G60ING

I've been building this object that tries to stretch the day so I can do more work in a 24 period and still get some sleep. Sadly the device is a failure and I have to just stretch myself thin.

If the bar does not have three points of contact then its not the best for performance. If you want a compromise so the storage area is still useable then a 2 point bar is ok but almost a waste. I have a neuspeed bar like this that I have yet to install because I haven't had time but it is the best for track results:

typically its not the hp that breaks the parts btw there is no additional strength with VR gears. They are the same quality as the G60 gears. The only differeance is the ratios. What breaks the gears is the torque. This is why 500whp Hondas do not have much of a problem with their transmissions. Hondas typically have really high hp but are weak in the torque department. Also it depends upon how you drive. If you easy into the power you will not break as many parts. If you dragrace hard you will see lots of unusual failures. typically you will break a Diff first so you should upgrade with a peliquin or Quaife Then come motor mounts. I upgraded to Vibra technics comp. mounts Then you begin breaking CV joints. There are a few levels to chose from here and the first thing to is start by having spare axles and CVs from a stock car. Here in the USA we can get rebuilt axles with CVs for $50 but they don't hold up well because the CVs have been machined and this causes them to lose their hardness. the best cheap alternative is to get NEW OEM CV replacements as this is often what many axle manufactures offer as an upgrade and charge you $500+, The next step is to get a set of stage 3 axles which are fully custom axles and often require other modifications to the output flanges or whatnot. Then you will see motor mount brackets cracking/breaking After you see all of the above failures you typically will have gear failures. Somewhere allong the line you will need a better clutch. Typically 300whp will not cause gear failures in a 02A or 02J and the order that I posted the failures can often change if your parts are already weakend from neglect. After having installed a quaife, Vibra tech motor mounts and a VR6 clutch I am not too worried about major failures in a 220whp G60 Corrado that will run a 14.4 1/4 mile. BUT I do take to the track a spare set of $50 axles and motormount brackets.

Sorry for the confusion

Could be a bad motor mount or it could be a broken front motormount bracket. If it is a mount do yourself a favor and replace all of them because if one it bad then the others have had to pick up the slack and are probably on their last legs. Replacing all three typically makes the mounts last longer. Do it before you put the engine through the hood. Are you sure its not a bad syncro and the gears are grinding?

You have 4 options for 5th gear: .756 .717 .70 .68 I would recomend the .756 or .717

Swapping to a non-abs setup is not easy. You need to replumb the brake lines to the rear, install a proportioning valve, get a Brake booster, Master cylinder, reservoir, Brackets, and then install all of it. Can it be done? yes but its not easy.

Not a simple part:

Thats a good price. I'll have to swing by the ford dealer and take my chances. Thanks

How much are they from the Ford Dealer? Have a part number? Techtonics sells them for $9 USD. I bought mine a while ago for $7.

there are some rubber hangers available with Chain inside them. These will never fail on you again. I bought my from http://www.techtonicstuning.com

I've gone down this road before. Here are a few topics on the Vortex that I've put together: 02a/O2A Gearing/Gear ratios, $Prices$, and other helpful hints: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=642917 tearing an 02A/O2A tranny down to its sub assemblies: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=767717 My 1st impressions of 02A/O2A CDM gearing in my G60 Corrado transmission: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=798125 Please note my comments in that last thread about the 1.8L and 2L strokes. FYI there is a MK4 1.8T transmission with gearing nearly identical to what you want to build. Why not get a low milage unit and just drop in a a quaife or peliquin?

I've swapped in a few Vr6 clutches into G60s and the pressure plate has a greater clamping force then the G60 setup. I typically use a sachs clutch but there are few others that are of OEM quality too. In the USA a good clutch can be had for $150-$175

Does your car have ABS? If so then the job is very expensive. If not then the parts are not bad at all.

