petemcr

These for the VR6? I'm interested but I may need to wait till next month so I'll check back and see if you've still got them, I'm fairly close in Congleton as well so I'll collect if they haven't done.

Going to try this today if I get chance or weekend, I was under the impression the control module for the Windows and CL was the one located behind the rear seat, I didn't know the CL had its own control module built into the pump. What did you use to supply the 12v current?

That was also the other reason which put me off, the relocating of everything on to the opposite side, not a huge amount of work but still... and if the Porsche engine lets you retain everything where it should be all the better. I always figured the 2.8 24v (baby 32) might have been a good choice, just given the kind of car they would come off might be less likely to have been trashed all its life, I believe they were called the old mans R32, can only imagine most R32's and Audi 3.2's have been driven hard all their lives now.

I spoke to Vince at Stealth about the R32 conversion and that was his take as well, few years back you could get a relatively young engine that didn't need any work doing, but now with the age of them and how much parts cost, he said it isn't as worthwhile a conversion any more. I've noticed a lot of people are using the Porsche engine though out of the Cayenne which I believe is the same engine as the R32, just further developed by Porsche.

I'd not noticed, I never knew it ran again or even noticed, wonder if it could be the pump. The actuator on the petrol filler cap works with the key but I don't believe that uses vacuum as it sounds more electrical and I don't hear the pump at all. To add to this, I also had a RightCLICK C/L unit fitted which was plug and play, so it sat between the factory loom and the pump, I'd imagine it sends a signal to the pump the c/l has been triggered to cause it to lock, but I removed that when the CL started playing up, I then re-fitted it once it started working again and it was all working fine, then... stopped again, but I can hear the RightCLICK unit clicking when I press the key, just no pump noise.

I gave this a go while everything was working, Locked the door latch with a screw driver, kept trying the CL while messing with the concertina, no change, everything was working fine, did the same on the boot and passengers door, still no change. It started raining a little here for about an hour, went back out and it had packed in again, so no more central locking and the fuel filler cap is back to unlocking when the car is locked and locked when the car is unlocked, Something is defo a miss with the wiring and water ingress is causing it but I can not for the life of me find where it is.

I'll give it a try today, I take it then while I'm trying to operate the central locking it's a case of seeing if it stops working when I press the concertina to check if there is a split in there somewhere?

So the central locking has suddenly started to work as of today, out of the blue, with nothing being done. Then after I drove it, it stopped again, drop it back home and sure enough, working again, so I'm a little confused as to what is happening with it.

I've not actually checked, I figured it was something like the unit with it being the same on board side, the only thing which appears to work is the full closure now, I'll have a check and see if any wires are broken, be a relief if it was that.

Hi everyone, Hope you are all well, I've used the search on here but the issue I have at the minute is a little unique and is sort of the last piece of the puzzle to getting my Corrado back working correctly. The issue is, since I've owned the car I've always had issues with the central locking, looks like the previous owner had messed with the wires inside the drivers door which I've tried to put right, a few had been snipped. So the solid red to the actuator had been snipped and left dangling, and the set of wires to the door handle weren't in the best condition. I managed to get a replacement plug and re-terminated the plug going to the door handle, since doing so I now have full closure again, if I hold the door in the lock position the sunroof closes which never worked, so I think the micro switch in the handle is Okay. This is now where it gets weird, I have lost my electric windows, sunroof is fine but neither side work, and if I lock the door on the drivers side it doesn't do any of the locks... BAR the petrol filler, that locks when the car is unlocked and visa versa, but I hear nothing from the pump itself or the relays in the rear seats. I do have a spare comfort control module that I have yet to try but I hear it click on when I reconnect the battery, but then nothing after. Checked the fuses, I believe there is one situation above the normal fuses which is for Central Locking/Windows and it's fine, same with the relay next to it. Does any of the gurus on here have the tests I can try with a multimeter to determine where this might be going wrong, I can live without the central locking but it would be nice to have it back, but I really would love windows again in summer.

Not sure if the ISV is used straight away or if it goes off once fast idle goes off but I just started it with the pipe off that had the valve opening behind and there was no movement from it, which I guess means it's definitely had its day

Good to know the eBay ones aren't worth getting, I was debating them but at least they're known to be no good, back to the drawing board. Will need to test the one that's on now but I'm pretty sure its no good, replaced it with a used one a while back and it's been stood for some time

Will this show it's working correctly? I thought they could still stick even if they can open fully

Think they were the ones I was debating getting if it does turn out to be the ISV, worth a shot I reckon

Awesome, life saver How much do you want fella?

Might be a long shot but does anyone have a VR6 ISV that they know works knocking around they would be willing to sell. I am looking at getting a new one at some stage but I just want to test the ISV is failing at this position my before I shell out for a new one, or if anyone knows a good way to test the current one, I have VAG Com and I'm sure there's a way to manually open the ISV using it but can't remember where the option is Cheers

Hey everyone, Just a quick one, having finally sorted my idle issues out and issues with bucking which I am happy about, I have noticed a water leak coming from my water pump (which is great). I've got the replacement pump from GSF, was £30 with the metal fins but currently have a code for 60% off if anyone needs anything, code is GSF60, got it down to a nice £14 or so. My question is, I know I need to remove the front mount bolt and rear, I was reading you need to also loose the gearbox mount as well, but what's the best way to lock the pulley in place to release the bolts holding it in place? Anyone got any tips before I go and get this swapped out, can't be having it loosing coolant with what seems to be a bad winter on the way. Cheers if anyone does have any tips/advice.

