vw_john

i have this same problem, i have found on mine that if i reseat a relay they all work again for a period of time. havent got my c with me at the moment so cant say which one but try testing your relays.

Well It was last done in 2004, a reconditioned one was put in, don't know why the old wasn't rebuilt... and since then it's done 25,000 miles. I just want to know what whill happen all round, power, torque, mpg, acceleration that sort of thing. its really oily underneath and it has oil in the boost pipe before the throttle body. i have it booked in at jabba saturday, for a stage 4, may aswell get it ported while there. and on the drive in one they fit belts and some pipes too? cheers for the responses guys

It has a stainless steel exhaust decat. 68mm pulley, and is pretty oily underneath and has a fair amount of oil in the boost outlet... please don't reply telling me its broken because I will be very upset haha. I have done the boost test on the onboard computer and got a reading of 1900 which it thinks is about 12.4 PSI, not sure how reliable that is though. cheers

Right, i bridged the plug from the rad got the two speeds out of that, so the fans working... however when i bridged the black temp sensor nothing happened, shouldnt the last fan stage come on then? also where is the aux water pump? i cant hear any whirring when the car is turned off. all wires are intact as far as i can see. im stumped! ---------- Post added at 05:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:50 PM ---------- how can you tell if the aux water pump isnt working and would this stop the car from running the rad fan?

well from what I can see, stainless decat whole system. pulley, 70mm i think and a chip to go with, g-werks stuff the receipt only says chip and pulley and i dont think its small enough to be 68. but 160bhp at the flywheel? it was pushing 140 at the wheels. and thats valver territory.

Looking though the paperwork for my G60 and there is a dyno readout of 160bhp (at the fly) done by stealth. and this was after the charger rebuild, i have since put new rotor, dizzy cap, ht leads, plugs, air filter. And I cant seem to see where i am down on power! there are no boost leaks that I can see or feel.

Because the rad wont kick in. its a 91 g60 its all worked up until recently, have changed the bolt in temp switch in the rad. any other ideas?

subframe failed! luckily I was doing 10mph so nothing happened other than the huge embarrassment of it happening in front of what I'm sure was the whole of my town haha! well I don't know what I'm going to do about it. However, if they charge me for collection I will kick up a fuss! Don't know the extent of the damage the mechanics aren't looking at it till Monday, although the drive shaft came out and gearbox oil didn't, which is bad?

hi! is it tornado red? or dont you know. my sisters boyfriend lives in bristol so it might be possible!

That probably makes no sense, but since having this (a month now) it's been nothing but trouble! Driving to my garage today, which I was told I could do, by said garage to get the subframe replaced. and what happens? BANG the thing f*cking breaks leaving me stranded. (I jacked it up to have a looksee and try and unbury the wheel from the arch) (what I found underneath!) Of course that pulled the driveshaft out of the gearbox, so im looking at hefty garage bills already. and to top all of that fun off! The garage sent out a flatbed, from which the driver decided to pull my car down the road first before getting it on the flatbed, completely :2gunfire: my wing. which was in all honesty probably the best part of my car =[. oh yeah and he shredded a brand new tyre. all in all best 40 minuites of my life i think. Off to drown my sorrows. BYE BYE!!

So my front subframe completely shattered today dragging my wheel into my wing, not much damage. along comes Hick tow truck driver. pulls the car for about 50 football pitches into the already damaged wing, so now it looks like a crinkled mess, brilliant.

just taking the bump strips off the door, get to drivers door, take it off, so much filler everywhere, such a bad job can anyone help?

Just to bring this thread back. finally got hold of the MOT station that did the car. and they said if anythings been fiberglassed they cannot remove it, so if the fiberglass is covering all the dodgy areas, its still a pass... seems rather unsafe.

...f*ckery. Is this just going to happen or is there anyway of me anticipating this? got a mind to turn it back down...

well, when the subframe been fitted I'll give it a blast and bring this thread up. how would the engine get damaged from running lean? and the multimeter I used was apparently an expensive one. although surely measuring resistance it wouldn't matter which way it goes round because its going to resist either way?

checked a few times, there's only one setting for ohms on my multimeter, dad knows a thing or too about that sort of thing and it was definitely at 31, from 1 to 3 and 3 to 1, don't know if there's a difference swapping it over but I tried it anyway. maybe someone in the past had a problem with starting, tried that and forgot to turn it back? didn't you say that it only uses it for idle and any driving uses the lambda?

Right to get back to you on that. i was at 31! i have turned it up to 500. the car still starts, can't see any difference. suppose thats good. the idle is smoother though, I think. would 31 be really bad?

Right, so its for measuring air mass then? I did think that was a good result, but then again that is only from the readout on the dash so it could be wrong. I just think its running rich because i have a black buildup in by back box, even if i clean it out, after about 15 minutes driving there is already residue in there! so I take the plug out and measure the resistance across pin 1&2 when its idling or off? and while measuring tweak the screw till i get between 500-600 ohms? cheers

you my friend know alot! i'll have to have a smash at that and get back to you!

hmm, its at 125k and on a long run im getting 38mpg or 35 on an average run. unfortunatley its a 91' so i presume i cant do that check? i'll see if i can get my mechanic to do it for free when i get my subframe put on ;] haha. cheers for all your help guys

Right, thought it might be something along those lines, could it be used if your car was running rich? because mine is and i have tried everything else, wouldn't put it past the previous owner to have tinkled with it. I'd love to, just need to source one, I didn't get any spare parts with my car, that crappy wolfrace one is probably sucking in the sahara and it hasn't even got a heat shield! Yeah it looks like that too me as well, how would I check, I have ran my hand around it while its running and cant feel any air. thanks Owen. ---------- Post added at 07:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:36 PM ---------- Thanks for the info Redfox!

something to do with airflow? anyway there is an adjustable screw inside what does it do? ---------- Post added at 06:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:27 PM ---------- also is there anything that looks out of place in my bay? its an old picture and has been cleaned since! oh and the piping for the CC has been removed

...more work for the rado then. Think I might try not to breath when the cars cold. thanks for your quick responses though! I might get round to doing it this week as shes not going anywhere for other reasons.

I have an early C, and the direction slider for where the air is directed doesn't go to either end it will move freely in the middle but never reach far right or far left. which is annoying cause i need to demist the front screen! cheers

Have you tried cleaning the ISV? don't know where it is in a 16v engine but im sure you could find out on the forum somewhere.