P3rks

Bloody Hell! Have they used it as a football!? Other than the looms, each part was individually wrapped with bubble wrap and the box was padded with loads of packing paper scrunched up. Fingers crossed. Any issues let me know and I'll raise it with UPS. Sooner the better please. I have it fully covered either way. Rich

DO ITTTTT!! I'm listening to sensible offers :)

To be fair, I didn't think my OBD1 was bad, at all. Idle fluctuated slightly and was a tad lumpy at times (and it sometimes dropped when puilling up to lights, making it stall from time to time). But all part of the charm and charactersitic of the engine. I remember some chap walking up my drive one day whilst working on it where he was saying he had one from new and the idle was never right and always frustrated him. I digress. I became converted when I bought a late Golf VR6 to break and I drove it home. The engine behaved completley different and was everything the engine should be. I was saving this conversion as I've always said I'd get another VR and OBD2 is a must have, now I've had one I couldn't go back kind of thing. I suppose it's one of those, if you don't know any different you won't miss it. But realistally will I ever have another VR6? Not for the foreseeable future, so might as well let someone else enjoy it. Try and get hold of a OBD2 VR6 for a test, you'll be a convert. :)

More Power and torque lower down and remain through the rev range, better efficiency/MPG, smoother engine, much better idle and response, reliability and availability of spare parts. To name a few. Best thing I did to my VR6. The engine went from being a bit of a dinosaur with a rough idle, the odd cutting out at lights, random misfires, you know; just the general/normal VR6 running issues/behavior. It became a smooth powerhouse, very modern in it's behaviour without loosing any of that VR6 charm. Idle became perfect and it never cut out, started first time every time, MPG improved noticeably, driveability increased with more low down torque for day to day use and the list goes on. For those that don't know. VW updated the ECU/Management systems on their model range mid-1995, including the VR6 engine. However the Corrado never received this because the model was being phased out. The Golf VR6 got the update though. The update mainly included an updated ECU and loom (more efficient and responsive mapping - e.g the intake runners on the VR6 are unequal length, OBD2 accounts for this), the idle control valve was removed and replaced with a stepper motor within the throttle body, MAF design changed (later MAF, easy to find new and much much cheaper than the Correado VR6 type). OBD2 Golfs quoted the same power in the brochure but are known a higher output when on a rolling road. Basically all those annoying characteristics and running issues you deal with on the VR6 engine are fixed. The drive goes from feeling like a rough old engine ready to cut out at any time to a modern, smooth machine.

How about this: IMG_2215 by Rich Perkins, on Flickr Or are you talking about this: IMG_2219 by Rich Perkins, on Flickr IMG_2220 by Rich Perkins, on Flickr Both have surface rust, but very solid and will clean up very nicley with a blast and powdercoat. Especially the carrier/under piece which normally rots through, to be fiar I've not seen one this solid in years!

Thats an extra £60 a month, but comes with a free lock up :)

SOLD OBD2 conversion taken from my old Corrado VR6. This is a full turn-key conversion, plug and play with no messing about for you to do such as chopping looms etc. - OBD2 inlet Manifold (both parts) and Throttle Body. - OBD2 MAF and Inlet Elbow. - OBD2 ECU - De-immobilised and remapped taking into account the Corrado 2.9 ABV engine. Performed by Stealth Racing. - All wiring looms included. Pre-modified for the Corrado fuse box. Each wire was continuity tested and painfully stripped and fed through each grommet and correct plug, then wrapped in OE loom tape. OBD2 - Lambda Sensor. IMG_2164 by Rich Perkins, on Flickr IMG_2165 by Rich Perkins, on Flickr IMG_2170 by Rich Perkins, on Flickr Unsure on what to price this at as it cost me quite a bit to do and I spent weeks (literally) making sure wiring was done properly and as factory as can be. Plus I can't find any for sale. £500 to start it off. I am open to any offer. Located in Sheffield for collection. I can post at cost.

I like this.. I need to sell my MK1 Rivage I think!