That’s what I thought, but I didn’t know if the ecu was detecting it running lean and tried to rich up the mixture. But, she has improved, I took the lower intake off and sure enough the end bolt had stripped out, so I put a new thread in and replaced the bolt so it’s tight on now and also cleaned up the surface as there was old gasket residue on it, new gasket on and sealed it back up, alternator has also been replaced so I took her for a drive, she’s a lot better now, no cutting out, no miss fire round the 1k range, mpg is up from 16mpg to around 26mpg and doesn’t smell rich now, which is a lot better. Just had one occasion where she bucked hard, mrs thought I was doing it on purpose and stared chuckling as I tried to get back driving So a lot better, only thing now is high rpm, not like before just idles at 1k now, but sits at 700rpm on a cold start and rises as the engine heats up, going with the blue temp sensor at a guess

Sorry to rehash this but I've just noticed something while I was replacing the alternator. I was going round trying to nip up the intake manifold bolts and noticed, the very far right bolt towards the battery has stripped out, I've taken it out and the bolt is fine so it looks like it's the lower inlet. I just wanted to run it by everyone but I'm sure this is where my air leak is going to be coming from, the idle is better but it still sits high, am I right in thinking this will be causing it to idle high and also run rich? I'm debating taking it off and either replacing it, or having the garage up the road run a new thread into it with a slightly bolt just to hold it tight for now until I can find a replacement

I've had a look this morning to see if I can spot any air leaks and notice 3 pipes kissing any kind of clips. I don't think it has ever had these so I'm not sure if it needs then so if anyone could let me know. First one is from the ISV to the inlet manifold, this is the one that comes off the silencer and goes to the top of the inlet just below the throttle body, that's just a normal pipe pushed on, all the others have clips on them to clamp them down. The other two are on the pipe from the rocker cover to the inlet boot, seems like it it has a sensor on it from the boot side. also the small pipe from the fpr to the inlet was damaged bit I've already replaced that one. Could anyone let me know if this is right or which I am missing, or even better if anyone has a pic. I drove it last night to get it to temp, seemed a lot better, it's no longer hunting but the idle is still massively high, around 1500k or a little below, helps to stop it stalling but I know it's not right, it uses to sit around 800 or so previously. Thanks everyone for the advice

That was the issue mine had not long ago, in low revs it sputtered like it was struggling, then suddenly surged and shot off, also stalled when the revs dropped a couple of times. it's funny the alternator being mentioned as I've suspected mine was on its last legs, the car has been stood for a fair amount of time and it's on my repair list, just the idle was taking priority as it was charging, I didn't know it could effect the idle. Changing the MAF seems to have helped having taken it for a quick spin out, I've had a look and a fair few of the breather pipes look to be missing clips, I'll take a pic but I was sure they didn't have any on them originally.

Cheers fella, well just to add to this, the new MAF came today. So I've replaced it and left the battery off for 15 minutes to clear any stored values, started it and sure enough it was still doing it. So I took it up the road to the garage to let them listen and he had said thr same, to check for air leaks, so on the way back I gave it a quick tickle down the road... The idle had now settled, it's still sitting a little high but it's no longer showing any errors with the MAf or O2, it did show a code for 00533 - idle adaption I think it was, not scanned it since though Go figure, need to take it for a long drive and see if she's still bucking and struggling. Thanks again for the info though 😀

Hey guys, I know this has probably been done to death and I've used the search tool, from what I can guess it's a MAF issue, I have VAGCOM'd the car, as it's OBD1 all I'm getting Is an error with the MAF and the O2 sensor. I suspect the O2 sensor might be due to the MAF being incorrect, am I going down the right route. I've managed to get a MAF which is on its way but this is what I'm seeing at the moment. I've so far cleaned the MAF, reset the ECU, cleaned the ISV with carb cleaner and used electrical contact cleaner on the MAF plug. Anyone seen this before or got some ideas what might be causing, it was only doing it when the engine was up to temp

That is very tempting tbh for the price, would be nice to just bolt on all my ancillaries and then fit it. You happy with it then?

Hey guys, hope everyone is alright. I've got a few questions for the people in here who know the VR6 engines well. So I took my Corrado off the road some time ago and I thought it would never run again, well with the help of Phil on here I managed to get an engine and sure enough, she lives again. So loads of work has been completed on the car now that she can move and she's back in good shape again bar the age old issue of rust around the wind screen. So, as I don't know the history of the current engine that well, and the fact I still have my old head sat in storage I think I am going to build up another engine and replace everything I can, with plans to eventually swap them over, but before getting too in to I thought I would ask the bits that have been bothering me. Bottom end, from what I have read, the 2.8 was a better engine in terms of longevity as the cylinder walls are thicker, and also the power wasn't made with the slightly larger displacement, it was Cams and intake which helped get the extra power, is that true? Am I best sticking with the 2.8, or would it be best to get the 2.8 and have it bored out (I believe Vince at Stealth knows someone who will do this) As for the head, having watched videos of the Humble Mechanics strip down of the VR6, he mentions about marking the bearing caps so you know which cylinder they have come off, over the years of storage and not being marked I have no idea any more which bank they are for, but I was thinking of putting in some high lift cams, if I do go down the cam route will it matter as much with the bearing caps as they won't be worn in with the cam as they've been replaced, or are the caps still available to buy. Also, lifters, any one suggest which lifters to use as replacements, I noticed there's a few around that are still available. Also the chain tension bolt, as my engine runs on a dizzy and the replacement was using coil packs, I've had to remove the cam position sensor and fit the arm for the dizzy on to the cams, this has worked fine, but it does mean I have to use the old style tension bolt and the block runs on Simplex chains, is this going to apply to much pressure and cause then to fail prematurely? Or is this a mammoth task that I am thinking of taking on and do I stick with the block that is in, it runs perfectly it just has the problem of noisy tappets and I have no idea when the chains were done. I know a lot of this has more than likely been covered before, I would just very much like to keep my Corrado as part of the ones that is still on the road and in good condition :)