:?: :?:

the fuse boxes are the same on all corrados. The wires change on some of the corrados but for the most part they are all the same with minor differences. as for the engine swap you can do it as a plug and play but it requires the use of 3-4 different engine harnesses to do this. I think futrell motorsports has laided this out on the vortex but I'm not certain. I do know its possible because a local friend did this with a MK# 1.8T swap. Personally IO would just use stand alone and save the hassel and get more power. Or you could use the donar car's wiring and have a separate fuse panel from the donar car. Pick up a bentley manual for the corrado and the donar car and your life will become much simpler

if you were using a different rim i'd suggest you use this website but you aren't but you may find it helpful for future changes: http://www.bmwcsregistry.org/Technical/ ... atives.htm I think you have pleanty of room for an extra 15mm with your wheel and tire combo

I had to take the part number and punch it in to my part supplier's http://www.worldimpex.com website ito find out what we were talking about. In the USA we refer to these top mounts as the strut mounts. The stock G60 ones are garbage and wearout very quickly. I installed a set of the later ones used in the VR6 cars and most of the mk3 cars and they wear used for 10K miles before I got them in 1998 and I've not had any issues with them since then. by far one of the better upgrades a person can do. Make certain you get the bearings and plates with the rubber part.

The rubbing probably has more to do with the offset of your rims then the PS rack. I know my tires rub the innside of the wheelwell when I do a U-Turn but this is only at full lock. I run a 205/45/16 tire with a 7.5" rim with a 35et offset. If I ran a ET of 30-25 the tire would sit out further and not rub the inside of the wheelwell but it might rub the lip on the fender.

Does anybody have any insight on this transmission? Does anybody know of a good website that I should be asking for the information?

If your PS is not working all the time its probably the belt tension. there are 3 bolts on a g60 that you need to adjust to adjust the tension. 2-13mm bolts that hold the PS pump in place from the backside of the pump. the upper one is hidden by the aluminum bracket under the waterpump and thermostat flange. I find it easiest to get this bolt with a shallow socket and a 6" extension with a wobbler end. then there is the tensioner bolt that you back out or tighten to the propper tension. you need to be VERY carefull on how tight you make this. If you over tighten the belt you will wear out the bearings in the waterpump or even the PS pump and then have to replace them when they start to make horrible noises. typically I try to keep the belt just loose enough that it may on occasion slip when water is splashed on it and then tighten it a 1/2 turn more so that it will not do this again. This experiance is from my 11 years of g60 ownership and 10 corrado g60s that I've owned.

I'm in the usa and just saw a couple 16V ABF motors and transmissions on a pallet at a friend's shop. Would anybody happen to have any details on the transmission? The tranny code was "CDA" it looked like a sycro's 02C style tranny but with no rear drive output? Is the differential better then a Corrado's 02a style tranny? any idea on the what the gearing is? Any info is appreciated.

The Golf if it is not a G60 will not work as the pully is made for V belt like used on the PS and water pump. yes all Corrados in the USA had very few options. I think the options besides color was leather, heated seats, ABS on G60s as VR6 it was mandatory, and sunroofs which only a few came without. All other options were standard

The clutch set up dead. it looks like the pulley is at an angle. Here in the USA every G60 has A/C from the factory. I like A?C on days when when its above 85 degrees F and high humidity whic is everyday in the summer. I have seen pulley failures like this before but it is somewhat rare. I would suggest trying to get another used or used a/c Compressor. The biggest problem I have with getting a good used a/c compressor is that the lines are steel and the compressor's threads are al and the steel lines are often corroded onto the al housing and will shread the threads of the compressor when removed. My suggestion is that you do not throw this pump away as they are rebuildable. If you can find one with bad threads for the a/c lines you can take the rear assembly from your and swap it onto the other compressor. Just make certain you get a new gasket for the compressor from the VW dealer. Also I have found that its some times easiest to keep the engine assembled and to just remove the bumper, grill, core support, radiator and a/c condensor to access the a/c Compressor. Or you can remove the front cross member which hold the front motor mount

The gear box is VR6 specific as the bell housing is shpped differently. I have Vr6 Corrado gearing in my G60 and it made for a longer 1st and 2nd gear I have a TDI 5th gear so I can run small pulleys and not tear up the charger on the long drives