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petemcr

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Everything posted by petemcr

  1. That’s what I thought, but I didn’t know if the ecu was detecting it running lean and tried to rich up the mixture. But, she has improved, I took the lower intake off and sure enough the end bolt had stripped out, so I put a new thread in and replaced the bolt so it’s tight on now and also cleaned up the surface as there was old gasket residue on it, new gasket on and sealed it back up, alternator has also been replaced so I took her for a drive, she’s a lot better now, no cutting out, no miss fire round the 1k range, mpg is up from 16mpg to around 26mpg and doesn’t smell rich now, which is a lot better. Just had one occasion where she bucked hard, mrs thought I was doing it on purpose and stared chuckling as I tried to get back driving So a lot better, only thing now is high rpm, not like before just idles at 1k now, but sits at 700rpm on a cold start and rises as the engine heats up, going with the blue temp sensor at a guess
  2. Sorry to rehash this but I've just noticed something while I was replacing the alternator. I was going round trying to nip up the intake manifold bolts and noticed, the very far right bolt towards the battery has stripped out, I've taken it out and the bolt is fine so it looks like it's the lower inlet. I just wanted to run it by everyone but I'm sure this is where my air leak is going to be coming from, the idle is better but it still sits high, am I right in thinking this will be causing it to idle high and also run rich? I'm debating taking it off and either replacing it, or having the garage up the road run a new thread into it with a slightly bolt just to hold it tight for now until I can find a replacement
  3. I've had a look this morning to see if I can spot any air leaks and notice 3 pipes kissing any kind of clips. I don't think it has ever had these so I'm not sure if it needs then so if anyone could let me know. First one is from the ISV to the inlet manifold, this is the one that comes off the silencer and goes to the top of the inlet just below the throttle body, that's just a normal pipe pushed on, all the others have clips on them to clamp them down. The other two are on the pipe from the rocker cover to the inlet boot, seems like it it has a sensor on it from the boot side. also the small pipe from the fpr to the inlet was damaged bit I've already replaced that one. Could anyone let me know if this is right or which I am missing, or even better if anyone has a pic. I drove it last night to get it to temp, seemed a lot better, it's no longer hunting but the idle is still massively high, around 1500k or a little below, helps to stop it stalling but I know it's not right, it uses to sit around 800 or so previously. Thanks everyone for the advice
  4. That was the issue mine had not long ago, in low revs it sputtered like it was struggling, then suddenly surged and shot off, also stalled when the revs dropped a couple of times. it's funny the alternator being mentioned as I've suspected mine was on its last legs, the car has been stood for a fair amount of time and it's on my repair list, just the idle was taking priority as it was charging, I didn't know it could effect the idle. Changing the MAF seems to have helped having taken it for a quick spin out, I've had a look and a fair few of the breather pipes look to be missing clips, I'll take a pic but I was sure they didn't have any on them originally.
  5. Cheers fella, well just to add to this, the new MAF came today. So I've replaced it and left the battery off for 15 minutes to clear any stored values, started it and sure enough it was still doing it. So I took it up the road to the garage to let them listen and he had said thr same, to check for air leaks, so on the way back I gave it a quick tickle down the road... The idle had now settled, it's still sitting a little high but it's no longer showing any errors with the MAf or O2, it did show a code for 00533 - idle adaption I think it was, not scanned it since though Go figure, need to take it for a long drive and see if she's still bucking and struggling. Thanks again for the info though 😀
  6. Hey guys, I know this has probably been done to death and I've used the search tool, from what I can guess it's a MAF issue, I have VAGCOM'd the car, as it's OBD1 all I'm getting Is an error with the MAF and the O2 sensor. I suspect the O2 sensor might be due to the MAF being incorrect, am I going down the right route. I've managed to get a MAF which is on its way but this is what I'm seeing at the moment. I've so far cleaned the MAF, reset the ECU, cleaned the ISV with carb cleaner and used electrical contact cleaner on the MAF plug. Anyone seen this before or got some ideas what might be causing, it was only doing it when the engine was up to temp
  7. That is very tempting tbh for the price, would be nice to just bolt on all my ancillaries and then fit it. You happy with it then?
  8. Hey guys, hope everyone is alright. I've got a few questions for the people in here who know the VR6 engines well. So I took my Corrado off the road some time ago and I thought it would never run again, well with the help of Phil on here I managed to get an engine and sure enough, she lives again. So loads of work has been completed on the car now that she can move and she's back in good shape again bar the age old issue of rust around the wind screen. So, as I don't know the history of the current engine that well, and the fact I still have my old head sat in storage I think I am going to build up another engine and replace everything I can, with plans to eventually swap them over, but before getting too in to I thought I would ask the bits that have been bothering me. Bottom end, from what I have read, the 2.8 was a better engine in terms of longevity as the cylinder walls are thicker, and also the power wasn't made with the slightly larger displacement, it was Cams and intake which helped get the extra power, is that true? Am I best sticking with the 2.8, or would it be best to get the 2.8 and have it bored out (I believe Vince at Stealth knows someone who will do this) As for the head, having watched videos of the Humble Mechanics strip down of the VR6, he mentions about marking the bearing caps so you know which cylinder they have come off, over the years of storage and not being marked I have no idea any more which bank they are for, but I was thinking of putting in some high lift cams, if I do go down the cam route will it matter as much with the bearing caps as they won't be worn in with the cam as they've been replaced, or are the caps still available to buy. Also, lifters, any one suggest which lifters to use as replacements, I noticed there's a few around that are still available. Also the chain tension bolt, as my engine runs on a dizzy and the replacement was using coil packs, I've had to remove the cam position sensor and fit the arm for the dizzy on to the cams, this has worked fine, but it does mean I have to use the old style tension bolt and the block runs on Simplex chains, is this going to apply to much pressure and cause then to fail prematurely? Or is this a mammoth task that I am thinking of taking on and do I stick with the block that is in, it runs perfectly it just has the problem of noisy tappets and I have no idea when the chains were done. I know a lot of this has more than likely been covered before, I would just very much like to keep my Corrado as part of the ones that is still on the road and in good condition :)
  9. It does indeed, just ordered one now so I can get it sorted. Thanks 👍
  10. Have you got the bonnet release cable trumpet at all?
  11. Hey guys, In need of a bonnet cable trumpet, willing to pay if anyone has one around, this is the one with the locking nut. Big help if someone has one Thanks
  12. Interested fella, as long as it is in better condition than my current, given how bad this is shouldn't be too hard. I've just got a new set of the legs so I'm alright there, it's just the front section I need. How much do you want for it?
  13. Hey guys, I was in the process of replacing my bumper irons that bolt up to the subframe, when I decided to take a look at what it was like under the bumper itself, a fair few of the bumper clips were damaged and only a couple looked to be holding it on but then I found the front bumper irons is a mess with rust. What options do I have with the bumper clips and also the iron itself bar getting one from classic be parts in Germany and being stung on shipping Any advice appreciated, even better if anyone has the bumper iron they are selling
  14. Would you take £275 for them?

