignition switch to start the car. But the end of the lock cylinder will develop some sloppiness and if you start to have the problem turn the angle at which you hold the key. almost angle the key to the 1 Oclock position. But what you really have to do is replave the Lock cylinder and then you will have to carry 2 keys around or rekey the doors and hatch. If you don't believe me next time this happens take a jumper wire from the Positive terminal on the battery and jump it down to the 10gauge positive wire connection on the starter with the key in on position inside the car (dash lights on position) This will power the starter solienoid and start the car. Thus proving the lock cylinder is worn out. When this 1st happened to me I was 1000miles from home after having rebuilt a car I bought 3 weeks before. So I had already installed a new starter. I ended up using a jumper wire every time I wanted to start the car if I was not on a steep enough incline to allow for pop starting the car. There is also a way to buy a new clock cylinder and graft on the new style nub that turns the ignition switch but it requires a dremel and lots of patience but it allows you to keep the original keying and the feel of the hybrid lock cylinder is very nice. The old original nub is different then the newer nubs on the replacment lock cylinders. I know it all sounds very odd but if get your hands dirty you'll see what I'm talking about. The new lock cylinders cost about $30 here in the usa so probably about 10-15 pounds there?

The hole is not punched out but the impression is there