I have an OEM one, from a 1993 VR6 - Comes fully complete with the relays - Unsure what to price it at though as the rlays seem the be the most expensive part! :bonk:

Picture uploaded. Thought these would have sold quickly.

I'll let seanrodford choose the replacement, I'm sure he'll have a waiting list.

I'm going to offer my loom up to someone else who wants it - My Corrado sale fell through so won't need a loom for the time being, someone else might be in a more urgent need than me..? Note - I'm not dropping, if no one wants my space; I'll still buy it. :)

Thanks Guys, I did see that one a few times but the inconsistent adverts worried me. Either way, the sale of my Rivage fell through - I did everything she asked and more. I really fulfilled her every wish (even as far as removing the seats, pulling the carpet up; removing the heated seats relay and taking the casing off to show the relays are good). I even had a MK1 forum member come view the car for her and note every little thing in a report (this was not a nice experience and I will NEVER do this again). I literally had 20 texts and e-mails a day for around 2 weeks from her asking the most ridiculous questions. But as soon as it came to crunch time with the deposit she dropped out, very quickly. Lesson learnt I suppose. I'll be keeping the Rivage a little longer and will likely be re-advertising come Spring (end of March?) - being a convertible and all.

ABS light? £5? I'll take that! Do you have the x2 fusebox clips too, if so i'll have them also.

I have some 312mm Carriers for sale. These were removed from a MK1 TT and suitable as an upgrade for the VR6. £55 posted. Can collect from Sheffield. Picture: [ATTACH=CONFIG]83212[/ATTACH]

Double fail! :bonk:

I'll start a list: 1.P3rks 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Skim reading fail! My apologies. Looks like you have it all covered. Like I say, count me in 100%

The issue, like Goldfinger said, if you route the proper way / under the slam panel (That's where I routed my last one). You WILL NOT get the OE plug out and up through the chassis holes in front of the Charcoal canister where they ideally need to be. So you'll have to find an alternate idea or route. Possibly for those wanting to route properly you could leave the OE plug off the loom? It should only be a few wires needing to be plugged in once the cable is routed? If that makes sense?

Fine by me! Can you make the loom long enough to fit along the correct loom path across the slam panel? The last one I bought was only long enough to pull straight across which was a pain!

In that case, put my name down. 100%.

Mine was any horizontal(ish) surface. Bonnet, roof, arch tops, swage line, top of doors etc. The problem is, if it's affecting those areas now; it's likely the whole re-spray will have the same inherent problem. Is it worth the risk only for it to reappear down the line? I feel your pain, I truly do. My car had been off the road for 8 months basically refurbishing the engine and brakes. 2 weeks before it was back on the road the microblisters appeared. The following week someone vandalised the bonnet. Seriously soul destroying. What I can tell you with hindsight, I really regret losing the Corrado and wish I had stuck with it. Better the devil you know. Keep at it mate, you'll get there.

Me too, much prefer the drive of the Corrado. The MK1 has a class and charisma which not many cars can beat though! It's a very nice Corrado! If you ever sell, let me know!

What plugs will you be using to connect to the back of the headlight? A few years back someone managed to source the genuine plugs!

Had the EXACT same on my old Corrado. It happened one winter when it was cold but very moist. It snowed and the snow sat on the car for 24 hours. When the snow thawed the car was covered in the exact same microblisters. Best way to describe it is the car has goosebumps! The car had a respray 7 years prior and until this moment the paintwork was almost flawless. I went to loads of bodyshops and apparently it's moisture under the paint, well a paint layer; so under the clearcoat, colour coat or primer - Very hard to find out which one it is. The only guaranteed solution is a bare metal respray - Across the full car. If you only take the paint back to past the bubbles there is no guarantee you've fully removed it - meaning it's likely to come back at some point. It's caused by water molecules in the paint when it was applied (so small you'll never see them when applying paint) - Either via rubbish or poorly maintained equipment, contaminated paint or atmosphere. Effectively the water molecules sit under the paint, dormant - and in the right conditions, react; freeze (expanding causing the bumps) and thaw. Pop one and salty water will come out. Gutted for you. It was the demise of my last Corrado. :(