  15. Hey fella Interested in them, not sure how much they would go for though, how much realistically are you looking for them?
  16. Hey guys, I know this has been done to death but I'm having a struggle here finding one, seems VW heritage no longer have any in stock and no plans to get any and getting them from germany costs way more than it's worth. I've used the search on here but I wanted to see, does anyone know of a way of getting around this, something that would work in its place... or even better if anyone has one around in their spares they would be willing to part with. This is the passengers side which also has the fastener on the end. Cheers
  17. I like them odds, 60% of the time it works every time. Want to PM me some payment details and I will get it sent over to you, can fix my bonnet issues then :) Cheers
  18. Hi fella, What's the chances of you still having any of these available? Thanks
  19. Thanks guys, worked a treat. Managed to get it out now and get the new headlamp in, so that's great but the cars not on the road at the moment so I can source something to replace it. Take it you use a Stainless screw instead to avoid them rusting in place in the future? I've replace all the slam panel bolts now with stainless bolts to avoid them rusting in the future.
  20. Hey, Sorry yeah, should have really said which one, but you're right it's the one at the back of the head lamp. The slam panel is off the car at the moment which makes it a little easier, I just didn't want to ruin the fixing as I have a replacement headlight I would like to put back in. I'll give it a go with the clamp though and see if I can remove it, it looked a bit of a mess though last time I check. Cheers
  21. Anyone got any tips or tricks on how to remove a rather rusty retaining screw for the headlights, need to swap out my headlamp but the head on the screw is completely rusted and not the easiest to access to put the dremel on to it. I was going to drill it out but thought I would ask see if anyone has more than likely come across this before. Cheers
  22. Hi buddy, Just wanted to see if you had a couple of bits. Front indicators Drivers side electric window switch bonnet cable You'd be a hero if you had any of the parts still and prices
  23. Hi buddy, Turned up, fitted, I now have working windows and a sunroof that can close off the switch instead of just opening, so thank you very much :thumbleft::thumbleft:
  24. Hey buddy, just sent the money over now fella
  25. Hi fella, I'll take the electric window module off you, is PayPal alright to send the money? Thanks
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